Subwoofers / Speakers

does anyone know anything about this company?

I've tried looking on their website, but it only says "N/A". Would anyone know the Specs? to build a custom 33hz box? My local car audio shop needs to know the specs before they build the box. Thank You EDIT: Driver 21 Inch MSRP $799 FS N/A Re 4 ohm series Qms N/A Qes N/A Qts N/A Mms N/A Cms N/A Sd N/A Vas N/A Spl N/A BL N/A X-max N/A Sub Diameter 21 1/4 inches Mounting 19 1/4 inches Mounting Depth 11 7/8 inches Driver Displacement .26 cubic ft/ Power 1500 Wrms / 3000 Peak Driver 21 Inch MSRP $799

I HAVE a set of discontinued Morel Integra Ovation 6 or 6.5" coax (point source) speakers. I had them installed in a vehicle I sold years ago but snatched them out of the car before letting it go. So I have had these put away since ~ '09ish I am virtually positive that there is a built in crossover in the back. There is a small plastic disc that simply peels off the back and I see what appears to be a capacitor or resistor whatever, among other stuff. IS THAT THE XOVER? your input is greatly appreciated and will keep me from pulling my hair out.

Look what i have to play with next season Finding images of the SPL15 on the internet is hard so i decided to spam up the forum with these, all i can say is that it is one serious driver, very heavy, great build quality, very stiff, i cannot wait to get this thing up and running. Im currently getting the wood cut now but the box will be 4.2cubes tuned at 38Hz with 80 inches of port. It should hammer

2005 dodge ram 1500 I have this massive triple sub 10", shared lower vent, chambered box 16.5x20x49(with port).... port size is 2.25"x49"x12.5". I have 2 alpine swr-10d4(1000rms-3000peak), and one swr-1043d(600 rms-1800peak). all were previously ran in parallel @ 1 ohm (i think) going to a rockford fosgate t1000.1 power series. Suprisingly it hardely even got warm and pushes them hard. BTW!!= I just yesterday wired in my red top underneath my back seat and i have that wired to the bullz audio 2f cap=> everything wired to that...(i have a normal stock truck battery up front) My questions: 1.Is my port the right length?(can it sound better if made longer/shorter/complete…

Okay so i'm designing my box for the 2nd Gcon 15'' and i'm thinking about going with 10^3ft box and i wanna know what a recommended tuning for it would be and how i would measure the port hole. Recommended was between 28-33hz and the recommended optimal ported was 4.00-6.00ft cubed per sub. let me know

Has anyone checked these out? They look like they would be a nice option for car audio: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-2-fullrange/fountek-fr59exe-full-range/ Fountek FR59EXE Full Range

Hey SSA! New member here with a few questions, hope you can help me out. I will be doing a build log soon on my 1994 Plymouth Acclaim. My plans are to have a single sub firing into the cabin with the trunk sealed off and the port through the rear deck. I know I will be getting a Fi BL but I am not positive on what size I will be able to fit firing forward ( I'll be making measurements tomorrow in shop class). I will power it with a Sundown 1500SAZ. Then for my active setup I want to run all identical amps so I will run a 100.4 (SUNDOWN) for my midrange and tweets and a 125.2 (SUNDOWN) for my midbass drivers. I know for sure that I want AA carbon fiber 7" for my mid…

So, it just dawned on me that I was mucking up my build log just talking about tweeters and thought I'd make a dedicated thread. I have been doing quite a bit of searching and I'm at the point that everything is just kinda starting to blur together. I tend to over think things and it is getting the best of me right now. I am looking for something to mate with my Seas CA18RNX. I liked the ID xs28s I had, though I don't have a lot to go off of either. I didn't have much to complain about them, but when I switched the ID mids for the Seas mids I was surprised by the improvement. If I can get that kind if improvement in the tweeters as well, I'd be a happy camper. I am fairly…

Hey nick man thanks again for stopping to work on the brakes to show me all the cool stuff u have... the 2 hour drive was worth being the 2nd guy to get his mags .... heres some pics of my new equipment minus my battery that hasnt arrived yet

At this juncture, I don't have a particular subwoofer in mind. I would just like to inquire whether I can build a ported enclosure larger than recommended to obtain a lower tuning. If so, what level of increase could potentially harm the driver? Thank you.

I have more work to do, but so far I have to say the XCON is a low end beast! I built a sealed enclosure that is 1.25 cubes and have a temp amp right now which is a RF 500.1. I have some fine tuning to do, but right off the bat, I know I will be happy with this sub. Played a couple tracks from Bass 305, some Decaf, and some Lamb of God. The presence of the sub is amazing! Completely transparent and I cannot tell where the sound is coming from most of the time, which is due to the setting I have the crossover at currently. I have the crossover set a little high right now, right around 80hz. I'll start to dial it back after I mess with my comps a bit. I haven't had a sub…

I know this will be mainly opinionated, but i am wondering on what you think would be a good step up from a 12" w6. I love the sound of the w6 but i want it to be a bit louder with the same quality. Again i am not looking for someone to try and give me proof of which sub is better or what would be better, but just personal opinions on what you think would sound similar to a w6 just a bit louder. 12" Fi Q 12 "Death Row 12" Icon

As stated i just got back my 2007 Fi Bl 12 from the kid i sold it to a couple of years ago. He said it was blown so i went and picked it up. Come to find out one of the tensile leads was broken at the connector and the coils both read perfect. Coil still looks great and suspension is still pretty stiff. My questions are: 1.) Can i lengthen the tensile lead with shielded 12 gauge speaker wire? 2.)What How much would a complete recone run (psi or fi)? 3.) Once i fix it how much could i sell it for?

