Subwoofers / Speakers

ok, the difference in sound is pretty obvious, but whats the technical difference between making a sq and a spl sub? i mean if all speakers and subs work by the same principles, how is one more accurate than another? just always wondered that , thanks

just as the title states... seen a few threads about the mach 5 and was just wondering how it compares to the icon

my friend works for a alarm system company and they also handle surround sound systems and he wants to get some 10's for his truck and he can get these db drive speakers for cheap from the company order, anyone ever heard or delt with them before?

Okay so, I'm getting this gcon 15 and i always here my uncle nem talking about the 15 and the surface are of the the cone and the area of space in the car and stuff like that but what does it all mean i dont understand. like he says his 2 18 xcons would be perfect in my van because of the room for the sound but can someone explain to me what that means?

My uncle ordered a four channel for his bike and gave me an arc audio mini amp ( http://www.arcaudio.com/p/ks-125-2-bx-mini# ). Does 70 RMS @ 4 ohms x 2 and 125w @ 2 ohms x 2. So now I'm looking for a good set of 5.25 component speakers. I have a 2001 Buick lesabre and that's wat size comes stock in the front doors. For substage I'm going to be running a 18" SSA Icon sealed off on approx 1000 watts. I want crisp highs and warm mid bass that will blend well with my sub stage. Looking for good suggestions on a set in the 100-150 dollar range. My uncle has all Polk components in his truck and bike and think they ssound good. Any opinions on them?

I just built a 4th order BP box for a Panasonic 10" woofer, and it sounds terrible. Not "bandpass" bad, just designed wrong. The frequency response is WAY off. Here is what I have: Panasonic 10" t/s Vas: 42 L Fs: 30.0 Hz Qts: 0.37 I input that into the calculator on carstereo.com and came up with: Volume front = .397 ft^3 Volume rear = .533 ft^3 Fb (front side) = 58.3 Hz Frequency response ~ 35-90 Hz Added sub displacement and port displacement to the front and rear volumes and built the box. Due to the small area, I could only get a 3" port into the enclosure. Maybe that is too small? Calculated a 3" x 12" long port. Anybody tell me what to do different????? Thanks! …

i just want to c what other people think 18 ssd fully loaded or 18 Q no BP

OK, I know that this topic will piss off 95.9999% of you guys, lol. But am using a AQ2200D and wanting to know which sub would be most suited for its intended purpose. Am deciding between the IA DR or DP. Am just wanting to know which would be most suited with the power. Am using either for a daily driver that sounds good but can get loud. Thanks

Hello everyone, I'm curious about 12s that could work great in a mid sized ported box 1.5 cubes - 1.75 cubes each powered by a Sundown SAZ1500D. So far what caught my eyes is a pair of DC Level 3 12s or a pair of Sundown SA 12s.

Looking to upgrade front stage with some new components. I have it narrowed down to two: SA-6.5CS, or Focal 165A1-SG. Have heard nothing but good things about both brands but have no personal experience with either. Any feed back? I know Focal makes an awesome product but is their lower end line as impressive as their expensive stuff? I'm looking for something that will sound good playing a variety of music. Will one be more versitile than the other? Or am I better off just flipping a coin?

Hi i just installed a hifonics bxi 2608 im running it at 2 ohm at 1700 watts. my box is tuned to 34 hz @3.5 cubes. my bl is over extending itslef so i turned down the gain. My question is what should i have the low pass filter set at right now i got it at around 75 i think thats too high. it kind of sounds messy. and if i turn it down could i put the gain a little higher?

Well, I currently have two TC-7's being pushed by a RF 1000-1db. They are in a ported box, which I don't know the tuning of, but each chamber (to rec. specs) has a 13'' long 3'' wide precision port. I am thinking about getting a single Fi, so I can retain loudness, but gain quality. But then again, do you think I would be best off sealing my subs? I listen to mainly rap, but I want more quality then I currently have. I drive a 2002 honda civic si hatchback, so it is a TINY car, and gets loud easy.

