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The Big 3 Are: 1. negative battery wire to ground - just replace the negative batt. terminal and wire and ground it to the factory location 2. engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chasie with a bigger wire (maybe 4 guage) 3. alternator to batt - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. DO NOT exchange wires just add a extra one. make sure it fused the same size as your factory fuse. hope thats helps Note on #2- Some cars have a batt-engine block connection stead of chassis to engine block...

Today i met up with (sound vibration)he is running 2 icon 10 inch subs off a swiss 2000 amp.His amp is only giving each woofer 400 watts,all i can say is the ssa line are the best subwoofers i have ever heard.when my brother got out his car i said "how did you like'his answer was that shit wiggled my ears! And he got some big ass ears to wiggle lol...Big ups to Mark and Denim for such a bad ass woofer..

Make sure the grounds for everything (battery, head unit, amp, etc.) have a very good ground with the paint sanded off. Sometimes cheap amps pick up noise easier than higher quality amps. If the amp is all you changed and the wires and everything stayed the same as the previous amp, the amplifier seems to be the biggest suspect. But try redoing the grounds as well. If all else fails you can get a ground loop isolator to put on the RCAs.

I have heard where the ho alternator could be a problem but I would suggest you check your amp and headunits grounds (they me be bad).

You should be talking to UPS about this, not tarnishing Fi's reputation.

Considering the circumstances I was rooting hard for AZ today I really expected that last field goal to go in but hell they pulled it off in OT anyways

I can't even see the pics

hey, before u upload any more pics, make em a little bigger, they all are as small as words,

Well if you have one btl on a SAZ-2000D, and you're adding another btl.... you can't power them both with the SAZ-2000D. Why not? x2. There's no such thing of underpowering a woofer.

Hey man, it looks like a deer might have ran into the side of your truck.

Well if you liked the sub, don't sell it to him. You don't have to give it to him just because he asks. Make him buy a new one if you want to keep your old one. Power compression is when so much power is put into a voice coil that it heats up and becomes less efficient at turning that power into sound. Basically, according to theory, if you double input power to a subwoofer you will gain 3db. However, as you reach the limits of the sub, it is not able to turn that power into sound as well. So take, for example, a 1000 watt sub. If you increase the power from 10 to 20 watts, you will probably see a 3db output increase. However, if you increase power from 500 to 1000 watts, in real life you may only see a 2.5 db increase due to power compression. If you try to double power again to 2000 watts, you may only see a 1 db increase over the 1000 watt level (given that the sub survives).

This is untrue. In fact, the more subs you have, the less power you have to feed them to keep the same output. One 15" on 1000 watts is theoretically the same as two 15s on 500 watts. To the OP, perhaps you should figure out if you want ported or sealed. If you listen to more rock I'd probably lean more towards sealed. But I'm not sure if you'll miss the output in the 20-50 hz range that the ported box would boost for you. But if you keep the BL obviously it's not recommended to go into a sealed enclosure.

I was just joking more than anything. Do they make a solid product? yes i believe they do but is it my first choice? No. I am not bias at all ive owned all different brands and they all have there pros and cons. What made me choose the x-cons was the sq and spl combination. Are the x-cons the best at one or another? no but simply put they do both with flying colors and more so the spl aspect. Enough of me talking about x-cons... To give you an honest opinion im sure you will be plenty happy with AQ but dont expect good SQ out of them. I have herd plenty of there drivers and i was never slightly impressed with the SQ. Are they pretty damn loud for the money your damn right they are and thats what they are intended for. I honestly believe if your intent is on spl go with a AA havoc or a FI Bl both sound better and are equal to, if not better in the spl aspect. Thats my opinion on the subject just take if for what its worth and im glad if this brings you any kind of help. ps... x-cons ftw

he's just asking what the loudest db rating is for any single 15" at all in any kind of setup.

hmmm, well I don't know where I read that but the best score I could find was 176 and it was with two of them, the best I could find for a single one was 154db.

