Subwoofers / Speakers

So I was bumping my ssd yesterday on my home stereo receiver and I cranked it up a little bit to let the sub move a little bit. I realized it was making noise and immediately turned it down. The noise was like a vibrating slap, its kinda hard to describe. The slap was only audible on certain frequencies. I was probably putting a good 100 or so watts to it and I guess my receiver started clipping it. Will clipping make your sub make a noise? If its not that I was thinking maybe bottoming out? I don't really know whats causing it but I'm hesitant to put it on 800 watts.

i checked the coils and they both read 2.1 and 2.2 ohms. its a dual 2 ohm sub ive tried push in on the sub and out and dont hear a thing checked the tinsil leads looked at the cone its self and i dont know what it is... i asked about it in another topic i had going but i felt this need its own post because im sure others have had the same problem. any suggestions on what to do before i send it in for a recone should i take it apart myself first or what help me out

is there any differance in sq or spl if u mount a sub out side the box vs mounted normal. going to build a box for a xcon 18 and is it doesnt really affect it id like to show off the basket and magnet . any help would be appreciated

Right now my box is set up with sub and port firing to the rear. I am considering cutting a hole in the top for the sub and plugging the rear hole to see what it does to the sound while keeping same box size and tuning. Due to box dimensions, the only way to do it would put the sub right at the port opening in the box. It's a typical slot port so it won't be blocking the port. I remember reading somewhere that it's not ideal to have the sub close to the port if you can help it. How big of a deal is it and how much would it affect what I am trying to do? Depending on what the sound difference is will be deciding on how I build my next box.

What could describe the noise of clipping/clicking when my sub hits a low note?

The deal is anytime i listen to the music in my car at low volume my sub woofer will some times not play as loud as it should at the volume my head-unit is set at. but when i turn the volume on the head-unit up half way it will start playing like it should at that volume. head-unit - eclipse cd5030 amp - jl audio 300/2 v1 sub - sundown audio sa-10

So here is the deal. I am on my way to the goal of $900 for the zcon's. Got $650 now. Yay. Question is what ohms should I get? 2 or 1? I have a saz2500z, and I'm using the same box I have now. 4.75^3 @33hz I think. Have to double check. Have a mechman 270 alt, big 3 in 0 gauge, and am gettin a battery as soon as I get the subs. Goal is to be "loud and proud". Lol. That's what my dear friend use to say before he passed. I wanna hit like no one else has around here. That's the ultimate goal!

kinda a general question but what is a good sub to run off 400-500 wts rms. want decent sq. i will put it in sealed or ported which ever works best. budget no more than $250

Am currently decideing between getting a 15" Incriminator Audio Death Row (with the correct gain setting and knob control) or a 15" RD Audio Heavyweight (SQ model). I have 2000 ~2200 watts of rms to play with and planning to use a 4 cu.ft enclosure tuned to about 28~32 Hz seeing that the enclosure size is within both woofer's specs. Electrical is not a problem ( 230 amp HO alt., Big 3 done with double runs of 0 gauge, kinetik 1800 in the back). Am wanting to know which sub to get. I know that this may not be the best forum for the topic but i like to hear both positives and negatives of the sub(s) that am thinking of purchasing. Am wanting a sub that is musical and can p…

which of these will have better spl out of the group. going to be in a ported box. subs up ports back. i listen to all rap. 2 12'' SSA Icon (2000 RMS) 2 12'' Fi SSD (dont know what they can handle) 2 12'' Audioque SD2.5(2000 RMS) thanks for your input

So I am looking for a sub that could fit my needs. I need something around a 6" mounting depth as that would give me just over 1.5" of backspacing. I was planning for 4 sa 10's but my box wouldn't allow for it. My max dimensions for the box are 27-H x58-W x9.5-D1 x6.12.5-D2. Any help would be great.

I have a '17 Challenger I want to add some bass to as I only have the 6-speaker factory Alpine system with no subs. I'm back and forth with what I want to run as far as sub stage and need some advice. The goal is for good SQ while still getting a little SPL. I have a little over 2 cubes max in the trunk, but I'd rather use less than that. I also want a lightweight setup as I'm looking to have a birch enclosure made for it and would want the smallest setup possible that fits my goals. I wanted to try a ported single 8" but can't seem to find any good examples in trunk setups which makes me think it wouldn't be worth it, and just step up to a 10". I have about 900…

So today I was all set to order my crescendo 2000 . I had planned on a single xcon 15..... anyways. My wife needed me to run to the store and right when I was leaving a person accepted an offer on a mmats 3500.1. Now I have no plan. Are there any 15 subs that run on 2750 daily and can play in a 3cf box?

