Leaderboard

I've quoted you lol. Yes, some cases people have ripped spiders, and thats purely down to incorrectly set subsonic filter. If thats set correctly, within 3-4Hz of tuning freq and your not clipping then go right ahead and turn it up. They begin to sound different every day for a couple of weeks before there nicely broken in.

...With That Advice, You Should Be Stranded On An Island With Funky Pups And Hifonics Amps In A Suzuki Sidekick. /endrant

You mean you don't lube your subs Qtc is a little on the lower side for IB, but they have a low Fs to match so results could be acceptable in a car. Depends on what type of response you're looking for.

is there a way to contact zed about the turn on pop issus?

it is like there is a turn on thump with the amps.....thats is very not nice.....and i just purchased mine.....on diymobile audio....i think everyone have a startup thunp...! is there a way to double chek de next batch...i dont want to get the same issue!

don,t know what they are waiting for.... how much payments are still remaining?

If you want your voltage to stay above 14V during continuous full volume play, you will need to have enough alt power to supply the entire system. If you just want to minimize the amount of drop below 13V, then just add an extra battery just for good measure.

The loads are 2 ohms and 6 ohms in the diagram you posted, that is why the voltage drop is not even. If the resistors were the same size, it would be a 12 volt source with 6 volts dropping across the first resistor and 6 volts dropping across the second one.

It is the voltage drop across a load, not after a load that we are interested in. In the first post you assumed that the first resistor has a voltage drop of 40v, exactly the voltage of the battery, which is wrong, as you can see in the picture you posted. 12v battery, 9v across the first resistor, 3v across the second. There is a drop across each component, and the first component it line will not 'see' all the voltage of the battery. Look at the circuit as a whole, not just going from the positive terminal of the battery to the negative and treating components independantly. To make things easier, wire up something and start measuring voltages. Nothing beats the hands-on approach.

Whoa, some very wrong information posted here. When wiring in parallel, each branch of the circuit will 'see' the same voltage and the sum of the currents on the branches is equal to the current supplied by the power supply. In your example, you calculated correctly for the parallel wiring. Series wiring, the sum of the voltage drop across each coil is equal to the voltage supplied by the power supply and the current through each coil is going to be the same. In your example the correcte value is 20V and 10A through each coil. There is no 'first in line' when working on these connections and no '0v returning to the battery'. Trying not to sound harsh here but if this is how the auto electrical class is teaching you, then I feel very sorry for that school. Start reading here : http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/electric/ohmlaw.html#c1

10 and 12 ssd work sealed aswell as the Q line bladeice.com might help for you in europe

When you get your new battery use some dialectic silicone on the battery posts. This will help keep them clean.

He only has three amps but they are all mono, he was just saying 550x2 (how much power per channel). What all equipment will you be running to these amps? Okay so i cancelled the alpine 650 and went with an older amp i found in my closet. Its a TMA 250. So I'm going to run that Sundown to my sub, the TMA to my front drivers, and the Rockford 2 channel to two Wake board tower speakers put up in the back. I'm having a bar welded in the back so they can hang. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7142_Infinity+6000M.html There is the link to the speaks. Will that work? The only thing is is that i don't know drivers to run in the front? its a 97 4runner. any ideas?

Turn everything up and keep your hand on the volume, put on the loudest song you have and when the cone starts sounding overlapped, doubled, clangy, keep the volume full and turn down the gains until it sounds somewhat warm or neutral. Distortion sounds like the motor flapping back & forth too fast, and the cone can't stay linear, but I mean the motor will start sounding like a tin can and not bass. Am I the only one that lives in the country?

A 10 with less than 1000" in a sealed box isn't much output. Get a 1500W sub and port it.