Subwoofers / Speakers

So yeah, even with better amp grounding causing less voltage drop on my voltmeter, and enabling my other 1/0g power line, I was no better then before. No matter if I was revving the crap out of the engine, or if the battery charger was connected. Simply, the subs don't get any louder past a certain wattage, which I'm guesstimating to be in the 600 watt range, while my amp can put out about 1000 watts per sub. And just for jokes, I played some music with the drivers side windows down, loudest was AM Kidd's - Bay Wid it, pushing 146.1db. It sounds LOUD as heck inside the car, and now it's confirmed that it's loud outside the car too Interesting, I only got 142.5db with the…

Anyone own or heard the Rainbow CMX 265 Kicks 6.5" components? I'm looking for an upgrade to my Diamonds Hex's and was what everyone thought about these. I can pick up a pair for ~350.

Check this out. A true point source 3-way driver. Be interested in how they sound. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi...16&pid=2201

I may (and I stress MAY Have a chance to test one out for about 200 shipped when I come home. Guy guerentee's it works, just the inner part of the surround looks like its been re-glued.......any opinions as what style of box?? I wanna test this sub out and if $$$ permits and they are out the amp being looked at most for this test and next install is the Sundown 3000D J

well, haven't been around for a bit so I'd thought i'd drop by and say hello. Been busy with my new job cause working in a car audio place sucks....only the owner makes the money. But just to let you on some new products, CDT has offered the 2in driver in the HD line. Uses a different coating on the cone than the ES. ES is more a delicate driver than the HD one. Its a little beast though. little over an 1in deep, should be fun in the car though. Careful on the crossover points though, from the little use I've used in a temp pod I think I like it at 1k hz and up. I'll be using it as my main tweeter with the drt-26 as my image one. I'll try and get pics up here as …

Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse. but I need help narrowing my decision down to one sub. I listen to NO rap, so big SPL isn't that important to me. I listen to alot of rock and metal, so fast, tight bass, ala Mudvayne, Slipknot, Korn, Tool, Seether.... So LSQ is what I want. Anyways, I want a single 12" sub that will probably be in a ported box. Not sure on the size, but hopefully not huge. Maybe around ~2.0 cu. ft. The amp i have is a Kicker ZX1000.1 birthed at 1152WRMS. K, here's my choices.... FI Q TC9 TC2000 TC3000 (little more than I want to spend, but if its worth it....) Which would be the best choice and why? Thanks!!

Well, I received my MJ-18 last week and I am excited. I will be using the same size enclosure that Mark used on his Sonotube sub which is 8.8 cu ft. I've used lots of mdf in the past so the main enclosure will be made out of 13ply oak plywood with mdf bracing. I'm hoping to get started this weekend on the enclosure. By the way, how do I post pics? I don't see an attachment manager.

Not breaking any new ground here, I know, but looking to get a bit more input before I do some spending. My ultimate goal is to have a great SQ substage. I was curious what the best route would be in terms of an enclosure. Sealed? Ported? Tuning? Size? Sub firing upwards? Port firing rear? SI Suggestions: Sealed 1 to 1.3 ft^3 Ported 2 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz I'm sure I'll end up staying close to these, but which end of the 'spectrum' would yield the greatest sq potential of an SI Mag D2 12"? Other information that may or may not help: Car - 1999 Subaru Impreza Wagon (sub behind rear seat, ample enclosure space) Amp - USAmps DE1000 (1000wrms+ @1ohm) Deck - Pioneer Premier DEH-…

Haha just kidding Mark, but my alternator took a dump today. I was driving along, tunes cranked all the way, and then I notice that I'm getting a lot more voltage drop on my voltmeter... kinda cool until my amps shutdown cuz the voltage dropped below 11 on the beats Long story short, it doesnt charge much at idle, and I'm hearing a whining noise coming from the alternator. I'll be taking it in on Wednesday to get it rebuilt and see what actually fried. I should be able to make it to work and back tommorrow with it, unless I can bamboozle my dad into driving me, which I doubt.

