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Why would you want T/S parameters? Just use the recommended port area/tuning/airspace they recommend and then change boxes if u wan't it to sound better. If they would post T/S parameters for all the subs with all the upgrades, then they would have like 10 T/S parameters per sub. They already have 36 different T/S parameters. If they would make T/S parameters for every sub with it's own upgrade they would have over 100+ different T/S parameters.

I can't believe so many people are worried about the color, when for the price difference you could have the thing custom airbrushed. Aesthetics are one of the last things I'm concerned about with an amplifier.

It's a little more involved than that. Having an understanding of the electrical engineering involved....what the parts are and why they are there.....is going to be useful and necessary. Understanding why something was damaged is vitally important. The damaged part that's easy to see might have been damaged as a result of something less obvious to see. Ofcourse there are always simple fixes like an old cap that simply went bad. But things aren't necessarily going to be that easy and in some cases some diagnostic work will be required. If you don't understand anything about the operation of an amplifier, then you aren't going to be able to do this. If you want to learn how to repair amplifiers, I would start with learning how amplifiers are designed. If you have to ask what's necessary equipment to repair an amplifier, then you aren't ready to start repairing amplifiers.

1/3 octave is descriptive assuming they start at the standard 31.5, if not they aren't following the IEC. In that case though, your pick on location. Both can work well. Trade-offs are stage height versus a bit of stage confusion by the extreme driver separation. Personally I'd probably choose the height, but that is a bit up to you. The other way of choosing is which is more effort and likely to work for you. What do you think?

I understand that other shops that do so-called "Refurbishing" DO SUCK and I have seen their work so I know first hand, but we don't do that kind of work, and I think, although not required, after finding the speaker wire short, I would like an apology....

here's the x-over settings on the H100

Not picking on you today ///5M, but my Clarion 9375 w/9300 did 4.2 volts at 30/33 volume. The Clarion DRZ9255 (states 4v) tested 9volts!! Yea that deck is in a different league.... And yes that was w/a 60 Hz tone. Good luck hitting anywhere near those voltages with music and normal listening levels Ofcourse a deck is going to reach it's rated voltage with a 0db test tone near max volume.....which is extremely useful if you drive around listening to 0db test tones near max volume all day long. For the rest of us who listen to music at normal listening levels, we aren't going to see those voltages in actual use. And how did you test distortion levels during those measurements?

And refurbed for the same price. i would rather have a black than a very gold amplifier but do what you want.

you can easily get a used saz-3000d for ~550 dollars.

I was just having you clarify what you didn't like to try to find a solution for something else. Not having any experience with that comp set makes it hard, which is why all the questions although I don't think it was super helpful. I assume you've tried some cuts at the annoying frequencies to no avail. Considering this is a jump for you into the active realm, I'd pick drivers on the easier side to integrate. In particular since you are sensitive to ranges where cone breakup is a concern (or your current drivers really fail there). That being said, generically this would be a paper (or similarly forgiving cone) midrange and a tweeter. If you can fit one, a large format tweeter will generically also make the integration easier as they will be more forgiving allowing the use of lower slopes and crossover points for the same dollars spent. I am sure you've stated a budget somewhere, but let us know if a large format (4" baffle or so) tweeter will fit, its mounting locations and the max driver size for the mid and its mounting location.

Instead of quoting I'll just respond. Passive crossovers for cars are full of assumptions and compromises. Having this done for a 2way is bad enough, but for three it is terrible. All decent crossover designs take the baffle, driver orientation, driver location to each other, and room placement into account. Obviously none of these are done for a 3 way passive for a car. The result is always a mess. I've never heard a set that I thought sounded worth a damn. 3 way active on the other hand can work out really well, but for someone who has never had an active setup the same problems exist as with the passive in that most definitely they will not integrate things right. There is a reason that seasoned vets will tell you that all good sounding systems are 90% in the install. This install includes tuning as well as mounting and it is darn impossible to do that with a 3 way passive.

Also remember to keep the loudness feature off. From what I've heard it clips it pretty hard too. So no loudness or bass boost.

