Subwoofers / Speakers

In the market for some new subwoofers. So far i have stuck with name brand only. I now have 2 mtx 7500s in an mtx spec ported box, 1 1501d sub amp, 2 mtx 6152 2 channels, and a kinetik cap killer. I just discovered the ssa subs today and I am interested but just looking for some advice. Obviously want something louder but want to keep the current amp that i have. Thanks

I am running an Audioque 3500d.1 to 2 DD3512e d4, if I run both pos and neg wire (with 8 ga.)one direct to each woofer (parallel) will this get me a little more wattage to each woofers? Currently I am running just one pos and neg wire (12 ga.)to the box and the woofer are ran parallel from there.

I need em as cheap as possible. any help out there?

JUST EMAIL KEVIN AT [email protected] WITH " I WANT 4 OHM ANARCHYS!! " IN THE SUBJECT LINE AND BODY. This is an unofficial attempt to get a single run of 4 ohm Anarchys for the car audio crowd as well as those who want MTMs with 2 run in series for 8 ohms. Though I would be stupid to claim I convinced Kevin to stop making Maelstrom-X's with 8 ohm coils, I firmly believe I helped tip him in that direction. When Kevin 1st released the Anarchys he did so at an astonishing $45/ea to get MASSIVE attention to them, just as he initially released the Maelstrom-X 21's at a whopping $550/ea for a while, with several special offers along the way: free shipping, buy one Maelstrom-…

ill do the best i can to explain. my buddy just got some memphis subs the mclass 12s he has about 400 watts going to each the day after he got them one started smoking and then quit it still works but makes a clicking noise i took it out and took a look at it but didnt see anything wrong does anyone know what this could be?

Hey guys, I was going to write you an email but I thought that everyone might want the info. Can I get the mesurements of the 12" Mag? Depth (still the same?) Cut out (11 1/8th I beleive) Magnet Diameter & lenth Basket Diameter & lenth Weight Thanks, Justin

i got a pm from "deafdreamz" saying to contact him to order DC subs. im just asking exactly who is this guy? not trying to start a fight it just seems odd that he would PM me out of the blue saying somehting like this.

I have a PDX-1.1000 and I would really like to try a Sundown sub for the first time. Can I run the 1.1000 to a single SA10 in a ported box? Will it handle all the power from the amp?

I know I normally hate people that do this, but I need some help and time is important. So to barge into forums and throw out some questions, here goes. I'm going to buy one Fi BTL 18" sub. I am hoping to eventually get two, but that may or may not happen. I do not want to spend more than $600 to amplify the one, or two of them. I have found some pretty cheap (and at the same time nice looking) amps from sound storm laboratories, on a trusted website (sonicelectronix). The first amp has a 3400 watt at 1 ohm power handling, and 2200 watt at 4 ohm power handling. (link: http://soundstormlab.com/main/620) The second amp has a 2550 watt at 1 ohm power handling, and 1800 wa…

So I know that the output of any system is going to be install dependent. However, because I don't have the opportunity to hear any of these subs in person, I was hoping that maybe someone could tell me (read guess) which setup would be the loudest, in general. I am considering running one of the following setups in the trunk of my Sonata. (2) 12" SSDs w/ copper coils sealed with SAZ-1500D (1) 12" loaded BL ported @ 32Hz with SAZ-1500D (1) 15" Q sealed with unknown amp If I can muster the strength to spend more than I really want, I might also consider (2) 12" Qs sealed with 2 SAE-1000Ds. Basically I have decided (arbitrarily) that I would like to play somewhere in the mi…

Is a true 1500 watts too much for a single Fi Q 18" to handle with the BP option? I was trying to decide between going this route, or going with a dual 15" setup with a 2500watt amp...I'm leaning towards the 18 since it'll be cheaper and more electrically friendly. (vehicle is a dodge magnum)

i measured my truck dimensions for where sub will go. ( i cant fit that 15 inch so i guess im going 12 well with my space requirements i can either fit the sub firing downwards or firing forwards/backwards. the problem is its a tite fit so if i build it to downfire it wont fit if i face it forwards, forwards wont fit firing downwards. which way should i face it? what differences will forwards or downwards have. i refuse to face it upwards becuase my luck ill drop something right on it. and i cant find any nice grills for high excursion subs.

i ordered a 15" magnum d2 but i didnt get a box yet. my friend says i could use his box. its a 15" and its ported but its only like 2 cubic feet. i do plan on gettin another box but how will the magnum sound in this box

i want to get rid of my little 10" type-rs and go with one 15" sealed theres too many options out there, so to help me narrow things down.. whats the general favorite for SQ, 15", and sealed to spec?