I can't wait till I get my xcon, I will be posting result once I get my xcon. I will also be posting alot of ultra high quality pictures, since there seems to not be to many of those. 12mp camera

Well the last time I read about the solo-x was over a year ago when it was new to the market, and I read that it held the world record so I just figured. I didn't do a ton of research on it. I only do tons of research on what I am building, and I plan on keeping my hearing for a little while anyways lol.

must you really, if your gonna try and make me feel bad atleast back up what your typing. So I can understand and learn, that what we are here for, to learn. right?

electrical is a 320 amp alt, buying 2 D6500 batteries, for now amp will most likely be a AQX3500. box is tuned to 38hertz. i listen to rap, young jeezy, lil boosie

ok well the big 3 are three different main electrical wires under the hood of your car. and they go: -battery negative to chassis (ground) -battery positive to alternator -engine block to chassis (ground) upgrading these wires to 1/0 helps the flow of electricity throughout your cars charging system. the thicker the wire... the better the flow

im going to be running the sax-100.4 amp with a set of 6 1/2 components in the front and some 6X9 in the rear, deck is alpine cda-9885. my question is how can i run the front components speakers and the rear speakers active using the same amp ? i thought i read somewhere you can do that with this amp im just not sure how if it only has 4 channels. isn't it one channel per speaker? or should i just run the front with the amp and rear of the deck ? any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated thank you!

ok! I have just a general question on spl boxes . lets say you have a box that can do a db of 150 in a ... lets say... a suburban now lets say you have two duplicate set ups two same boxes, two same amps , two same subs and you put both boxes in the same car would you end up with 300 db? now i know its more technical then being able to stick the same boxes together to make more db's , so whats the science behind this? also i know that its hard just to have the power going to the amps for a single setup none the less two setups so lets just say the power is coming from an outside source into this suburban ones again just looking for the science to all this.

Indeed. Actually really nearly the only thing that CCF is good for. True that! I'd save an hour a day if people stopped promoting the idea that it is a barrier, an absorber or both.

what is actually making the rattle? If its two hard materials rattling against each other, putting something that is also hard on them would not make them stop rattling. Close cell foam works for those situations. Can you get pictures for more detail of what you are talking about?

Yet another person who clicks everything and simply does not read. "How long will it take to get my sub? For all Fi subs it is a 3-7 business day lead time. As all drivers are custom made when the order is placed (started the next business day if the order is placed after 12pm). Due to the ever increasing number of daily orders, we have had to change from our initial manufacturing flow process to one that is slightly more flexible and should be stable for the long term regardless of the number of orders received daily. Once we have received payment (and it has cleared) and the building process begins you will be emailed a tracking number via UPS (Quantum View). It Will say something to the extent of "Billing information received". This means that a tracking number has been assigned to your order, but it has not left the facility left. Please note that the delivery date noted in the email is assumed for same day pick up and is not correct. This will be updated once UPS picks it up and the tracking information will change to "In transit" with the correct estimated delivery date. Delivery time normally runs from 2-6 business days depending on how far you are from our Las Vegas facility." You are not buying something that is stuck on the shelf collecting dust for a UPS label to be slapped on it and out the door. You are purchasing something that is 100% made to order upon ordering. You also must consider that you ordered during the holiday season (New Years) as well as during CES...which has been going on all week. Check your tracking information.

As far as the THD rating, (I can only assume Sundown is similar to the rest) that is measured with the voltage at 14.4. The power ratings are measured at 12.8 volts. What I like about Sundown is if the amp is rated at 2000 watts (like my future SAZ-2000D) the amp will do 2000 watts at 12.8 volts and of course the power will increase as the voltage goes up to 14.4 Which means you don't need a small country to get clean reliable power from their amps. I'm not affiliated with Sundown except for I love their products, just another Car Audio addict. Besides how can you not love a company with a Mad Scientist like Jacob?

you can get some deadener. theres a couple different companies that sell it. it should fix your problem.

the foam will help a lot also when i turned my box 360 degrees and made the woofers face towards the front of my car the rattled stopped a lot and didnt rattle as much.

ok so i drive a 76' caprice with 2 treo 15's and my trunk lid is 2 seperate layers ....over the years the two layers dont stick together anymore which causes it to rattle ,sometimes louder than the bass and was just wondering if anyone could give me tips to fix this problem without weighing the lid down where it wont stay open on its own. my first thought was the canned foam stuff that expands but thats alot to fill also my cousin works for a glass company and he gaqve me a cpl rolls of that gooey black shit that seals windshields i just cant it very far into the lid. anyone got better ideas?

Just finished... had to come inside and wash all my cuts off before I could use the keyboard but I will have the review shortly

Ok review up!! Second Skin Damplifier Pro - SSA Car Audio Forum

If you want insane loudness, get either a 12" or a 18" Kicker solo-x. They may not be the bet speaker in the world, but they can reach a 170db easily even 180db if ur lucky.

Some of them on here dont understand the correlation at all.

x2

I'd say get 2 AQ1200's and strap them for 2400 rms @ 2 ohms

I'd say get 2 AQ1200's and strap them for 2400 rms @ 2 ohms x2

I am sorry but it sounds like you don't even deserve one of these subwoofers..but that's my .o2