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Really? These "this vs that" threads are worthless when comparing quality products such as Sundown and RF. Most of what I have heard is "I heard this about brand B" or "Brand A is overrated and not worth the money". Look at amps being compared and compare feature for feature. If it fits your budget and it's what your looking for then buy it. Everybody has an opinion and will suggest what they like. It's up to you to make the final decision on what you get. Sundown is a small company that prides itself on it's products, customers and customer service. Rockford Fosgate is a large corporation. They make great amps and the reputation over the years should explain that. Whenever I have needed help or had questions their Tech Dept was more than helpful. So toss a coin on which is better!

It will work, but you have to make sure it's VERY strong. Making pods for smaller speakers is one thing, but a large sub with lots of power is a different monster. No air bubbles, lots and lots of layers, and even rope in between the fibergalss. Yes, people use MDF because it's easier and MDF is better if glassing is not done correctly. Is there a reason you want to glass? You can shape your box with MDF and make a beauty panel. Heck even make a beauty panel out of glass if you want. Are you trying to fit to a certain shape in your car for stealth?

haunted and tormented.

I seen you where thinking about the ZED Leviathan. I am VERY interested in this amp also. SO MUCH SO i will probably replace my F600 and RF400 for just the one ZED amp. i just got done reading a review about the Leviathan in the feb/mar edition of Performance Auto & sound. Sounds like Steven Mantz just gets better and better the more he builds.

Very sorry for your loss Trevor, those things are allways hard on a family. My best wishes. Not much to say here. You are under the impression that this is for competition? That would be the only reason for tuning to one's internal frequency, to achieve the best possible numbers. Have you ever heard of people just tuning low and building for sheer street beat? That is obviously what is happening in this build. If you like purely spl, thats great, but not all who build stereo's of this size are going for a one note wonder. (they like music) Try and respect others opinions, and not pretend everyone has the same interests as you. Have a nice day

Still working on it! Will PM it when done!

Listed under the Incriminator section! Or on the website! Do a little work and search!

A line driver or gain adjustment is not the solution to your problem. The solution is to identify the source of the noise, and solve that problem. Please read the sticky on how to troubleshoot noise issues located HERE If your issue is related to grounds, for example, then a line driver may actually compound the issue rather than "solve" anything.

What KU40 gave you will work out just fine! I have no Sketchup here at work but maybe I can use Paint and work something up for you.

so you wnat to blast your car all day long at a comp i assume with the car on or with a battery charger right? umm as for AH first lets look at the definition Ampere-hour(s): A measure of battery capacity. A 4Ah battery could, for instance, deliver 1A for 4 hours, 1/2A for 8 hours, etc. keep in mind ppl like to use around 150-300amp( 1500-3000rms~) setups so for extended periods of time having a boat load of batteries or a simple charging unit on the batteries is ideal! so with that being said the more AH the long you can use your batteries with the car off and no charger... this is only safe if you keeping an eye on your voltage meter! but if you have a alt (car on) or battery charger constantly charging up the front/read batteries ah is THAT important, although ppl i talk to tend to think otherwise! plus with the battery in the front and battery in the rear the AH adds up! also the require AH is roughly half the amout of require fusing for your amp! for example my SAZ2000 requires a 200amp fuse so i need at least 100AH to run that amp with the car off for any extended amount of time! but with the car on (charging it up) i will not need that much AH to support the amp! does this help some..if not i got a few information video's i can share about AH and batteries and what not!

Making that recommendation doesn't tell him the exact minimum amount of port area needed to avoid port noise. so you are telling me that he will have port noise with 15-17 per and it will be audible???? are you a dumbass, or just a dumbass. my recommendation is not telling him the minimum amount or port area needed without port noise, its giving him a proper starting point for a daily system with lots of output. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Both are good amps. Comes down to which one fits your budget.

Here read this: BTL Enclosure Recommendations - SSA Car Audio Forum Tuning to 30Hz wont be a problem at all since it is recommended, I just wouldnt go down to 25hz unless you listen to a lot of pipe organ music or chopped and screwed tunes. Tuning lower than recommended will yield output in the higher frequency ranges but give it the ability to dominate the lows and vice versa as well.

Cool, are you satisfied with it? What was the output of your stock alt? Before mine finally failed it was running like a champ, 140amp alt, but it was 15 years old and I imagine that I put quite a bit of stress on it so it was only a matter of time before it failed. I just didn't expect it to take out a few electrical circuits when it did (turns out they are really sensitive to voltage ) Im very satisfied with it. I believe my stock alt was about 80-85 amps and I had epic headlight dimming BEFORE I installed the BTL. After installation of big 3 in 1/0 and the Mechman alt, I get hardly any dimming at all and my voltage stays in the mid to high 13s at almost full tilt. This is with one battery too. I still have my old one just in case because there wasnt anything wrong with it. I was looking at Iraggi but at that time he had disappeared and I wasnt too sure what was happening. Now that he is back and trying to make up for poor customer service during his sabbatical, I think I might give the 180 amp a try for my geo. I wanted his from the start because they all have higher output at idle versus Mechman. For my vehicles anyway.

Making that recommendation doesn't tell him the exact minimum amount of port area needed to avoid port noise. so you are telling me that he will have port noise with 15-17 per and it will be audible???? are you a dumbass, or just a dumbass. my recommendation is not telling him the minimum amount or port area needed without port noise, its giving him a proper starting point for a daily system with lots of output. While it will reduce port noise your recommendation will make mechanical failure more likely. My estimation gives the OP the minimum amount of port area needed to reduce the likelihood of port noise as well as reduce the chances of mechanical failure. You recommending 15-17 proves your stupidity and your lack of understanding of enclosure design. Stop making recommendations as all of them have been proven incorrect. get real dumbass, no one is going to use 29sq inches per for a daily system. what a retard. stop making like you know. and when were my recommendations proven wrong? or are you talking outta your ass.

no i think it would be better to listen to duran, 29sq inches of port per cube sounds spot on for a DAILY SYSTEM.

post it.