Subwoofers / Speakers

I cant take credit for this, I found it on another forum and saved it.

I searched the web looking for a "how to" on fixing Tinsel leads and couldn't find one. So I made one myself and would like to share it with the car audio community. (I will be cross posting this "how to" other web sites.) Don't throw that sub away just because the leads broke! Here's how to fix them. Finding new leads can be a pain, and this is just a "how to" video. So I will just be using De soldering braid instead of replacement tinsel leads. De soldering braid will work in place of real leads, but not for long. This can be a bit time consuming and will take some patience. I'll use this old sub I had laying around for this. Start by going around the dust cap with a…

Here is a cool one for everyone who is amazed at the size of an MTX RFL. Here it is compared with a Shocker Sig. One of my favorite pics. And yes, the Shocker is a 12".

I’m looking to build a ported enclosure for (6) Ampere Audio AA-2.5 6.5” D2 subs. They will be run on a 5k/1 ohm stable amp wired at a 1.33 ohm load. There will be plenty of power as they are 500 rms and 800 max. I can’t seem to get anything from Ampere Audio on the port size I need. With sub displacement my box needs to be 2.48 CF (+) port displacement. Does anyone have suggestions or know how to calculate the port size? Square inch and length is what’s needed. Hopefully someone can help on this

I've been out of the car audio scene for a long time....used to run Fi audio way back when I did competitions...trying to get back into it a bit and put a couple stout 8" subs under the rear seats in my 21 Ram 1500 crew cab....what does everyone recommend? Guessing ill end up doing a 1500 - 2000 watt amp....I'm more of an spl guy if that matters but obviously need something that works well without a ton of space for an enclosure....unsure of budget as of yet, so suggestions in all price ranges are welcome....any help/advice is appreciated!

Hello, first real post. Planning an install for my resto-mod 79 Camaro. Would like opinions and any expert advice on some parts selection and install. First my Head unit is a Pioneer DEH-X8800BHS. So far I have the following amps on hand: Rockford Fosgate R300X4 and Alpine A2-S60M. I also have a pair of Polk MM692 6x9 full range tri-axial speakers. I was going to use these in the rear deck with a set of Focal 165 V20 6.5" 70W RMS Polyglass Series mounted in the doors with angled pods. I have the 6.5" door mounted pods on hand but not he Focals yet. I'm considering, instead, getting a Focal ISU 200 8" component set and mounting the 8" woofers in the deck with th…

First time going active and need some help with aiming tweeters. My vehicle is a JDM '12 Subaru Forester XS. H/U is Alpine CDA-9887. I've got SSA Evil tweeters in my A-pillars (in swiveling metal pods) and SSA Evil 6.5 mids in the front and rear doors. They're all being ran off a SSA IC150.4. Tweeters are on CH 1/2 and mids (x4) are on CH 3/4. Where should the tweeters be pointed/aimed? I've read several articles but they all say something different (point at the driver, point at opposite headrests, aim between seats up at the headliner, etc). Is it just trial and error? Anyone with these tweeters or helped with a system with these have any advice? Thanks. Oh yeah, …

PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers.... This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part) Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally di…

Hello, My FI neo 4.x 15" will be arriving soon and I'm trying to get some ideas for the enclosure ill be building. I was thinking around 4.5 cubes tuned to 30-32 htz with an 8 inch versa tune aero port. Going to triple baffle the box and have some internal bracing. max dimensions for my GTI are 30x28x28 Still new to car audio so id really appreciate if someone could verify that the enclosure im building would sound good. my sub is the neo 4.7 15" with an extra spider and omega coil, yes i know i should have gone with the 4.9 oh well... thanks

Can anyone tell me any info on this 15 inch dvc subwoofer. I have looked for couple hours on the web and found nothing. On the dust cap which is a dome cone with a logo on the cone it looks like a ninja turtle face. ill upload the 2 photos i took . Thanks

I would like to try and build a ported box for a 12" Kicker CompR but need some direction. I downloaded some apps and did some reading but I think it may have confused me even more. Does anyone have plans for a box design? Thanks for any help.

Gcon 12 vs 13W3v3 which sub will give me the best sound? Listen to Techno and Rap music. I have a JL HD750.1 to push it.

Vehicle: 2003 Acura RSX Budget: $300-$450 Amp: NVX JAD800.4 Im looking to keep it simple and go passive with Two 6.5' components per door, & One tweeter per door. Will be having a fellow friend with experience fabricating doors do the install. So far Ive from a quick search, Im looking at the Incriminator Audio I6.5c's, or Image Dynamics ID65CS components...Anyone have any experience with either of these or any other suggestions? Pretty set on doing only one tweeter per door, any info on going with only one or going 2 per door would be great.