I have my maw in a 2.45net sealed encolsure, and while it gets fairly loud, i long for a bit more output. I was designing a new box for it, and came up with around 3.1ct net tuned to around 33hz. only problem is fitting a large port in there. was either planing on a single 4" aero port, or dual 3" aero ports. slot port will not work due to size. My problem is i dont want to take up my whole trunk, and the dims i have to work with are 33"wx16.75"hx14"d. i would prefer to have the ports firing toward the rear as well as the sub. Not alot of port area, but the sub is not an spl monster, and has a lower 13mm xmax. just wondering what people thought of that setup as fa…

Impact Auto Styling is a good shop imo, I've never been there, but I know one of the guys and all the installs he does are SICK and all the brands they carry are damm good imo. stoked to see someone repping SI here locally

I bought it so that my girlfriends car seat for her son could be easily removed and such. We broke up today and are completely and totally done. I think it is time for a wall in my 2003 Mazda 6. I have been looking hard at the MAW-15's but would also consider the MAW-12's. What kind of space ported am I looking at and what kind of power can I feed four of them ported in a wall? I know I can give four of the 15's atleast 2k watts but would they be ok with like 6-700 a piece?

I have modeled the enclosure and everything looks fine, but since modeling doesn

I wanna know when you are supposed to re cone a sub woofer ?? Is it kinda just a feel kinda thing like pushing it up down and guessing if it is to loose or to go on guessing how many hours the sub has been played.

Hey I'm buying some components and i have a guy trying to sell me a pair that he said were amazing but i've never heard of and can't find anything about. I was looking at a pair of crystals but if anyone knows if these are better ill probably just get them http://www.macrom.it/EN/speakers/m2/m2s.61_377.htm

Heh.. Here is what my mom was running before: Here is her new setup with the MAW-12's: I have them running on my 100.2 in my truck right now till all my parts are here for my setup... The SQ is better compared to the sealed punch s1 and gets nice and low.. Not too bad for less then 400wRMS between them as I haven't set the gain yet. Definetly a great buy for the money.

Hey guys, I am maybe looking at doing a Diy component set using the Mli-65 Mach speakers. Right now I currently have 5 1/4inch Alpine type S speakers in Q-logic kickpanels becuase my car is a 94 cavalier which only supports 3 1/2 speakers, so I bought the kicks instead, With that being said I was wondering if there is any way I could make A wooden baffle so that I could mount 6.5inch mids in the kicks? Also how would the Mli-65's work in a Diy component set? I was thinking something like Wiring the Mli-65's directly to an amp, then from the mli-65's run a inline bass blocker to the tweeters do you think that will work okay or am I better off buying a inline crossover? I …

So after some talking here on the forum, I have a Orion 2500D on the way. I was thinking of putting 2 FiAudio 18" Q's in a Jeep cherokee, box would net about 12.5 total cubes, so a little over 6 cubes per 18". Say goodbye to cargo space.... However I have seen some comparision of this brand vs. that brand... and am at a loss. The TC-sound subs look good, some say(on ROE forum) better than Fi-Q in SQ & SPL, due to higher BL. Yet I have not found many spl test on them, but wouldn't doubt it being possible. The Massive audio WC sub looks decent too, putting up 145.8 for one 12" sub on the TL, on the ROE vids... very impressive, looks kinda cheap though...? Anyways just…

The only problem I have with it is the port will be unloading about 4 1/2" away from the side of the truck. This is a 7 1/2" port mind you. I'd like to get some opinions on wether or not I should go through with it or move back to an upfiring port and move the mags on the baffle to as far on the passenger as I can get them and make the box completely rectangular.

Got it earlier this week and I'm putting it in next weekend. Now its time to give the Maw 15's a work out. Mark, you'll be one of my first stops saturday night USAmps MD1D:

which one did he send? This is a big bastard of a woofer.... build quality is top notch... shame I can't get a good pic of the coil... yet.. this should be a hard woofer to kill.... Loyd L.

This is a re-post of my MAW-10 Ported Subwoofer Project. This subwoofer performs very well, producing nice tight bass. The rear porting gives some flexibility to adjust the response by moving towards or away from a wall. The MAW-10 driver easily soaks up all the power that the small plate amplifier can deliver. This subwoofer design easily outperforms my 10" JBL PB-10 subwoofer and it integrates very well with my Fostex FE127E Sealed Bipole Project. Over all, this sub performs very well and it makes for a simple and inexpensive project. Pictures and enclosure details are available at: MAW-10 DIY Ported Subwoofer Project. Cheers, Gio.

If you could bring one back what would it be?? I will always say, round solo, Power HX2, PG Ti Elite, TC-7 based Eclipse Alum's....

Would it be possible to repost or fix the links to the images on the Mach5 Testbed site? I want to see the graphs for the test of the MJ-18 that was posted July of last year. Thanks

Came across a great deal on a pair of XXX's........now don't know what to do!! I will be using a DD Z1 for daily and weekend competitions.... Which would you choose and why???