i just got a real good deal on a kicker kx1200.1 and was wondering if switching from the crossfire vr1000d to the kicker kx1200.1 will make a audible difference?Right now i have my mag 15 in a 3.7cf at 27hz box.According to my friend who's a kicker dealer i should definately hear a difference, what do you guys think?

looking for a set of components still someone help me i have an 2002 s-10 i have a pioneer head unit re sx ten inch sub and an usamps md1d amp. ill probably be using a kac-723 kenwood amp for the components. not sure how far i would take it modification wise ill probably use mid bass in the regular spot and then tweeter in the a pillar or very top of door panal budget for the components are about 250 im a beginner but my dad is alot better than me ill probably be using mdf and fiberglass just depends on what works best i listen to everything rap rock country dont matter only had the coasixals havent heard many components only at car shows a few years ago no real goals…

Well I'm writing this for anyone who might care. I'll go through the steps of how to take apart a speaker(with pics of course). Here are the supplies. 1 Koda6 (thank you Nick), 1 bottle of CA unbonding glue, and a utility knife First, run the knife around the edge of the surround to separate it from the basket. The Koda has a stretchy rubber surround so it didnt really cut so well. Then, just cut the speaker leads. And detach the spider from the basket. This was the tricky part. I found that although being soaked in the CA unbonding glue for a few minutes, it just woundn't budge. So i just took the knife to that as well. It was quite flimsy and easy to cut. An…

Is it just me or do more and more ppl just keep asking about RE Audio SE's? Is the SE that good for the price? Im not putting the SE down or anythign im just wondering..

Well im bored and im going to start a new job soon, so naturally i must start a new project... The Car Anyways i'd end up taking the back seats out, doing a fiberglass sealed enclosure, for the mags at a slant fireing back, and probably do some sort of compartment were the rear seats are for 2 extra batteries, along with w.e. else i need, i'll end up pulling the floor up in the back also, if i really wanted to im sure the is enough space to go ported or if i wanted im sure i can have all the subs fireing back instead of at a slant towards the back, I was thinking the new focal 3-way series for a front stage or the CDT ES 3-way's also I was thinking a 250a alt should be …

So i've been browsing around for some components in the ~75Wrms range, and I saw that Rockford Fosgate has some Power series components that fit the bill. The T1652-S and T2652-S look exactly the same, except for the fact that the T1 can be had online for 80 bucks, and the T2 is still around 200. As far as I can see, there is no difference except that cooling vent on the back, the tweeters are silver, and there's a pointy thing in the middle. If we're being honest, i'm not really going to push them too terribly hard, so I don't think that I would need the extra cooling. I guess my question is: does anyone have any experience with RF speakers, and does anyone know the real…

Car: 2013 VW Golf 4doorHeadunit: KENWOOD DDX471HD 2DIN 6.1" TOUCHSCREENPlanned sub stage: 2x10" Fi SSD's sealed, ~0.4cubes each, powered by a Cadence ZRS C1 mono (2250rms @ 1ohm)I did my previous car's stereo install which was a single DIN head unit(Alpine IDA-X100), same amplifier(reusing it), and a 15" Fi BTL in a ported box. But with that install, I still only had the stock front speakers. Towards the end, I think even both tweeters died. My previous build was geared towards maximum volume with a high schooler's budget, now that I'm older and my tastes have changed, I plan to build more towards quality but not crazy like I've seen some people take it. I figure that…

Right now I've got an Ascendant Audio Atlas 15, and about 400 - 500RMS to play with. I am thinking of upgrading to the D2 later this year. My question is, on limited power, is the D2 still an upgrade?? The Atlas is no slouch down low and does pretty darn well off of 400 RMS, 18mm xmax. The box I plan on using is going to be a 4.5 cubic foot ABC box tuned to 33hz.

I am lookin to replace my current single Diamond D3 10 with a single or possibly two 12's but dont want to buy run of the mill subs (ie JL Rockford Alpine) and would like to explore other options. I will try to give as much info as i can. 1st - My current set up is - Pioneer head unit - that will be replaced also MB Quart Ref 6.25 MB Quart Onyx 4.80 Diamond D3 10 Kicker ZX1000.1 2nd - I listen to a wide range of music and perfer SQ to SPL. 3rd - Even though i have a good amount of room to use, i would prefer NOT to use the entire cargo area for a speaker box but understand i have to give to get so i am willing give up some room if needed. 4th - Budget i would like …

Are the IXL's available in a VC config that would allow two to be wired up at one ohm? I'm thinking of either a dual 10" or dual 12" setup and would have a one ohm stable amp. On that note as well, I don't see the IXL 10's on the mach5 website, only on the SSA, and I might as well order straight from Mark and not have to worry about duties.

so i guess caseys zcon 15 finally had it. he has been feeding it 3000watts lol (never dropping below 13.3V) got a text yesterday saying the zocn was on fire and he couldnt get to it because it was in a 4th order in his trunk but he could see a small flame down the port. thank god it burned itself out. This is not ssa's fault so dont think any less of them! all there subs are top of the line! lol feeding it 750watts over rms for a year and a half. i believe he did a 146 sealed up out of the trunk with a single 15.. not to shabby haha IIRC, caseys doing 2 zcon 12s or a single 15" evil anyways, heres pics guys! Heres the last video we took of it... R.I.P zcon 15