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I've posted one thread similar to this one once before, But I felt the need to make one a little more clear. I own a Pontiac Grand Am. One of the worst vehicles to work with when it comes to car audio installs due to very limited room. I got an idea the other day sitting in the front seat looking back at my folded down back seats. I figured.. what if I took the open area where my seats fold down leading to my trunk area, put up one peice of 3/4 or so MDF across that opening, cutting a opening in it for the 18" BTL and another for a port that's tuned to 30-35 hz and using my entire trunk area as the enclosure, without the need to build an enitre box. Since there is not enough room in my trunk to build a logical box for an 18", this seemed like a pretty genius idea. I'd of course be covering the entire lining of the trunk with DynoMat/SecondSkin (some sort of dampener). So my question is, would this be a good idea? Or would I be making myself look like a complete idiot? Like I said, I've never seen this done so I don't know if it's logical or not. Any professional advice or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. I will be taking pictures later today to post on this thread to help get the idea across a little clearer. Thanks in advance guys! -Shag

I had my x-cons on 600-700wrms each for a long time and it does them plenty of justice man. When i went to the 3000d though it was another world. Went from a 147 on the windshield to a 150. Anyways here is a video of mine one a 1500D. http://www.youtube.com/user/MazdaCon

I have heard Q and w7s. Both are quality built speakers and both do very well as a substage. However, the Q is going to save you money. And before people go JL bashing, JL is expensive for a reason. R&D and custom tooling. If you really liked the w6, try to hear some w6v2s. Those will be just as good as your w6s when talking about a quality substage and they can get loud too. I doubt these will get nearly as loud as a Q will while retaining good response, but just a random thought. As far as Rainbow goes, overpriced from what I've seen. You will hear it over and over here, the install is more important than the product you're using.

I think you should just stick with a 15" if you have the room for that. You won't notice that big of a difference between the 15 and 18. Hell, with that sub most people will think you have two 18s in the back anyways.

build a box in the trunk as you would a wall, built inside the trunk

Big 3 Wiring for better voltage which will decrease drops and increase steady voltage at idle and bumping. You dont replace your wire, you can add on to the existing one's but is up to you if you want to replace them (depending on how simplified or complicated your wiring is such as the positive wire). Depending on the factory wires you have go with 4 gauge or bigger, 1/0 AWG is preferred and recommended especially if you have an HO Alternator. You can fuse the wire between battery and alternator if you want to this is also personal preference (some do just to be safe but if your wiring it right and tight you should be fine without it). I also recommend that you do the ground wires first just to make sure you have enough wire, connectors or whatever to finish the job. 1.) Battery's Negative post to Car's Frame. 2.) Alternator Bolt (that attaches the alternator to engine) or Engine Block to Car's Frame 3.) Battery Positive post to Alternator's Positive Terminal. *** I noticed that if you double up the wire on the battery negative to car's frame it does help out on voltage and not recommended at all just sharing my results from adding a second wire.*** For my Big 3 I did mine like this: 1.) I replaced the 4 guage wire that was on my battery's negative post going to the car's frame. I took out the old wire and added two 1/0 AWG wires. Two runs of 1/0 AWG 2.) I replaced the 4 gauge wire that was on my engine block going to the car's frame. I took out the old wire and added one 1/0 AWG wire. Engine Block Car's Frame 3.) I have not did the wire from battery's positive terminal to alternator's positive terminal yet since my main battery is in the trunk (as you can tell in above pictures). I will get around to upgrading this wire, I will not replace this wire at all. I will just simply add on 1/0 AWG wire when I get an HO Alternator but for now it is fine with the 4 gauge factory wiring.

X2 . . . For the price, a 15" BL sounds NICE. Hit's those lows like nothing else, and SQ isn't bad at all with the BL series. Just make a good enclosure and you will NOT be disappointed. If you're just looking for pound.. You can look at the BTL series.. But the price may be a smidge over your budget. Don't get be wrong though, the BL's will give you a good shake. Also, I've never heard them personally, but the XCON series SSA subs seem to be one hell of a sub.

thanks i kinda seen it coming .when i read the manual after i got them and found out that the amps when bridged together wont do under 2 ohms. so i dont know if its worth buying new subs or new amps. i never bought cadence amps before.so i dont know if they are even worth the trouble. i had a kicker 750.1 on them but its the same thing it wont go under 2 ohms,same with my kicker 550.3. Do you think these cadence amps will push 3 alpine type rs? Yeah they will push them if you strap them and wire the subs like this:

Well I'm REALLY looking into the 18" BTL.. Have all the electrical and everything done, just need the enclosure and sub. Can you think of any ways to make this idea a reality? It's about the only way I can think of to have a big enough enclosure for the 18" without taking out my back seats. I can seal the trunk as much as I possible can with it still be functional. You REALLY need to figure out your enclosure before sub shopping. If you can't fit a box for an 18" BTL then you shouldn't run it. Sealing & functional aren't going to happen.

x2, on using welding cable on electrical and car audio wire on the rest.

If only the person was as good as the sub....

The strands increase surface area, most 1 aught wires are 4,000+ strands. Stay away from the very thick wire.