Subwoofers / Speakers

Today I put in some pioneer a series 6.5" in the back of my car. Tomorrow i'm planning on ordering the 4" models for the front. I'm running them of the 18w head unit. I have a sub already and was wondering if it would be worth it to buy something like 150hz bass blockers for the front speakers. I didn't know much about car audio when I went and bought my head unit and it doesn't have a high pass filter.

Is there any easy way to get rid of small dips and valleys in the surface of a fiberglass box besides just gettin' at it with a sander? I just about have the whole thing covered with Bondo body filler and am working it over with my Mouse sander. I notice there are some small dips or valleys here and there (actually all over). If I try to get each individually, it will take a lot of time and I am concerned with the body filler hardening before I am done. Should I just mix each batch in very minute quantities? Is there an easier way that I am not noticing? Anyhow, back to the sander it is. 90 degrees outside and I am in a garage with no fan. Damn addiction.

Its for spl only. I have about 6.5 cubes to work with, its for 2 15'' d2s. I want it ported and tuned to 45 hz. i want massive port area and have 14 inches of depth to work with. Any help will be appreciated, i want to put up some big numbers for SI!

just ordered a kx550.3 and i need some suggestions on a sub. if the maw's were still in production , id snag one up , but i decided to downsize too late. so i need some suggestions for a 12" that will work well in both sealed and ported enclosures being fed 350-400wrms @ 2 ohm that will get decently loud and not sound like poop. budget is around $100 but ill spend a bit more if i have to get something quality. i was looking at the RE SR , but i really couldnt find enough reviews on them. thanks in advance.

So I have read around a little and I have talked about it before, I need a mid-bass/woofer that can do 50hz-100hz/120hz just as loud and viscous as my 15" xcon can hit 30-50hz. I have run across the Aurasound NS10-513-4A 10" which seams like it may work, but I want more opinions. It can be of any wattage, it needs to be 10" or smaller I'd prefer a 8" but i'll do 10" if it is what it will take to hit those db's, and the enclosure whether it is ported or sealed needs to be less than 1 cu ft. I want great punch, I want to feel the drums in my chest, my old sub (kove armageddon) could hit these notes at around 135db and i miss the feeling of it.

Bought a pair of Polk momo's and a crappy 1200watt Sony amp off Cl (100 bucks for everything), installed them they sound... ok i guess haven't heard a "Good" setup so I don't really know what to expect. Issue i have is the box they came in is terrible, the kid wired the subs directly to the amp and there is a massive hole where the wire terminal SHOULD be (Covered it up with duck tape). The box is rough I kinda wanna upgrade to a new one, i'm not familiar with whats best, some info i found said they do best with .88cu enclosures. I don't have the ability to really build my own, since apartment lifestyle doesn't afford that luxury. Should I try and get a sealed one? o…

Well my IA40.1 is on the way and just wanted to know dose anyone know the spec of the new 18

I'm going to be doing an install in a freind's 08 Suburban, and he wants a "false floor" built for the rear cargo area. The false floor will house the amplifier (Rockford 25 to life power 1000) and wiring. He wants either a single 12", dual 10", or dual/triple 8" subs, but he wants the false floor to be used as the sub box. He doesn't want to have to deal with a massive sub box in the cargo area. My question is, if the false floor is built 6-8" high, will it be "thick" enough for a proper sub enclosure. I have plenty of space to work with length/width-wise, but the depth is going to be the problem. I guess I'm trying to ask if a shallow box will work ok, as long as I have…

I'm working with 300 x 2 @ 4 ohms. Anyone want to piece something together for me? Single 6.5" mid is preferred, I'll be making baffles for my doors. Maybe four tweeters? (Two per channel) + Crossovers and all that, thanks guys.

going to put 2 in my car and was wondering what you that of it and what i can expect

I have installed a new pair of Havoc 15" subwoofers in my truck, powered by two SAE-1000D amps bridged and notice a distinct lack of dynamic range, or ability to hit "peaks". It's almost as if it's built to play test tones, only. As soon as I play rock music at relatively high volumes, the fast bass notes and kicks clip and distort. It's not very loud, but I turn the gains down till it no longer clips, as any good car audio enthusiast would. Now it's quieter than quiet, and it just barely wants to clip if a loud enough drum comes along. Now if I play a bass mekanik CD I rattle store windows and do mini-hair-tricks at 20Hz. No clipping, sounds good. Switch to rap or …

Well, just got a new demo vehicle for the business. A 04 Alero....yeah sounds like a grandma car but its the coupe and is quite fun. I hope it has a good alty that can handle the system. But the trunk it kinda small. Any idea on how to mount the subs in order to get two 12in subs in there or should i just stay with one 12?

