Subwoofers / Speakers

someone told me to drill ~1" hole in the back of my kick to "vent" it into the floor...would it be better to do this or to actually port in to a certain freq? and if ported is better, what should i tune it to?

Aaron (denim) was gracious enough to give us this forum, so thank him for this. We here at Stereo Integrity are about helping you with any of your audio inquiries. We strive for nothing more than sonic excellence at incredible volume levels, and moderate volume levels. Be sure to check out our web site, www.stereointegrity.com , for all of the latest updates and news releases. Please post anyquestions/concerns you have about any Stereo Integrity product. Marty, Jacob, and myself will do everything necessary to help you out. And remember to try and have fun. Do not post questions that should be addressed via email. All such topics will be promptly deleted. Those…

How much longer till they start making there subs again and letting people like me buy them?

I have the Tweets and Mid-Range already. I was planning on using them with the 4x Vifa PLs I already have, but considering the Usher Mid-Bass a bit. Click on pictures for more information: Tweets Mid-Range Mid-Bass Any opinions? Crossover points/slopes suggestions? I think it might be kinda unique to tell people when they ask that my front stage is all "Usher Audio" and see the puzzled look. Although "Vifa" Mid-Bass would get the same look from most people I'm sure. The Hammer

I got the CDT's 62 comps and one of the woofers has some tinsel lead slap. I was going to put some small feltish sort of pads on there to prevent this. Do you think it would affect the woofer to the point where it would change the drivers ability to to play?

which sub gets lower IYO...

lookie here! i think i creamed my shorts... 4 of the 4kw's and 2 of these..hehe wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I've been looking into the Infinity Reference 6000cs and the Polk db6500's. Anyone hear anything good or bad about either of these component sets? Any alternative suggestions for 6.5"-6.75" comps in the $200 range? Thanks, Ed

just wondering if anyone has heard these yet, and what motor is in it? I would love to test this sweet thing out

I just purchased a 12" Magnum..Its got the original claw basket. Now I was gonna use this in a spl application. What kinda power do people run these off of for comps? I was plannin on putting it in a ported box tuned to 40hz. Size unknown.

I will be looking for 5.25's and a 4 channel amp, what do you guys think i should get? Can be more than 100, just the less the more i got for other things.

I think I might just do it when they come out.

for those of u that have an older magnum that need recones, are we helpless with it?

My buddy called me today and is coming over tomorrow and wants a 10 for under 100 bucks. Its late, 1"20 A.M., and I dont really have alot of time to look around, I was thinking a Kicker CompVR or a RE RE. Anyone else have anything else that fits the bill, cheaper the better. Probably is seeing no more than 150 watts, and has approx. .75cuft sealed box.

ever since installing my comps. The sub's performance has taken a drastic turn for the worse. I set the gains correctly (w/ dmm) givin it around 600w, increased the bass volume a lil on the HU. When everything was all said and done, the subwoofer did not get as loud (my ears dint get used to the sub my rear view mirror did not shake at all like it used to) , and the sub did not play as low as it used to before installing my components. i played daz dillenger's "my system" and on the reallly low parts, my sub didnt play anything!! I felt no rumbling like i used to. I checked all the crossovers, filters and everything, but they were fine. I swear... either i fix this or im…

http://www.stereointegrity.com/Magnum12.html

Do you have to put it in the oven? Cuz the glue around that thing is super super hard like fiberglass, and i can't cut it off/

I had planned on getting a caprice but I don't think that is gonna happen any more so I am stuck with my existing car, a 95 Acura Integra. So I plan on getting a new sub but only one. And I want to use my existing amp, a Viper 2500.1 (1500x1@4ohms or 2500x1@2ohms), well because I have it and I don't want it sitting collecting dust. So I am looking for a single sub that will hump like two and take massive amounts of power. And to make it even more difficult, one that will operate at one of the above ohmages. And I do not have a problem setting gains really really low to compensate for a woofer that can't take as much power as I have. New or old.

i just put in some pioneer 6x9s in my car and they sound like a cross between a subwoofer with no crossover and a tweeter..... no bass at all either. the factory speakers sounded much better. what a waste of money

I have a 99 mustang with a 12 D2. Right now it is in a prefab box that came out to 1.56 cubes before displacement. I am very happy with this setup but I think it could be better. I want increbible output with the best sound quality. Would it be advantagious to get a new box built even if I stayed sealed? I am worried that I box around 2.0 cf tuned to about 28 hz is going to be too big to fit in my tiny little mustang trunk. Should I stick with the box I have or would I benifit from a new box? Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated. Thanks

WOOT!! Everything is here... (all clickable thumbnails) What it is: RE XXX6.5's Vifa 1" Neodymium Textile Tweeters Pheonix Gold Tantrum 400.4 (Might consider upgrading to PG Titanium 500.4, what do you guys think?) Coustic XM6 3 Way Crossover Going into... http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94516 Also, check out my new toy http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.p...7372#post877372 WOOOOOOT! NG

About half of my active setup arrived in the mail today. The tweeters are supposed to come later today and then some more wiring tomorrow, the mids friday, and the coustic crossover on saturday I hope. FEDEX really beat the chit out of my packages. I was kind of scared at first. Now, without further ado, stick around for more

i was setting the gains for my front stage today by using a 1khz test tone, the test tone was only for the left channel, i forgot to disconnect the speakers from my amp , so after i was done setting the gain, i smelled the smell and i was scared. I put on a lil Santana to test my newly set gains out, and it seemed that the left channel was noticably quieter than the right channel, enough where the right side, overcomes the left. the right speaker still works, gets loud, just not as loud. Is my speaker screwed?? or is there a way to get it loud again?

Hey I have done a lot of research and have heard that the soundsplinter RL-Ps are amazing for both sound quality and sheer power. I am looking for a setup that will bump and will be heard by people outside of the car, yet will still have good sq. I do not want it to bump so much so that my head is going to hurt after 10 minutes though. I was thinking possibly 2 12 Rl-Ps, but didnt know if those would be too loud for what I am looking for. Maybe even 1 15 Rl-P would work too. I would also like to know which type of box would work well with these subs? What type of amplifier would work well with these different setups? Again I want a system that can have some serious power …

First off I want to start out by saying a big Thank You to Nick for the oppurtunity to demo the proto. Now on to business. There is a defect (if you call it) in this proto. Nick can explain it better, and has in other threads. but the VC makes a weird noise at high excursions do to a bad chrome job and it leaking onto the pole,etc. But this will not be presant in the 15s when produced. So as to performance of the driver, I was expecting a bit better than my current Mag but to my surprise it was way more than just a bit better. Taking the VC problem out of the equation, this driver is much louder than the previous Mag. On my alpine HU it reaches the loudness of my Mag at …