Hey you owners, lol. I need to know what is the mounting depth of JUST the magnet itself. The website says 8" for the whole subwoofer but i am designing my wall and need to draw out the magnet so i can properly run allthread without running into the magnets. So... just the magnet itself, what is the depth? Thank you.

I currently have 2 Sundown E-12s in the Trunk (Dual 4ohm) wired down to 1ohm on the amplifier. (1700rms at 1ohm) I am going to pick up my old Kicker CVR10s (Dual 2ohm) and put them in my backseats... Is there ANY way I can hook up the 2 10s to the amplifier for added bass? It would only be for a day or so, but just for fun. I just want to know how I should wire the 2 10s to get the most out of my amp. Thank you!

I'm thinking about replicating the sub enclosure created by Jmelan over at DIY mobile audio for my 2002 4Runner. Does anyone foresee any difficulties or performance issues for the RL-i8 with this type of enclosure in a side-firing alignment? I wonder if a larger driver (Fi Q 10/12, ICON 10/12, RL-i10) wouldn't be in my best interests.

I thought cabin gain was supposed to make a sub sound louder and play lower, yet with my doors closed and windows up, it is signifigantly quieter than with a window down or door open, especially in the low bass region. FYI, I have an audioque LW8 (awesome sub btw) in a 1 cu. ft. enclosure with 16in^2 of port tuned to 35hz behind the driver's seat of a 1998 ford ranger extended cab facing backwards. It seems like there is some sort of cancellation going on; in my HT I could help this by adjusting the phase, but i've never heard of a phase adjustment on a car amp. Anything to fix this, or am I doomed to rolling the windows down when I want to bump? I've already tried rev…

well i blew a voice coil in a 7 year old power hx2 12 with a brutus 1600d. wondering if i should just buy a new sub or recone this one, also i cant find a recone for it. any advice will be appreciated. thnx in advance

This is a picture of my neighbors trunk, the car is a 1990 impala i have a smiler car and i was thinking about a setup something like this just with four or six 15's or four ported 12 if i can.. what do you guys think???

Ok, so I'm about to have some graduation money and I'm thinking about starting my new setup. I would like to go with a single 10" this time though, and go ported still I believe. I think the amp of choice will be an orion 1200D. So let's say I have a max of $350 to spend on this sub. My box right now is 2cubes net, I'm not sure how much more space I could get, I could go longer but I would have to go down in how tall the box can be. so just keep all those factors in please.

I'm wanting to build an enclosure for my 15" Ascendant Audio Arsenal. I haven't decided between ported or sealed yet, but I was looking for some suggestions on size for a sealed box or size/tuning for a ported box. About the only thing I've considered is I'd like it to be reasonably small as possible. I would also like tight, punchy, controlled bass as I mainly listen to rock. I sometimes listen to rap/hiphop/bass/techno (you know, the boomy music) every once in a while so I'd still like it to be able to hit. Can you give me a few recommendations on box size? I created a thread here, but it seems to have not been noticed http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showto…

Hey everyone, I just wanted to get some opinions on these speakers for my fronts (6 1/2") and rears (5 1/4"). http://www.ebay.com/itm/HITRON-5-25-5-1-4-SPEAKERS-4-WAY-PAIR-300W-HS-5254-CHEAPER-THEN-KENWOOD-ALPINE-/120972470424?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item1c2a856898 Now before anyone says anything about the "max" power RMS rating, I'm not looking for that. I'm just looking to replace factory speakers without any hook ups to amplifiers or anything of the sort. The reason being is that the ones that I have now with the factory radio already play distorted, and I'm almost 99% sure that when I install a new HU in that they will pop. If anyone has any other suggestions or spea…

I have a pair of Infinity Kappa 60.9 components. The left tweeter fried after a week. I cannot figure out why. I was feeding them around 80 watts and they seemed to shine. Anyway I am looking to replace the tweeters with something better. I need something large to fill the huge 2 3/8 inch mounting hole from the infinitys. and it needs to be 4 ohm. I am going to cross it over at 3.5khz. Please help me find something. My budget is tight. I cannot go over 25 bucks a pop. I found these and they seem to fit the bill. Anybody have anything to say about peerless? http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8500 Also keep in mind. I am in college, which is worse tha…

Im planning on putting a mj 18 in a 5 ft^3 ported box tuned to 30 hz. The sub would be running of a infinity amp gettin about 400 rms at 4 ohms. Anyone know if this setup would thump? Looking to get rid of my old 10w0's and move onto a bigger sub.