I have 2 Rockford Fosgate rfr3110's and Im planning on building a ported box for them both but I want to know the difference between separating the 2 subs to one sub per chamber (2 ft^3) with 1 square port each OR having both subs in the same chamber (4^ft3) with 2 same sized ports. Basically, I have the size and dimensions of the box ready to draw up, but should I have a divider between the 2 subs in the box?

what are the general opinions on the RE SX or the SXX 12's ? ] what are they similar/ worse/ better than for around the same price range?

I'm having trouble finding info on this particular sub. I have searched a bunch of forums and tried Googling, also. I'm not real sure weather it is a tc9 or tc7 based sub; and knowing the many variants of those models left me skeptical of considering an appropriate sized enclosure based on another sub. I originally figured this is a TC9 variant, so I've been planning a ballpark figure of 1.5-2 cubes net ported to 28-30hz, using a 4-5" pvc port . I'm looking for a flat response, with as much extension as I could get. I'm mounting mli-65's up front as dedicated midbass drivers; and plan on them mating up with the sub in the 60hz area. The power will come from two bridged …

i know the recommended power is 100rms but are these speakers still thirsty for more?

Do I need two terminal cups for a DVC sub? Thanks Well, I might as well ask my other questions while I'm thinking about them. If I'm wiring a DVC in parallel, how do I connect the two terminals? Can I just twist the two wires together and run that end into one terminal, then the other end into the second terminal? And on that same subject, is it good/bad/ugly/no different to twist both ends of the speaker cable wires together, to make a bigger wire for each terminal? Hope that made sense.

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum so bear with me. I'm looking to pick up 2 10" subs but I'm deciding between two. The first choice would be 2 10" AA assassins. My other choice would be two DD 510Bs. There specs look the same but i don't know which to get. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

For subs right now I plan on walling my suv to the front seats and am putting in 4 18" Xcons. I want my front stage to play as loud as possible without breaking my budget of 5-600 dollars. This is what I have scoped out right now and please let me know what you think. Crossover on the sub will most likely be around 50-60hZ. Woofer http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=297-056 Midrange http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-550 Tweeters http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_246&products_id=290 I also found these Image Dyamic Horns on craigslist http://houston.craigslist.org/ele/1305666743.html I have been …

So I have purchased Gcon from tirefyr while I am awaiting to get all my parts together for my other build. My question about my Gcon. It will be sealed at 1.5 cuft after displacement. I was planning to put the sub in the center of the 30 in wide enclosure. Would there be any benefit to offsetting the sub one way or the other? or am I just over thinking this.

This might be a dumb question but i have been doing some research and cant find and exact awnser. My question is what (design & structure wise) makes a door speaker sound better than another one if the givin situations were all exactly the same. As in, for example, an Alpine Type S vs RE Audio XXX series.

i've been running my magnums sealed for awhile now i feel it's time for a ported box. SI recommends 1.5 cubes per sub tuned to 32 hz. my question is doesn't anybody have there subs in this type of enclosure and how does it sound? or will it sound better in a different size/tuned box?

i have 2 morel dms-29 1-1/8 tweeters. what would be the difference in sound if i used a capacitor instead of running the speakers thru a crossover? does it affect the power it receives?

what can i fudgein do to get the screws that hold the basket to the motor loose? i cant get them to budge btw its a FI BL

Im just curious if i get 1 15" mag what components should i look at? that would compliment the sub well.... what if i got 2 15"s? I have alpine coaxail and eclipse coaxails in right now.