Subwoofers / Speakers
Discuss Subwoofers And All Aspects Of Speakers here.
6,865 topics in this forum
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I'm going to be installing my focal ps165 component set into my 03 tahoe. My plans are to use the supplied crossovers. I will be using a baffle and possibly deaden the doors in the near future when time and money allow. I have seen several installs in tahoes where they mount the tweeter right above the mid in the doors. My vehicle has room for that but came factory with tweets in the pillars. Not sure which route to take. Doors or pillars? I have read where putting them with the mid is best? I know this may boil down to personal preference but I don't exactly know what to expect from either.
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well, as some of seen the pics..now it's time for a review.. i bought the sub for $50 just so i could add some low end. i chose the pr becuz scott (owner radioactivity) said they kicked ass for cheap subs, personally i thought he was full of chit...but read on.. The Install the sub is in the recommened 1ft^3 with 6in^2 of port. yep just 6 square inches! the only thing i changed was port length, as memphis recommends a 40 hz tuning, i added 3/4" to the port length, hopefully bringing it down somewhere around 35-37 hz. The Power yeah right!! it's getting fed a rated 70 wrms @ 4 ohm from a memphis pr 140. fred (local memphis rep) says the amp is actually closer to 125 wrm…
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I'm thinking about getting a set of the XXX components. Anyone have any experience with them? Positives, negatives?
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I'm going to try and keep this as short, simple, and straight forward as possible. My trunk's cubic feet is 15.18 ... 2 18" Xcons Vas is 429, resulting in 15.14^3. Good match eh? I hate the idea of having just one subwoofer. I don't know why, but i just do. I want to see what everyone thinks about using Xcons in an IB setup? I read that it decreases power handling, doesn't sound as loud as an enclosure would, but saves space and weight. And hopefully allow me to utilize the amount of cubic feet i have and be able to use 2 18's! I'm just coming up with some ideas, so i don't know if this is just completely dumb or what But i want to keep a lot of options open. So ple…
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Hi guys, this will be long...lol...bear with me. I just bought a 97 Tahoe (4dr 4x4) and am wanting to put a new system in it. So far I have just a HU (Pioneer DEH-80PRS) and the amp for my mids/highs (MB Quart RM440.4). I'll have to wait until I get home (I'm in Afghanistan for another week) to get speakers as I don't know sizes and have gotten conflicting info online... Also, planned on doing the big 3 when I get home too... For the sub amp I was planning on using a Hifonics Brutus BRX2000.1D (or equivalent, or possibly a little more power, trying to stay below $300 for it). I'm very conflicted on the sub though... I'm thinking I only want to run 1 sub (2 isn't co…
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Looks like I will be competing with Treo this coming season. Just won an auctin for a CSX 15" built for SPL (no pole vent). It does have a blown coil but for $100 shipped I am not complaining. It is going back to Treo anyway to get enlarged to an 18" with quad coils. Hmmmm, quads. So it looks like Treo and Concept for me this season. I will post some pics of the 15" when I get it and of the 18" when it returns!
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ok so if i did go with 2 15's,which ones would u guys prefer? i have 1800 watts to put to them, and roughly 6CF to work with for a box. i want loud, low and clean haha who doesnt??? my spending max is right at $450 maybe $475 maxxxx Let me know what u all think Thanks fellas
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I have Scan-Speak Discovery D2608/9130 in mdf rings mounted to my dash and windshield with double sided tape. One of them came off the dash on a hot day. When I picked it up I realized the double magnets aren't glued together anymore. Here are some pics. Can I just clean up the surfaces with some denatured alcohol, apply some CA glue and clamp the magnet back together?
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How would you best characterize the IXL series of subs? Made to be accurate? Made to get loud? Somewhere in the middle? Reason that I'm asking is I'm looking for a sub for a small sealed box to integrate with a system built with musical accuracy in mind.
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ok so my friend at the audio shop was using his audiocontrol spl meter with and his gates cd in my car....i peaked out at about 51-52hz at 147.7 and on some streatbeat songs i pulled a 147.1,i think thats a decent number for my 2 12 SX's and my nine.1.So are far as in the future for what im gonna do im not sure yet only money can tell...lol So do you guys think thats a decent number for streatbeat or do i need to bump the power up a bit??
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Ok well I just received my D2 from Oak244 on ca.com, I just realized he's a member on here too, and wel I need an enclosure design. Itll be powered by a Hifonics BX1205d, I listen to rock and rap just about 50/50, and I would like LSQ leaning towards the SPL side. I was thinking about doing the 1.5 cuft @ 32 hz that is recommend on the SI site but thought I'd ask for other recommendations. BTW will anyone here design a box for me? lol My old box was for a RE SX 15" external dimensions 34w x 25d x 12h tuned to 35 hz. The box was HUGE. I need my trunk so I can relocate my battery since intercooler piping for my boost project will get in the way.
