Subwoofers / Speakers

I have a very nice SQ system already installed, but I'm going to work on the sub section to add more output. Intially, the sub/subs will just be in a standard MDF box in the trunk. I need help choosing a sub/subs for this project...that's where you guys come in. Here are some details so hopefully I can help you help me. - Civic Si 4 dr Sedan - SQ is important, but SPL out of the subs is a hair more important for this project. - Front stage = Hybrid Audio Legatia 3 way set - Front stage amps = DLS A4 and A3 - HU/EQ = Alpine IVA-W200/PXA-H701 - Sub amp = DLS A6 (870w@2ohm, 1200w@1ohm) - Sub has to be 12" - Can either be two 12" in a sealed box or one 12" in either a seal…

While we were testing the new Mag we decided to play around with some old BM 10's. We put eight 10's in an SPL car that had no alternator, 5 batteries, and a single SAZ 3000D. The first burp was in the 154's but we ended up getting it up to a 157.2 without too much trouble. Keep in mind the batteries had no charger on them for most of the test and when a carger was on them it was a little portable (about 12" by 9") charger. Oh yeah, this was all done on a Term Lab meter.

Wow, I was wondering if anyone had tried these subs out.. I have never heard of this company before but figured since I just won the lotery I had to buy one. For the price it better work great! Mother of all Subwoofers - $145,000.00 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items! Haha

Whats up...first wanted to say thanks to everyone on the SSA forums.. Very glad I found it. A lot of good info and members here.... now that I'm done kissing ass lol ..... I need some recommendations.. I recently built an enclosure to replace the old setup in my Eclipse. I built it to fit how I wanted in the hatch, and did not have a pre-planned volume. When I finished this thing, I ended up with: 1.62 cu ft Slot Ported @ 32hz 7.5" max mounting depth. I layed out both 12" and 10" cut out patterns on it, and have a Type R 10" temp mounted in it so I could still play until I chose on a final driver. I'm actually very impressed how the Alpine is playing in this enclosure. …

Heres some pictures of my current work in progress. It is a downward firing, (port to the side, might build another one with port up too) for behind the seat in an Ext. Cab 89 S-10. A DD 1008 is going in it powered by my USA-300 and my epicenter if I get around to hooking it up. This box was/is built for taking up a minimal amout of space and because I have this stuff laying around doing nothing. The box is around .8 cubes tuned to 40hz. On with the pictures

Well, I am looking to make myself a home sub to augment my Bowers and Wilkins DM603 S3 towers bottom end. I am looking at the BM 12" and was wondering how well it would work in a home environment, what size enclosure and whether it should be ported or sealed. Also, I just wonder when these will be available for purchase as I assume you approved the new design since its up on your site.

Okay.. So last time I tried to design a box myself, a got the dimensions a bit wrong, there was a few things I wanted to make a bit different. Here are all the specifications Iv came up with and hopefully they are right this time. Box Net Volume 6.75 cubic feet Port Area 126 inches2 Port Tuning 30hz Port Internal Dimensions 9” x 14” x 46.63” Port Displacement (8.25” of the port will be external)(33.38” Internal Port) 9.75” x 15.5” x 14.25” (Part A of "L" Port) =1.24625651 cubic feet 9.75” x 15.5” x 18.38” (Part B of "L" Port) = 1.60745226 cubic feet 1.24625651 + 1.60745226 = 2.854 cubic feet + 0.18 cubic feet (Subwoofer Displacement) = 3.034 cubic feet (Total Displac…

I'm looking to build a serious quality HT sub that will really hit the lows, and with a FS of 15.4 hz thats enough to keep me smiling. i was thinking along the lines of a rectangular box with a 6" port and roughly 15 cubes tuned to 20 hz, what do you guys think? gives me a miniscule bump in the low 20's but keeps the f3 at ~17 hz. i was thinking 1" MDF with a double thickness front baffle, but am not quite sure how to brace it. (i can't wait for the IXL drivers) http://www.techytoys.com/store/product.php?productid=4501 thats what i will be using for an amp, The buttkicker 1100w @ 4 ohm. (i like the idea of a separate sub amp instead of the plate amp setup because i can th…

Is the reason for the lack of posting on your website due to lack of stock?

I have decided to stay away from trying to fit a ported box in a regular cab ranger and just stick to sealed. I wanted to hear everyone's opinion on which has the ability to have the most output in their optimum sealed enclosure with the recommended power. Sub will be 1 12'', here are the options: SSA ICON FI Q SS RL-P SI MAG(new model) Or if there are any other options out there please let me know. I appreciate the help.

Test Box the subs / SoundStream XxX / Memphis M3 MojoMaxx / Pierce Audio Moab / 3x 15"

Hey everyone i'd like to hear some opinions on what i want for my sub stage. I want to get rockford fosgate. here are the options im thinking.. 2 12" P3's sealed or ported? 1 15" T1 ported 2 10" T0's ported 1 10" T2 ported Will be getting 1000rms to them. I've asked all my friends and their opinions are scattered lol. What do you guys think I should get? I want good sound quality and loudness as well.. id go for more sound quality than loudness but if i can get loudness too that would be great. Im leaning more towards the 1 15" t1 or p3s sealed but idk.. will be in a honda civic coupe, and in the trunk. thanks again guys cant wait to hear some feedback.