What’s up guys I’m sitting at checkout w/ Two SSA Zcon 18’s and needed some help w/ their impedance options... I’m choosing to go with the Standard Dual 2’s and wondering if anybody knew what the standard 2’s will actually read on a DMM before rise? Only asking because I know SSA’s standard dual 1’s actually read 0.7... So I’m assuming the dual 2’s actually read 1.7 right? ...Help meh please lol

My sub will be bumping bass for parts of the song then it will cut out and nothing will be coming out of the bass. I have 2 subs, ones a 12 and the other is a 10 kicker compR. I have a 900watt pioneer amp connected to the them both, the bass will cut in and out, what’s the problem?? I’m clueless with subs

Hi guys, I'm looking for a system for my X1. There's not much room in the doors, I can only fit a 4" mid, not too deep though. Some companies have direct fit in speakers for that car. I'm thinking about a Focal set (ES 100 K). Buuut I would love to keep my SSA Evil1 tweeters. What 4" mids would you use ? I will use an Incriminator 3.4 amp and 2 Gcons10" on 2K watts.

I've been doing some research online, and I know a handful of people who manufacture and sell subwoofers frequent this forum. So was hoping I could get some info on good ways to approach building my own custom subwoofer. My goal: Purchase all the individual components of a subwoofer (motor, basket, voice coil, cone...etc) and build something nobody else has. My issue: Other than a few sites selling certain parts, or trying to pickup blown subs/recone kits, I can't find a reliable source for buying the individual pieces. This makes it very difficult to piece together multiple subs that are the same. Does anyone know of good places to pickup parts? I kno…

Hey guys, I'm looking for a good 4 channel to finish out my setup. I have 4 sundown 6.5 coaxials, says 80 rms per speaker. Running the Sundown 2.75 full ranges in the dash, 35 rms. I got a little Infinity 2 channel (primus 6002) to run the dash speakers alone. Going to Y off the front rcas coming from my Kenwood DNX997XR for those. Looking for a good high quality SQish 4 channel for the sundowns. Pulled the trigger on a Kenwood XR401-4 but something inside is telling me not to go with big box brands. Something inside means people at my work. That XR401-4 is pending return now and I'm looking at getting a DC Audio 90.4. Just curious if somebody can explain the differences …

With my components the crossover has -3, 0 and +3 dB what do most people use? I will be right at the sets rms maybe a little over but not by much.

Gday, First time posting and I really just want to ensure I have everything right before committing to this build. I have owned the MTX 9500 for some time but I feel its always been in boxes way to small for it and I never get the spl I would think out of a sub this size. I decided to design my own box now using subbox pro and wanted to make sure it was well large enough to work well this time. I will be using the Orion XTR2500.1Dz at 1600rms 2ohm. I am happy for other amp options to but its hard to find anything decent in Australia without forking out some ridiculous money. WI checked around for what internal volume and had seen some running at 3.2ft3 which is …

I have a sundown SA 8 rev 1 motor no basket, can I recone it into an SSA F8L or a 10”/12” Sub if I buy a bigger basket?

I have this old audiobahn 12in sub i wanna rebuild does anyone know where I can get a recoil kit for a 12in Aw122 Audiobahn 550watt subwoofer at

I have a 2.05ft box tuned to 36hz for 2 10" drivers. I had 1 sa10 in a 1ft box tuned to 35hz and it's way too peaky for my tastes - shakes the whole car on lows but has hardly any output at higher frequencies, so music sounds "uneven". I'm trying to find a sub that has a smoother frequency response and sq but still gets decent spl. I've graphed 1 of each sub below, in a 1ft box tuned to 36hz (w/ the sa10 for reference). Each is at their recommended rms. I have no idea why the Demon is so off - I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong but I've triple checked all t/s numbers (if someone wants to try and graph that one for me feel free!) I'm limited to a max …

I bought a pair of used 12" Brahma MkII subs a few months back. When I hooked them up, the one has a slight noise to it (the other sub has no issues). At low volumes it wasn't really noticeable but with the volume turned up it was definitely noticeable. The noise originally sounded like the dust cap was loose (slight ticking sound). I checked the dust cap and it is secure. I pushed down on the cone to see if there was any noise/coil rub but there wasn't. The voice coils read like they should (1.5/1.6 ohms). I noticed that there was excess glue where the cone meets the spider (at the 1 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 7 o'clock positions) and the glue is pretty hard. If I put a lit…

I'm looking to install a single 10" subwoofer under the rear seat of my '18 Ram 2500. The enclosure is sealed with a gross volume of 0.8 cubic feet. The amp hasn't been purchased yet, but I'm leaning heavily toward the new Sundown SFB1000D which would provide 1k watts at 2ohms. I'm looking for sound quality while still having the ability to get reasonably loud. I listen to rock, metal and rap. I'm about to pull the trigger on a 10" GCON, but I'd like to get opinions on any other subs I should be looking at before ordering. Budget is <$400.