Subwoofers / Speakers

So, i've been a dj for about 15 years and i've never had a decent soundsystem in my car, i guess because of all the money i've spent on cds and records. finally, i have the expendable money to throw at a little sub and speaker combo, but i'm going to start with the sub. Anyway, I have an Alpine CDA-9856 in an 03 Acura 3.2 tl type S, I'm not going to compete with this soundsystem, so i was wondering what the recommendations would be for a 10'' sub, and amp for around 500$. COuld my budget be lower for similar performance. Since i have worked a long time with audio equipment, i know that often times 500$ is right at the high level of lower end stuff, thats why i chose th…

I am looking for Experienced suggestions and/or advice. I currently have a Kicker L7 15 but I want to upgrade to a louder Subwoofer but with good Sound Quality. I would like to upgrade to 1(one) 2,200+ RMS sub, but the most important for me is SQ (sound quality). I mostly listen to hispanic music (in case this helps). I'm completly unsure of what's best, Please feel free to recommend any Sub that meets my demands. Thanks to all in advance.

Ok Im torn between 2 diff. subwoofers. I have a 2010 civic coupe with about 8 cubes of trunk space i believe. I'm primarily looking into either a single FL Fi Q 15 or a Ascendant Audio Havoc 15. I'm planning on running this sub on a SAZ 1200D that im pickin up next month, electrical will be upgraded soon (big 3 bigger alt possibly & better batt.) & enclosure would be built later most likely roughly 4.5 cubes @ anywhere from 28 - 34 Htz. I cant decide which sub to get, any other suggestions would be appreciated. What I want are 1. Single sub 2. take roughly 1k rms without exploding into a fiery mess

Hey guys, so I'm looking for some pro input. Mids/Highs - EJS Audio Full Size Horns under the dash *powered by Linear Power 2202 (mod)@ 110 x 2 @ 4 ohm load. Midbass - Undecided at this point, might even be running ID8v1 or v2's in the doors *powered by Linear power 3002 (mod) @ 175 x 2 @ 4/8 ohm load. Subs - This is where I'm a little stuck. I'm trying to snag as much cone area as I can because we'll be in the trunk running two drivers. I'm probably going to be running 15's because I've got 3-5 cu ft to work with and I'll be running sealed. I know that running one driver ported will get me more output, but some music I listen to has very fast bass transit…

hello everyone, im looking into getting some new subwoofer(s) i either want to get 2 12s or 1 15 i want to tune it around 38-41 hertz and my budget on subs not including amp is about 900 dollars so everyone throw in their opinion on what i should get!

I'm stuck on what 12" sub i wanna buy for my truck. This will be my first system. Im trying to decide between Skar VVX 12, Sundown SA 12, and the Gcon 12. Ive heard great reviews for all of these. But i just cant decide. They all sound GREAT. I guess the deciding factor will be how durable and reliable they are on top of what other peoples opinions are. Any advice would be great!

I have been scouring the net for a couple days, searching every form of the phrase "Subwoofer design software" and have found nothing but enclosure design programs and port length/size calculators. Anyone know of anything that would help me? Delving into the other side, designing and building my own subwoofer. I don't have the capability to press cones or mold baskets, nothing huge yet. But I'd like to choose my own magnets and construct a motor structure and my own voice coils. I would prefer a graphics-based type of program. And no point in telling me I can't pull this off.. maybe true but I'm the type that will try it anyway and eff with things until I'm defeated or I …

After I get moved into my new house, and have some cash again. I'd like to get a sub back in my truck. I've been waiting for the Audiomobile's to pop up, but I'm not sure when they will be available and may actually cost more than I want to spend, since the AE X's will probably never be around again, I'm trying not to spend more than 300 on a 12/15, but I will if the right sub comes along. I'm hoping you guys can help point me in the direction of a sub. I have some specs in mind that seem to be what I'm looking for or close too. But, I don't have enough information on the subs I've been looking at. What I'm looking for is a sub that is efficient, accurate, has great sq…

Hello everybody I'm trying figure out what would be a good spl subwoofer that i can throw in my 2003 chevy tahoe i got 1k saved for subs cant fig out should i go with 4 12's 4 15's OR 2 18's I only got a 48"x48" space because im keeping the rear seats in taking out the tired row only 48x48 i can do 6 12s or 4 15's maybe 3 18s If i wanted to..... So the dilemma is what brand i wanting to spend any were from 350-400 per a sub Fi BTL Re audio even tho there not like they used to be soundqubed DD sundown

I'm looking through my subs owner's manual, and I can't find the displacement. What is displacement represented as? I've Googled it every way possible and still have come up with nothing. They are Clarion SW1051's. Sorry for the noob question.

Has anyone tried painting the cone of a subwoofer? I know that you cant really use regular paint because of adding weight to the cone and changing the t/s parameters. But is there anyway to do this, I am just trying to completely black out the sub. So you dont see the company logo. I want a clean black sub. Any opinions would be appreciated. I dont want to go with sharpie option either.

