Subwoofers / Speakers

So i got a new clutch/flywheel put in my car. My mechanic put my old parts in my trunk which i forgot about. My sub doesn't have a grill and that box full of parts broke the 10" ssa dcon rubber surround and even the cone. I tried using silicone, but the sub sounds like crap! Can i get a new cone and rubber or should i start looking for a new 10"?

i need the specs on the old school 12w6... this show down will be going down in a couple days.. i'm betting my friend 10 bux that the 2 10s i'm getting are going to be louder than his 2 12s... i'll be using a self made ported enclosure... (if all goes well) he'll be using a prefab sealed enclosure... we are going to be using my amp as is has as much power as we would dare send to the speakers. both will see their rms both will see their max... i'm not sure if we are going to go over that we'll see how the max goes first... (yah i'm a wuss) we will have an uninformed judge to give us by ear results... showdown sometime this week...

im shure its on here somewhere but i searched and couldnt find it.

I know that Sound Splinter is going to have the better woofer, but its still $200 dollars. Although I really only have room for 8's. Possibly a sealed ten, but I want to port for maximum output. So that leaves the fabled question... Because I can get Polk Momos wholesale for like 44 dollars each, and if that would be the better choice... more cone area and cheaper to get louder I would do it. Although, I have always wanted to try an rl-i so I thought I would discuss it. Reason being is this (these) are going behind the rear seat of the jeep wrangler soft top. I need to have the box small and unseen under the little deck in the back. Let me know what you think. Because t…

With my components the crossover has -3, 0 and +3 dB what do most people use? I will be right at the sets rms maybe a little over but not by much.

AQ recommends what seems to be a pretty high tuning of 38hz. does anybody with these subs tell me if they can still dig pretty deep notes (i listen mostly to rap, but i also watch DVD's in my car) thanks

my buddy is getting rid of his 4 12" L7's and wan't to get 3 15"L7's.. but the amp he has is 1ohm stable and he wont get full output with that amp cause 3 dvc 4ohm subs wired in series can only go down to 2.6 ohm load!! so which amp would you guys reccommend at 2 ohms? the amp he has now is the hifonics brutus 2600 or 2800 not 100%sure! not sure on his budget but i believe he doesn't care!

hey everyone...so i just installed my new audiopipe ap15001d about a week ago and am loving it! this icon is a totally different beast now! for a single 12'' it makes things rattle like crazy! i have set the gain with a dmm for about 900 watts or so (my box is 2.5 cubes tuned to 32hz with 37.5 sq inches of port so i dont have it at the full 1000 because the box is the manufactures maximum size) but recently i have noticed some poping and cracking noises coming from the sub during certain songs. now it doesnt do it on every song and there are about 3-4 that are making it do this. (head blown off by evil pimp - decaf version along with i got 5 on it - luniz the bigpi…

i work with a guy that has of the kicker 15in.cmp subs that are sinle voice coil.and has them in a pro box. lookingfora decent amp to run these on?any of u guys give me a idea i can shoot him.sorry i dont have moe info on these subs!!

I'm looking into a 10 or 12" sub and I'm tryin to find a choice from the Fi/AA lineup. I want to run it sealed. I'm looking for great SQ with a good amount of output. I have UP TO 1500 watts available, but i can go as low as 300 watts. The Arsenal seems to be the one to look at from AA's lineup without breaking the bank. The Havoc seems to be a bit too much SPL oriented i think? From Fi's lineup, I'm strictly looking at the Q. So how does Arsenal compare with the Q. Is SQ the same with a little less output, or does the Q have better SQ? Thanks for the help.

For a fixed budget, aught I go 2- or 3-way? I was thinking that by going 3-way rather than 2-way you might be able to get a better overall balance between the differnt areas of the bandwith? Or would I be better off, just going with as good a 2-way system that I can for the same money? And for this front system (6,5" mid-basses), someone said that a 15" sub would be too large to integrate with just a pair of 6,5" mid-bass drivers. I have a WV Passat Variant (station wagon). I would have presumed that the integration was the key, rather than the size of the sub, I've seen that before, once, but I'd like some more opinions on the issue before I take a descision.

Hi guys, My Durango has 6.5's upfront with factory 1 inch tweets and 6.5''s in rear. My plan was to put new comp set up front and a midbass spkr, in rear, but after reading some peoples posts they say rear spkrs. won't be heard anyway. Is this true? If so instead of a 4 channel amp do I just run a 2 ch. and wire it to the spkrs and tweets or just the spkrs and run the tweets off the radio? Thanks for your help.

by using the re audio box calculator and attempting to account for the displacement of the sub listed on the ssa site ive come up with these specs i would like thoughts please and thank you im going for a mix of rap country and rock on probably 400 rms i figure once i get my components my midbasses would be mainly responsible for the kick is that correct where as if that is the case i would like for the sub to go low and hit the deep bass my available area is w38in h 15.5 in d 18.5 in the re box calculator says 36.5x12x13.5 with .75 for mdf would give 2.249 ft3^ that is with the ssa listed sub displacement of .14 included it also shows port height 10.5 width 1.5 length 1 …

Which sub has the capability of being louder for a daily scenario, no comps? Each sub will be run by a AQ2200d and two Yellowtop 1200d's.