Im looking at some of the Audio Pulse (www.audiopulse.com) subwoofers and am just curious if anyone here has ever had one or knows somebody with one. Im just curious as to the quality and checking to see if there worth using or not? These are the ones im specifically looking at getting here.

yep...picked up an old eclipse ti 12...needs reconed. any help? not for sure what i wanna do with it...any ideas? lemme know... and yeah, it's a double post for those who don't go to the soundsplinter forum..lol.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

If I had these speakers. The Alpine SPR-13C5-1/4" 2-way Type-R Series Speakers with these numbers Type-R 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 540 watts per pair / 270 watts each RMS: 180 watts per pair / 90 watts each Impedance: 4 ohms Hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround 1" Swiveling silk ring-dome tweeter Frequency Response: 70 Hz-27 kHz Sensitivity: 86 dB Top Mount depth: 2-3/16" 1-year Sonic Electronix warranty Will the sax 100.4 from sundown blow these speakers just wondering. Blew my last set of speakers and have these just sitting around?

Ok, before i purchase these, let me know if you think it's gonna be loud enough and reasonably par sound quality. The sets i've chosen are TOTALLY different so you might go wtf for a sec as i even did when i made these choices, hehe. Front stage- 6.5" components Rear stage- 6.5" midbass drivers Chosen- Front - Alpine Type X Reference Rear- Audiobahn Midbass Driver Why? I am running 4KW of power, normally about 2-2.5 for longterm daily. I just need something louder that doesn't sound like garbage basically, nothing spectacular that just makes your heart stop quality, nothing like that. I have a Sundown 100.4 already. I was looking at the reference and Pro line of these Typ…

I recently burnt one of the leads on my sub. is soldering the wires back together the best way to fix it? if not what is the best way?

I have one Revo that should be here Friday and want to get another as soon as I can, I was going to put each sub in its own ported camber. Plans for the box size it 4.75 cu.ft. after port and sub(when I find out what that is) at 30 hz. I was wondering the diferences of port placement would make a big difference. The ports would either be placed one at each end of both comming out in the middle next to eachother. These are going into a dodge ram extended cab (rear seat gone of course). The subs and ports fireing up. If anyone has any suggestions with the box size or port I would love to hear them. Also do these subs like lots of port? Is 70 cu.in to big for each sub…

I'm still tossing ideas around and was wondering which would work best in the space I have. I have 44"w X 30"d X 18"h to work with could be a little taller but was hoping to keep it close to 18" or less. I was wondering if 2 gcon 15"s would have more output than 1 18" icon. I'm pretty sure I'm going to run a crescendo bc 2000d at 2 ohms. What do you guys think would have more output? It will be in a 03 ford explorer.

I am going to make my first attempt at a fiberglass enclosure for a single DCON 10. It will be right near the ideal 1.25 cu. ft. But it is a stealth install in a side well in the hatch area of my wagon. I actually use my cargo space. The question comes in terms of ports. I would like to go with aero ports for ease of use. My box won't be very deep so port length will be difficult to attain and keep tuning in the low 30's. What are some thoughts or recommendations? Could I go with Two 2" aeros? Final length would need to be about 12 total inches so two 6" long ports? A single 3" would need to be about 15" long and is not possible. Would two 3" ports be better?

Sup fellas, i think i might have a big problem, was inspecting my subs (2 fi btls 18"s) and noticed tiny tears on one subs spider, 3 of them 2-3 millimeters ea. when playing the subs hit hard, who knows how long they've been there, but i know i dont want them there, could i use some epoxy or super glue as a temporary fix, i know that they might need reconing (bought them the end of 08) but they both still bang hard plus they the old ufo model so i dont know if they even make recones for those any more. cant get new subs till after christmas so i need help.

Well after a lot of talking with Shizzz and screwing up not being able to fix the box in the trunk (and realizing I cant fit the box and the amp and the batts back there) I am thinking I am best to go to a single woofer. Now I was reading around and it looks like a single Fi BTL 15" can be used in a 3 cuft box. I am going to be throwing a SAX-3500D at a woofer by the way so I will be over-powering almost (I think) any woofer out there. But after talking to Shizzz some more he says that he recommends the level 5 12 at a minimal 2.5cuft box. I can do that seeing as the original box was about 5.5-6 cu ft. But wondering what would be best on the smaller box size -- either a B…

i dont know what ive been hearing is true or not, but, the Entasi woofer-same or not the same as a mag 12? besides cosmetics of course al

This is a picture of my neighbors trunk, the car is a 1990 impala i have a smiler car and i was thinking about a setup something like this just with four or six 15's or four ported 12 if i can.. what do you guys think???

how safe would i be overpowering the mj-18 from mach 5 by 200wrms. what would be a safe amount?