I just had a mtx 9512-44 go out on me. Pretty sure it's the voice coils. I've had it for nine years (and its taken many trophies) do u guys know if mtx will repair it? Already ordered fi bl's to take its place, but would still like to have this sub. Sentimental value I guess.

I have a 2006 KIA SPECTRA SX sedan. I have HAT Unity U-61 powered by an Arc Audio KS 300.2 amp I have a TREO RSX 1600 amp who is subless. TREO RSX 1600 312 x 1 @ 2 ohm 600 x 1 @ 1 ohm I am looking for a subwoofer that can handle Jazz music? I am not sure which subwoofer to go with that amp. I am not sure if I should do Fi Audio, Incriminator Audio SSA, Boston Acoustics, Image Dynamics or Arc Audio. I am looking for something for under $200 because of financial reasons. I am not sure if I woudl do sealed or ported plus I am not sure if I should go 10 or 12. Thank you.

My buddy wants me to put a system in his boat, and I'm looking for a sub any suggestions?

My buddy wants me to put a system in his boat, and I'm looking for a sub any suggestions?

Would it be smart to attach some sort of gasket to make an airtight seal between the box and subwoofer? If so what would you use?

So yesterday I was coming back from college and on the way I was blasting my music like everyday. 10 mins before I got home, I noticed there was no lows No burning smell at all. Which was weird... Today I checked and the subwoofer is not playing. I checked the speaker wire connections, nothing out of place. So I decided to use my DMM and read the coils, since I pushed the cone and it does not look or feel blown at all. I used my DMM and both coils give me no reading. 0.L on the DMM. I checked the coils and nothing seems burned, broken, out of place or moved. I have no idea what could have happened to the sub. Any ideas?

Should one sundown z.15 v.1 be loudder than two kicker cvr 15s? Or should i go with two 15" kicker cvxs Powered by a massive n4 nanoblock 2000rms Going in a trunk of a buick regal 2000

Hi, im new here was wondering if you could help me with some ideas for subs. My current setup is 2 12inch Sony 1300w at 200 watts rms a piece. I'm looking to upgrade to a better system i want SPL while not sacrificing sound quality. The only thing is i don't want to have to upgrade my alternator I have been looking around at subs such as the FI SSD ,FI X(with BP power option)x2, DD1512,SSA DCON, and Audioque SDC2.512. I think i am also leaning towards getting 2 subs instead of one because i don't know what rms vs surface area does for SQ/SPL. I listen to Rap/rock if anyone can help me out that be great. If you have other subs you wanna throw in the mix that's cool to i am…

Hi, I have a Kenwood amp KAC-9104d. According the manual it max's 1800W 1 ohms >900W 2 ohms 900 W 4 ohms 500 w I want new subwoofer's since I found out the ones best buy recommended are too weak for my amp, and after hearing kicker is a pretty weak brand. I'm not sure what type of box I want yet, all I know is I want great sound quality and some good SPL would be nice too. Any recommendations are much appreciated. p.s. I listen to lots of rap/borderline rock

whats up guys, been debating on what sub/amp combo I wanna go with, thought I decided on 2 soundsplinter 10's with an alpine pdx 1.1000 amp, but then I realized I might not want that much bass.. I listen to probably 75% rock, 25% rap, I want something with great sound quality, but I guess when necessary I wanna be able to turn it up and feel it when I listen to rap.. dunno if I should go with 2 10's, one 12", or maybe one REALLY good 10"... I have heard of subs like the JL 10w7 sounds really crisp, but when you want it to be loud, it can sound like 2 12"s almost.. what sub does SS, SSA, etc make that would be the equivalent of the 10w7? You think in my case one really so…

I understand that a given sub in a given enclosure does not remain a "*" ohm speaker. The actual impedance is dependant on the frequencies being played. After watching the resistance dance around on my multimeter, I was wondering if there is a method to stabilize the impedance closer to what the woofer actually is and salvage some of that lost power from my amp.

So I just moved my Pioneer sub into my BMW 328i. Same enclosure, same amp. New power/ground wires, new rcas, new speaker wire. The headunit is BMWs factory and the amp is getting signal from a LOC that is connected to the BMWs factory amplifier. The subwoofer does NOT sound the same anymore as expected. But the problem is that its not close to as loud as it was on the expedition. They told me the BMW has a well-sealed trunk, could this be the reason why Im somehow not feeling the bass anymore? I also had to lower the gains a bit (from what I had it on the expedition) and the sub gets hot faster and my trunk has been getting that burning smell constantly since I installed …

hey does anybody know where to get baskets, motors, cones, and coils? i know there are companies over seas that are cheap. does anybody know of a place i can order stuff?

Hey just have to say this forum is awesome. I have been thinking about trying to make my own driver to put in a transmission line box. I could not find any places that sell parts to build your own driver. I