I could really use some advice here. I have a 2014 2500 Ram that I need to decide what route to take on subs and enclosure. This truck has two cavities in the floor area under the back bench seat. Fox Acoustics makes a box for it that’s molded to fit the area. It gives you 1.55 cu feet per side and it’s tuned to 35 HZ. You can do a pair of 10’s or 12’s but limited to a mounting depth of 7.25” and the magnet must be no more than 6.5” in diameter to work. They also do another box that has a center console for the rear built into this box. It let’s you use 4 10’s and the box is 4.3 cu feet and tuned to 34 HZ. Mounting depth is 7” max and the magnet diameter you can use is 7…

hey guys im wanting to do a sub setup in my 2012 nissan altima coupe. ive only got about a foot of height to work with in a small odd shaped trunk. im wanting to put in 2 10" dcons. im wanting to go ported but im really looking for some suggestions on what to do with the box since the trunk is very odd shaped. thanks any help is appreciated

I drive a Chevy Silverado 2002 extended cab, and I have the box built for 2 sundown X15s that sundown recommends on their website. My question is, will anything be effected if I put the subs on top facing the roof and the port in the middle facing my windshield. Or should I have it subs up, port up? I'm just wondering if there is a difference and what would be best. Thanks

Since I can attatch movies here and I seem to have quite a few. Anyone want to see more? I will post some as long as the mod's deem it ok. I just don't want to suck up a ton of bandwidth. Most movies are in the 3-5 meg range.

Not sure if this belongs somewhere else. . Okay, because i have a hugeee box for my sub that barely fits in my trunk of my crown vic. ya lol The sub faces upward toward the trunk. Whenever i turn up the volume my trunk piece flexes and moves like crazy. Although it doesn't sound as bad as those 200 watt shitty bass system that is just rattle. The previous owner of my car put some type of insulator in all of the cracks that would normally rattle in my car, not sure what he used. But the only thing that moves like crazy is the dam trunk hood thing itself. If i face the sub toward the license plate there would be about a minimum of 10" inches possibly more , between…

Well, I just found out today that I'm gettin an '02 Dodge Dakota quad cab for graduation After doing a little searching, there are very few possibilities of having a sub in the truck and not losing any seating space in the rear of the cab (well actually only one - MTX thunderform, but I definitely don't like the looks of it). So I plan to but a small sealed box in the middle of the floor in the rear, on the transmission hump. My question: does anyone have any experience with subs in trucks (mine in particular) and if there is any major difference in sound/output between up-firing, down-firing, forward, ect... I have read that downfiring is the way to go for sealed an…

I sold my old system to a buddy back in my home state. It's a Fi BTL 12" (2nd gen) on a hifonics brutus 2610d. He called me last night saying that he hadn't played the system in a little over a week, but when he got back in the car, the sub was hardly playing, but would occasionally kick back in for a few seconds. He said the amp stayed on without going into protect. I had him check his Subwoofer HU setting, check the RCA's, and the speaker wires connected to the amp. He said everything looked to be fine. The only thing that I can think of is that a wire came loose from one of the coils in the box and the sub is only seeing half power and only on 1 coil. Any other thought…

Noob thinking out loud here. So in a ported enclosure, is the sub having to work "less" near port frequency? The sub moves less, but what does that mean from a power handling standpoint (if anything)? Is it easier for a sub to take power near the tuning frequency? I believe I've read about "thermal" power handling. Does that mean there is another unit of measure for power handling? I could be way off, but from what I recall, it seems thermal is constant with no regard for enclosure, but another aspect of power handling does take enclosure into consideration. Hope I'm coming close to conveying what I'm trying to say here lol. Also, I hear people talking about "efficient"…

my amps turned on when i turn it on my sub turns on cuz it makes a thump .. Then when i play music it bearly moves.. it doesnt smell burned.. what is the problem? Jordan

I have been looking at the Loaded SSA Icon, the Fi Bl, SI Mag, and a couple other subs but cannot decide on a size. I want to keep most of my cargo are in my Durango, but want to ensure that my sub will get plenty loud. Will a single 12 with 1,200-1,600 watts be up to the task of getting loud or should I sacrifice a little more room and go with a 15? Also, I would like to be able to run sealed if possible but ported will be fine, retain some SQ, while feeling it in my chest, if possible. Any help would be great.

I'm toying with a few change ides for my system. My sig is what I am running currently. My two 12's are in ~1cu ft boxes, sealed. Due to space constraints, I cannot go much above that, ported or sealed. I've always been a fan of sealed enclosures for their sound quality and ability to get low. However, I am also a spl (""SQL"" really) junkie, and need more volume. I'm looking at the RL-p 12, ICON 12, and Fi Q12. Goals: fit may car, sound great, get low, and get loud. Power will be through, either, my 1000x (which meters at ~600 rms/ch @2ohms with a 50Hz sine wave), or an equivilent US Amps (depending on another issue I am having). Givin this info, and t…

I am going to build a fiberglass box that fits under my rear seats. I can fit 10s or 12s. I will probably have 2cubic feet before port and sub displacement. I was thinking of doing 2 mach 5 ixl 10s ported, or 2 diamond d6s. i currently have a 10w3 sealed powered by a 500w alpine and its not cutting it. Im looking for subs that get really loud but still sound good. I mostly listen to rap but would like something that sounds decent on all types of music. any suggestions? its going in an 03 ram quadcab. thanks.