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this is what i do, it's cheap and effective- Isolators cause a voltage drop for one so scrap that idea. Solenoids(big ass relays) is what you would want. www.oznium.com sells them for cheap cheap. Go to teh relay section and get you a 200A relay. This is how it works- For one, solenoids don't cause voltage drop so that's good. When the car is off, the batteries are "isolated". When in ignition mode(or started), the batteries are joined together. They cant fight each other because the alternator has the higher voltage level and will disperse charge to anything that needs it. Once car is off, they become "isolated" again. Now, if you replace ur front batt with a shuriken then u wouldnt need this but these things are a lot cheaper than a battery. I have used my stock battery for 3.5 years now and out of that, 1 of those years i've got over 10,000w of power in the car with xs power batts in the back separated with a solenoid. My stock batt nor my xs power batts have ever had problems and won't unless the solenoid dies... if that happens, the alt can't charge the back batts but that's what a voltmeter is for too.

I wouldn't support either product. Customer service sucks on both companies!!!! I have stated b4 on this forum that I had a 12" XXX reconed and it took months to get back. I have credit at a store that sells re audio, so I bought the NEW XXX 15 that was supposed to be at the ces on Jan 10, I believe.... It's feb 15 and I still haven't received it...... Rd has never answered my phone calls or responded to my emails..... You can buy re audio on ebay for pretty cheap, if you look at the XXX, there are alot of refurbs.... Just like kicker and mtx's which I would never buy again..... Like others said on this forum, get a product from this store that has been proven..... Just state it you want it to get low or just loud since SQ is all preference.....

Mounting vertically (with one end up) is actually the second best method of mounting the amp, next to laying flat. Obviously laying flat allows the heat to rise directly off of the amp. But mounting vertically allows the hot air to move smoothly up between the cooling fins. When mounted upright but horizontally (ends to left and right), the heat can get trapped a bit in the cooling fins since it has to move laterally out in one way or another when it's down at the base of the cooling fins. Air doesn't move laterally as well as vertically if heat is the only thing causing the air movement since it just wants to rise.

Sorry. It seems to get a lot of traffic, so I thought it would be an appropriate place. The subs are Dual 2 ohm. Also, I can buy subs without any posts, yet I need 25 to sell them. Kind of backwards. Incorrect. Not backwards in the slightest. Please follow the rules set in place for a reason. A site this large and this old with this many experienced staff members, is not going to have backwards rules.

If you want to keep the starting battery in the front and use the Shuriken in the back then you should use a isolator since the resting voltage is much lower on your starter battery. What will happen is that Shuriken battery in the back will start charging the starting battery until it's discharged to the resting voltage of the starter battery when your car is off. Now this will be a problem in the long run, since AGM batteries don't like resting at a low voltage. If you replace your starting battery with the Shuriken BT-120 you bought, then I think you'll get a bit low voltage at the amplifiers int he back. And you will loose some AH since you're not using the battery in the front. The best thing you can do is to buy another Shuriken battery to replace the one in the front and use the BT-120 in the back close to the amplifiers. This way your ESR will be about the same and the batteries will not charge each other (to some extent). You will get a higher Ah rating in the system, and your voltage at the amplifiers will be higher.

Woofer of Mass Destruction.

Dual 18" Mael-X Build - Home Audio Forum Bah definately no need for it tonight. I don't have the wood or a saw even. Father in law said i could go over to his house. I'm trying to get him amped to help me with projects.... He's not gonna have anything to do after march 12th...

You are not allowed to sell on this forum. You have to have atleast 25 posts. Please read the rules and next time you post this will you include if these are Dual 2 or Dual 1.

I'm glad Sean was hard on my when I joined, you learn so much more if you just stop typing verbal diarrhea and read, invest your time in reading here, and here. There is a welth of knowledge on this forum, and you don;t need to talk to anyone or ask questions to find it. Read first, try to understand the concepts, then ask questions.

Goals are backwards anyways. Don't buy 3k to puff your attitude, buy 3k because you need it...otherwise it is a waste of money. As for the if you have to ask comment, I'd take it one step further. By the tone of your thread it is obvious you don't have a lot of experience with this. Running 3kW even to a sub that "can take it" will probably result in a dead sub in your case. Something smaller would benefit you first. Otherwise you'll just be spending more in the long run anyways. As always, start with your goals, desires, and budget and ask what to do. You'll get WAY better help for your specific situation.

hmm... subs up port back always tends to be the typical best for suvs. You can run as little as a few inches from the door, doesnt have to be a foot or more back. Also, if u still prefer not to do that, when porting up, make sure it's all the way at the back of the box and pretty f'in wide! You may also wanna attach some pvc to it so u can flare the port. I just did the math on the box size.. it's not large enough for 3 18s to be efficient for competition. However... if u line all the batts down the side, depth-wise, you will gain almost 3 full cuft! I recommend doin that then staggering the subs up top so they fit.

Big power out of 1 amplifier chassis of korean and/or chinese descent = big problems for speakers. The only way you CAN do it properly is how jbl/crown did it with the A6000GTi which was an a/b amplifier. Bigger and bigger class D switching power supplies, and H bridge motor controller amplifiers will yield nothing but problems and hell on speaker parts. My grandmother always said "If you don't want to listen boy you'll have to feel..." SWITCHING FREQUENCY OF THIS "GREAT" CLASS D TECHNOLOGY MICROWAVES THE VERY SPEAKER PARTS THAT THE AMPLIFIER WAS NEVER DESIGNED FOR! ..it works great on a resistor...until you put it in the real application that it belongs in...then 1+1 makes 3...and speakers die. :shakes head...walks away:

You can bet that people are going to break these. Excesive vibration, wiring too low or low voltage aren't things that should be covetred by warranty. Curious to see the guts on the AB1100.1 and the SPL dyn version...I sure hope it isn't another discussion like the bxi2608 vs aq2200 and there is real proof that they are different.

No. Tuning frequency depends on net box volume, port area, and port length. The sub doesn't matter at all except for its physical displacement, but most of the time if you just guess it's close enough to not matter.

I would say a 12" ported over a 15" sealed. . . t/s parameters of the sub and the box design determine how low the sub will play, not the size of the cone. . .

read here --> Attention NOOBS!!!! - SSA Car Audio Forum then try and post again

Soldering is always the best idea. Some like to crimp slightly, just enough to hold the terminal in place. Then solder it also. A small torch and the small roll of solder is plenty for the big 3 a couple of times over. You can find this at the depot for less than $10. I dont crimp at all anymore, personally. After getting the hang of working with the solder, I dont want to use anything else. Just heat the terminal and shove the solder in until it starts to overflow.

Actually the 10s have copper coils but I have used 12s with aluminum coils. If you know what you're doing then they will take 3k daily. A lot of the handling with be in the box. The SSDs have 3" voice coils so thermally they will take it. Subsonic filter and box tuning will help with mechanical limits. All the other choices are great too especially if you don't know what you're doing to run the SSDs on 1.5k watts each. But I never asked what amp you got or if you even have the amp yet.

Because QueenMOAB said so.

I am getting a recone from a high quality company, one from this site. Enough said, am not going to get nothing else from this thread so thanks to all that lend their input.

That was real informative^, no need for all caps though. Check out one of the vendors on here such as Fisher Customs.

oh well... hope he has a nice box now.