I recently decided on CDT ES-07s as my midrange speakers but i was looking for suggestions on a beefy midbass. THe cdts lack much more midbass then my last speakers but the midrange sound is awesome. anyone played with morel or any diy speakers?

i checked the coils and they both read 2.1 and 2.2 ohms. its a dual 2 ohm sub ive tried push in on the sub and out and dont hear a thing checked the tinsil leads looked at the cone its self and i dont know what it is... i asked about it in another topic i had going but i felt this need its own post because im sure others have had the same problem. any suggestions on what to do before i send it in for a recone should i take it apart myself first or what help me out

OK so subsonic filter how many hz do you guys set below tunning?

I have an xtant 1001 it gives 1000 watts rms I need either 2 12's or 1 12 what do you guys think is louder 2 re se 12s or 2 rlp 12s or 1 re sx 12 I only care about SPL whatever I get will be in a ported box thanks in advance

So Im about to change my factory speakers to a 2-way component set. Right now, I will be running passive (HU->crossover from components->woofer/tweeter) but in the future, I plan on adding a Sundown 100.4D Will this be right? HU->Amplifier->Crossover from components->woofer/tweeter) Also, is this considered active? The reason why I ask is because I plan on buying Morel Hybrid Ovation II components, and the dealer Im getting it from told me they put a lot of work in the crossovers. At that price, I wouldn't like to put those crossovers in a box in the closet, but I wont use them if you guys tell me its better not to have them if there is an amplifier already…

Hi guys. I currently am running a single Alpine SWX-1242D with a pdx 1.1000 in a 2.25 - 2.5 cubic foot enclosure in the back of my Hummer. I csn't remember what it is tuned to, as I got the design off of a forum a couple years ago. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get the ouput I want. I am not sure why, but there just doesn't seem to be enough bass. My input source is a Mac mini running to an Alpine PXE 650 with the Ant EQ, which has 4 volt pre outs. I also run a stock batt, with a yellow top optima in the back. Stock alternator and all power And grounds are 0 gauge welding cable. So since I can't firgure out the problem other than the box may not be right, …

i need some mid's with killer midbass, enough to blend in well with my horns and ported idmax. here are my amp specs: MA Audio m283i 2ch # Frequency Response: 20 Hz - 20 kHz # Full Mosfet Circuitry # Selectable Bass Boost @ 50Hz # 50dB Channel Separation # 90dB Signal Noise Ratio # 22K Ohm Input Impedance # 200mV-2V Input Sensitivity # THD <0.05% # Selectable Crossover: LPF, FLAT, HPF # 50Hz - 250Hz Low Pass Filter # 50Hz - 250Hz High Pass Filter # Selectable Bass Boost (0db, 6dB, 12dB) # 2 x 100W Rms @ 4 Ohm Stereo # 2 x 200W Rms @ 2 Ohm Stereo # 1 x 400W Max @ 4 Ohm Bridged # Fuse Rating: 25A x 1 could yall suggest something? theyre most likely gonna be in the doors …

in your (non biased) opinion, which sub would you say, in there optimal enslure w/at least rms power running to them, would sound better/be louder? a few guys on CA.com i was talking to said that i should get the HDC's over the BL's and that they are louder. he said the HDC's are more comparable to the BTL's....of course i have my doubts but i want to know what you guys think thanks

I have a pair of DCON 12's and I blew one of them so looking to get a pair of new woofers. I loved how the DCON's sounded but looking to maximize my amp's power. The subs I am looking at are AQ SDC2.5, Obsidian Audio 12, Sundown SD-2 and they are within my budget of $350. They will be powered by an AQ1200D. I have a enclosure built by DC Creations and it made my DCON slam hard. If you guys have another suggestion I'm all ears.

Hey guys, i've been thinking about upgrading to a different sub, but i cant decide what i want. Right now i have a SSD 12, which i am very happy with sq wise, and it does get decently loud, but not as loud as i would like. Im looking to stay with the 1 12 set up, or possibly 1 15, so what would you guys say would be a good choice to get as loud as possible. I've been thinking maybe a BL or something similar. I would like to keep the price around 400 or under. Thanks.

So I am starting a new build and really cant make up my mind on the subs. Its not as much a "which sub problem" as much as it is the enclosure, I dont have experience with either so that is why Im asking for advice. Please keep in mind I have a 2003 maxima. So the dp would have to be sub up port forward with the rest of the trunk space walled off. While the 12's can be sub and port forward with the trunk walled off. My goal is spl, and I have the electrical to back either design. I know cone area is usually a good thing to go by for spl, but I really dont know how much of a difference the enclosures will make to spl or sq. Also keep in mind my current set up is 3 10'…

I've been in the market for some new boom for a long time now. For the last couple years I had two ten inch L5's doing the duty for me. I'm about to purchase three id 10v3's but it doesn't seem like many people on any boards these days are running ID. I do stupid things with my money, and I want to make sure these are worth the 120/ea or whatever I'm gonna pay. I was going to go with two RL-P 12's but that'll cost an extra hundred dollars....anyone think it's worth the wait/saving? I know both setups should get louder and deeper AND sound better than what I've got...but does anyone think the RL-P's aren't worth the extra money? In theory the 3 id10v3's and two rl-p…

I'm looking to upgrade my 2 10" kicker cvx's with something better. It's a 2.6 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz. They will be powered by a kicker zxs1500.1 amp rated for 1581 watts. I was trying to decide between the gcons or the chaos. Gcons are only $183 each with free shipping and chaos are $220 each with $80 shipping for both. I want it to sound good but be loud. Are the chaos worth the extra money? Or maybe other suggestions?