I'm tired of guys posting topics about what subs are louder than anothers, it's not about what company,brand or whatever sub you have that makes your drivers loud @ all , same goes for amps. The key to have a successful system in your ride is first matching your amp to your subs, since I've been out there seeing what guys are putting in there cars I've noticed that alot of people are just slaping any'ol thing without doin the needed research to find out what they really need.. I've put together a few systems enough to know how it's done, the first thing is choosing a amplifier that suits your needs, I've seen systems with 250 watts smash all over guys with 800 to 1200 wat…

any one know what it costs to have two L7 15's '03 model repaired these days, I have a few badly in need of it?

I'll be running a pair of 12W6v2 in a sealed enclosure. I'm getting Alpine PDX amps for the system because they're great amps, I can get a great deal on them, and most importantly, they're SMALL. I'm not sure whether to run a single PDX 1.1000 to the subs, or run a pair of those amps, one to each sub. So the question is, should I just be running them at 500w each or 1000w each? It's a SQ system, but I guess LSQ is more accurate. The rest of the system (6", 3", 1" in the front, no rear stage) will be run by a pair of 4.150s.

was going to buy another 15 and have two 15's in a sealed box off 1500 rms, but been told by some guys from team kicker that my zx1500.1 can run at 1 ohm daily all day. So now i may just switch out my crossfire vr1000d for the zx1500.1. With the difference of 500 rms, should i notice an audible difference. I just can't afford the other 15 right now and i know that one 15 ported vs. two 15's sealed should get me the same output.any help is appreciated

Box for IA 187 15" I used the RE box calculator and i got this: width-28" height-21.5" bottom depth-18" top depth-18" Port height-20" Port width-3" port lenght 1-14.25 port lenght 2-9" total port lenght-28.5" Port diameter-8.74 square port area-60" Port volume internal-1710 volume displaced-1726.875 box volume-4.061ft3 frequency-33.76 cut sheet bottom-28x18 top-28x18 left -17.25x20x17.25x20 right-16.5x20 16.5x20 back-28x20 front-24.25x20 port L1-13.5x20 13.5x20 port L2-9x20 cut angle-90 These dimensions seem wrong to me. wouldn't the left and right be the same could someone please explain this for me? am i just slow or is this wrong? thanks alot.

I Just got the ca clue for my dustcaps and now i finally have 2 working XXX 15s. I jacked my friends sealed box he built for his XXX 15 in a trunk and due to size i have it facing up at an angle. It sounds loud as fudge even running at 1kw and actually keeps up to techno as compared to the ported box i had before (made for an MT so the bar wasnt set high) Anyway i sorta have 2 options interms of a box for me. I can either Try a T-line for a single 15 running off 1kw (only issues are size because its a 32" box and the top of my trunk is only 31"... i sorta want to see if a chitload of sanding may work to give me the angle i need and how well it may work for the XXX because…

Is it possible to build a fiberglass enclosure out of your whole trunk? I have 2 subs that need 6cft each but my trunk only holds 13cft .Right now my box only has 3.2cft each chamber.so it about half of the correct spec. it slams but it the biggest box i could jam into my trunk. looking for alt to keep both subs.

So i've decided to go with the 18" BTL N2, but was wondering if i should get the cooling option or just the p chamfer because in the tech area it says getting the cooling will weaken the metal- what do you guys suggest i do- im getting all other options. Its going to be for everyday play. Thanks in advance.

Has anyone come across anymore info on these subs, other than that the company is bringing 6 new lines? I'm really interested to see the changes made.

Ok so right now I have 2 12s underneath the seat in my 03 ext cab silverado. It bumps pretty damn good. The amp is a RF power800a2 and the 2 subs are mixed 1 is a 4-5yr old RF punch HX2 and the other is a 1yr old eclipse sw7200. Im wanting to switch out to something else. Ive been looking at the FIs and the REs. Itll have to be a sealed box since Im limited to space. What do you guys suggest I get? Should it be one of those 2 or something else? I do later on planning on upgrading the amp to something that puts out about 600-700w rms to each channel The other 2 subs I was thinking of were maybe some RF T1s or kicker L7s

just wanted to know how these two subs compare to each other,the icons and the dc lvl4 im goin to do a bulid for my 85 elcamino im 6'3 so.i dont have alot of room to play with!!!!! can you guys please help out that would be great thx in advance does anyo ne make boxes on here?