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I'm going to try to make this as simple as possible, there are only certain way woofers can be wired. You cannot wire them in anyway you choose to any ohm load you choose. There are rules to follow with Ohm's Law, which is why it's a Law and not a suggestion. I have seen it a few times in the last 2 days, where people say they will wire them in two different way with only one being possible, and it is very annoying, and no ones seems to want to point it out. So, I will try to make a simple list of basic woofer voice coil configurations and the only ohm loads you can wire them to. And for the noobs "Ω" is the symbol for Ohm Single Dual 4Ω woofer: Parallel 2Ω - Series 8Ω Single Dual 2Ω woofer: Parallel 1Ω - Series 4Ω Single Dual 1Ω woofer: Parallel .5Ω - Series 2Ω Two Dual 4Ω woofers: Parallel 1Ω - Parallel/Series 4Ω Two Dual 2Ω woofers: Parallel .5Ω - Parallel/Series 2Ω Two Dual 1Ω woofers: Parallel .25Ω - Parallel/Series 1Ω At this point it gets to complicated to explain how they are wired so I will just post the total ohm loads. Triple Dual 4Ω woofers: 2.67Ω Triple Dual 2Ω woofers: 1.34Ω or 3Ω Triple Dual 1Ω woofers: .1667Ω .6667Ω Quad Dual 4Ω woofers: .5Ω or 2Ω or 8Ω Quad Dual 2Ω woofers: .25Ω or 1Ω or 4Ω Quad Dual 1Ω woofers: .5Ω or 1Ω or 2Ω From Shizzzon: Also, when troubleshooting, the following should be noted- If trying to make sure you have wired your subs correctly, look below for the load range your multimeter will read in- Before measuring resistance on your DMM, touch probes together. IF it reads 0, then you are ready to measure. If it reads something other than 0, then subtract this number from your measured reading to get the actual resistance reading. 8 ohms - 4.8-7.8 ohms 4 ohms - 2.4-3.9 ohms 2 ohms - 1.2-1.9 ohms 1 ohm - 0.6-0.9 ohms 0.5ohms- 0.35-0.45 ohms 0.25 ohms-0.17-0.22 ohms If there are any errors feel free to tell me, but I think i got most of them right.

Why do you want the ability to re-cone? Sounds like you plan on blowing it.

Sell the 15" box, build a 12", and run a BL 12". Plain and simple, do that and it will pound. And NO, not anything will sound better, putting a large woofer into a small box makes the woofer choke and it sound horrible. So, you shouldn't get a 15" sub, simple as that. Take it from another school kid, do not get another 15". Unless you build a bigger box somehow.

What do you want? More SPL or SQ? I mean any Fi sub is going to sound good and be loud. I mean even the SQ sub (the Q) is loud and will make shit vibrate in your vehicle unless it is properly matted.. but you'll probably still have rattles.. so the question is how loud do you want to be and what are the parameters of that box? (assuming you will use that one) unless you're planning on building another? But, for that amp you should be fine running any Fi woofer. But the BTL will be underpowered.. Id go with a Dual 2 ohm sub running it at 1 ohm getting 1500 watts RMS.. For being loud, i'd say the BL (with options to increase RMS) or the Q to still be loud but to be more musical with amp gain set accordingly.

Hardly the case. The install they are in is weak. I've heard the SLS 10's. The sls 8's are going to have a higher output compared to the mli's. Both are very nice sounding midbasses but if you have the room, go for an 8. I am very critical of equipment, and know what I'm doing when it comes to install. IMO the mid-bass is weak. and i had 100wrms on them in my car, and friend now has 150wrms on them. He bought them from me cause I sold them to him for practically nothing. You can hear them, but there isn't much authority. I am happier with the hertz hi-energy's, but of course there is a price difference. TBH, I have listened to cars that won European SQ titles....I'm not into this sport since yesterday I know what sounds how. I've ran the MLI's for quite some time now and I can tell you that after hearing a car with a pair of high-energy's per door that the high-energy didn't cut the mustard. I've also listened to high-energies in a good install and I can't say they offer so much more output. Maybe a bit more defined but that's all. You should really post pics of how those doors are built and some info on the install because that is what is keeping them down.

First off, most of the caps on the market are BS. It worked for Wayne because he knows his shit, and how to implement it. The magazines print good reviews because they are paid. Plain and simple. Nobody is saying they don't work. The problem is, they are marketed as a band-aid, a cure to low voltage problems. This simply is not the case. If your electrical is suspect, the cap(s) will only hinder it more.

Well welcome to the forum and hope you get the help your looking for. What kind of budget are your working with? this will determin what will be going into your setup. The whole mainstream product thing isn't necessarily a bad thing unless you don't know what you are doing with box building and installs. I prefer underground over mainstream companies. (SSA, sundown, Incriminator audio, Fi audio just to name a few.)\ I can guarantee that you will spend less money getting "underground" companies likes the ones listed above and be much happier, than spending that same money and going to your local shop and getting a lot less product

Tell them to get in touch with Mike Hadden, he is the somewhat local Db Drag and IASCA certified judge. http://www.centralfloridaspl.com/ his phone number is half way down the page.

Sex

Thanks bigrank916 I will be sending the money shortly. I had the first one, it was a great amp. I recently got all my amps/cd player/dash/cd's stolen so I am lucky that there is a pre sale.