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Hey guys! Jw who all ordered the spl 15 and what your guys' plans to do with them were.. box design, amp choice, etc I'm still undecided on box but as of now im going to under power it with my Cadence Daytona 1000d and eventually upgrade to something that will actually feed this monster
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so i was wondering if there were any local guys(central/south florida) who would want to get together and check out each others packages, err, i mean subs? im in the market for a new sub and it would be awesome if i could check out/hear other ppls different subs and builds. i mean, i could go to the store, but you know how it is there... and if u you look at a demo car, its f'ing fully equipped and whatnot so you get your hopes up only to be crushed with a dollar amount/value
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plan on getting a set of ID ctx65cs comps powered by a kicker zx350.2, doors will be deadened and have mdf baffles.. for sub(s) would u go with 3 idq 10s powered by a zx1000.1 at 2.66 ohm or a icon 15 powered by the zx1000.1 at 2 ohms? will be in a sealed box in a 02 blazer.. lookin for sq but still be able to get loud.. listen to 95% rock/metal so i want tight clean bass
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Ive got myself a 1977 Buick Regal...thas one of those metal cars...no plastic...and no type of dampening so yes sound dampening is on my to get list. Im not an all out SPL guy, but not any all out SQ guy... Im more of a "LSQ" guys that many people are...but wont admit it. Due to an awkward trunk...I AM A go with either 1 15 or 2 10s. I want it to sound clean and hit the lows. Boxes im thinking bout ..... two 10s...3 cu ft. tuned to 32hz, 1 15 3-4 cu ft. tuned to 32 hz I dont wanna spend more than 230 for a single woofer or 400 for a pair WOofers Fi SSD 15 AA Aresnal 15 Re SE 10, 15(they are pretty cheap on ebay) Alpine Type-R 10, 15( hear they arent very good on the sq, i…
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How much longer till they start making there subs again and letting people like me buy them?
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I would hope that most of you know that I'm not one to post "this vs. that" threads.... with that being said: My CDT CL62's are a little dissapointing. I want to have a four-way ( ) in my Trailblazer: Componant set in the front doors / dedicated mid-bass in the rear doors / sub in the cargo area. I'm of the mindset to go: Subbass - taken care of (Uberwoofer 15" + 1500 watts). Midbass - 6.5", 60-150hz, sealed in 0.5-0.7ft^3. Midrange - 6.5", 120-3khz, sealed (0.5ft^3) or IB. Tweets - 3/4", 3khz plus, prolly metallic, but could do silk. I have 100x4@4ohm rms available. 200@2ohm. If you had $600 to spend on those six speakers & a pair of crossovers, what would yah do?
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I brought my decision down to 3 subs...maybe 4 i want 1 15...but was looking at the Mach 5 MAW15's Alpine Type R-15(vented...4cu ft. 30hz) Kicker CVX-15(vented...4cu ft. 30hz) FI SSD-15(vented...4cu ft. 30hz) maybe SSA ICON 15(vented...4cu ft. 30hz) or 2...Maw-15's(sealed...3.5 cu ft.) I want LSQ...i want the lows to be smooth... Often times...budget subs bottom out and have hard bass...not smooth...so wat is everyone's opinion?
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So I bought some used DD 9917s off **** and apparently they were just reconed. Well, I had a box built for one of them just to try it out and I started to play it in the car and it wasn't exactly very loud and literally after a minute or so, the sub completely locked up. It was wired to two ohms @ 3000 watts which is pretty much nothing for a 9917. So, after that, I hook up the other one. I notice the strong smell of a burning sub after about 20 seconds of playing it loud then about 2 hours later it starts making a sound like a spring vibrating or something. This one isn't blown YET but I sense it's damaged. When I push down on it, I can feel it rubbing. Any of you guys …
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Hey guys, A thought has hit me as I look through the forums, and I was wondering if anybody could give me their opinion on this matter. Ok, so why when somebody decides to focus on the "Front stage", do they only focus on the front two doors? I understand that the driver is up front, so maybe that is the primary reason for this. When I look at a install, I would see anywhere from two to eight door speakers but only in the front two doors. I don't understand why isn't it kept to the equal amount of speakers that are in the back two doors, or for cars, the back deck? To me, if I was to put 3 door speakers up front, I would put 3 door speakers in the back as well. I underst…
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Well I had a chance to get a sub I have long dreamed of buying at a price I couldn't refuse. It still made my bank account cry for mercy but as some of you know I'll do almost anything for audio Without further ado, her is my brand-shiny-new Aura NS15 Here it is with the IdMax.... kinda makes it look dainty Top view.... note different approaches to the same 24-25mm of xmax. Side showing cooling solution. This thing has a 4" voicecoil... and I guess that means it needs a 3.5" pole vent? Last we have the model sticker and one of the binding posts.... interesting design. Now I need to choose; car or HT?!
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What would be a good Subwoofer choice (12"), If my preferences were in this order: 1.) LOW FREQUENCY EXTENSION 2.) SOUND QUALITY 3.) SPL ? I have 800-1000w into 2ohms I only Need One Space is not a Issue I am using 8" MidBass 2 would be acceptable
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Since my RCA pictures and speaker wire comments pretty much started a fire last time, here is the official thread to either put up or shut up. I will send out a 20 foot piece of Omni speaker CABLE (no interconnects like I have, as they are just too expensive to send out like that). Twenty feet is more than enough to swap out one side of a stereo with. What I advise doing is only putting this wire on one side of your system, whether it be car or home, and take a listen to the difference. Reply to this topic only if you wish to be on the demo list. I will pay for shipping to a person, and then when that person gets the wire they pay shipping to the next person, and so-on a…
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Finally got my sub from the UPS guy. I can't wait til I fab up a box for this baby. Anyhow...onto some pics! i'm loving the look of that motor! multiple vents for cooling. more cooling all around the top plate... next to my RL-p 15 More pics will follow as I construct the box sometime this weekend.
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I will be ordering three 12's soon and need some help as to which one fits my application the best. I have a 6 cube box tuned to 32hz that i will be using. I want loud daily subs with the ability to get low. These will be ran off of an Saz 3000d @ 1 ohm. This will be a daily system and may do a little streetbassing here and there..
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