not yanking it below tuning, on tones i got the sub to its max on excursion wise... so im not sure if thats a bad thing for a burp? i have the subsonic set with my oscope to 32 hz, box tuning is 34 hz. any tips on getting the excursion level down while still maintaining the same decibel number? also im competing in a division that clamps the amp, so playing the note closest to the box tuning will show less power actually being thrown at the sub? Thanks guys Then that isn't where your box is tuned to... At tuning frequency that should be where your excursion is the absolute least and your impedance is highest. it is the absolute least and it where my score is the highest as well: im pretty sure its tuned to 34 hz... and i think its getting used to the power and stuff now, causer the cone gets very little warm compared to the first day i put the 3000 in. id like to think that because the sub was on only 1000wrms for about a month it got used ot it and then when it hrew some power at it it was like: "holy shit what is this!!!" then its like "oh thats not so bad..." lol. but you guys make great subs thats for sure, just dont want to blow it.. Warm isn't an issue..if you smell coil then that's an issue. The dustcap is going to feel warm because that is right above where the coil is and what is actually pumping the air forcing it down around and out of the holes in the baskets... You never 'peak' at your tuning frequency...you 'peak' generally higher then what you are tuned to (for the most part, i have had scenarios where random things would happen and it would not be true) generally you peak 3-8Hz above the actual tuning frequency of the enclosure, unless you have something weird going on with the car that it only likes 'this' note regardless of what you put in it and how you tune it... I also said absolute highest impedance ..it's where power is least, cone movement is least and more heat builds up in the coil because it is not moving resulting in the impedance being the highest point...lowest is going to be where it moves the most, the coil cools the most and is the closest to the DCR (generally)...and it will be on the bottom side of the tuning point as well (sloping on the left side of the curve vs. tuning frequency) You have to map all of this out with voltage / current meters and plot a curve in excel..then you figure out impedance vs. frequency and there ya go..

It's the information that you get that is a sticker stuck on the outside of the box that says KEEP YOUR PACKAGING! and either a green/blue/white paper that tells you all about subsonic filters...and posted all over the internet in in the "MY SPEAKER BROKE YALL SUCK" type threads ..when it's never any fault of the sub..always roots back to no subsonic filter and/or too much gain and/or having a stock charging system and trying to run 10kw off of it because they saw a video on the internet and they can do it too... It's just like buying a brand new car and setting the cruise control on...and aiming for a bridge going down the interstate and driving the car right into the wall. Speakers are stupid...they do exactly what you tell them to do in the environment in which you place them in ...very much like the car that you drove into the wall They don't commit suicide just because it felt like it lol. Hope this helps

Word to the wise..speakers are no different then an engine and are very mechanical... You can have a "racing engine" and get all of the stuff that is "amazing" for it, rods, pistons, gaskets, arp studs etc etc etc...and then slam diesel fuel in it or kerosene fuel..fire it up because hey it's fuel it'l burn and take off down the road..you make it about 1/4 of a mile before the engine leans out and locks up. Power doesn't come out of thin air..you can't expect to have BTL's a stock alternator...and a battery..and a 24awg ground wire because the amp "turns on" with that... Hope you figured out what you did wrong before you caused damage to the speaker...otherwise that's going to be an expensive 'oops' of getting entirely too excited and trying to run a marathon before even knowing how to walk

So as some of you may know, for some reason some force doesn't want me to get my system together and up and running. My thread explaining previous issues Well i also had problems with my refurbished saz-3000d from db-r which i also started my own thread. Sundown problems SO the sundown came back in the mail today as planned and needless to say, i was very excited. Finally my system was going to be up and running!! I mean, what else could go wrong??? Well, as it currently seems the sundown was not probably repaired. Here's what happened: I hooked up the amp probably as the manual indicated. I set the subsonic to about ~25 hz range. gain was zero. Bast boost was zero. subwoofer volume on HU all the way up. So i turned the gain to about 1/4 and turned the volume slowly up on the head unit and i was getting no output. So i turned the bass boost up a little and then it went into protect mode. keep in mind the volume on the head unit was about 7 at this time. So i messed around with gain and bass boost settings trying different combos (boost zero, gain up, gain zero, boost up, all sorts of things). Now unlike before i sent the amp to db-r, i could get the BTL to move! But just a little little bit. i couldn't really even hear it, but with my finger tips on the dust cap i could feel it. SO whenever i tried to get any realistic output, the amp would go into protect mode. So i un-hooked the speaker cable and everything went fine then. I used a DMM to estimate the output to around 2000 watts on a 35hz test tone at HU volume 20. With the sub hooked up again, it went into protect mode at volume level 6. so THEN i decided to check the grounds and noticed my ground point was a body ground, not a chassis ground. so i connected that bolt straight to the chassis and decided to test everything again! The same story happened except for after the second time the amp went into protect after the upgraded ground, it stayed in protect. Its doing exactly what it did before i sent it back to db-r. With everything unhooked (RCA's and speaker cable) the amp still goes straight into protect. no matter what i do straight into protect. I even tested it with some 4 gauge power and ground wires i use for my alpine 3522. This is what db-r had to say about my 3000: It has some bad outputs. I see that before refurbing it had same problem, so I was very cautious with it this time. I am pretty sure I found the problem. When I went to turn the volume up just a little on the bench I heard a little pop sound inside (like electrical arcing) so I turned it off and looked really good for anything shorting or broken and I noticed that these 2 coils, right in front of the relays, the factory had installed them too close together and they had been rubbing each other and causing a short from one side of the output banks to the other before the relays. I put a piece of heavy plastic wedged in between the 2 and siliconed it in place and now no more problems (so far) will test it for a while this morning on the batteries at higher volume to make sure it is now stable. I have a few things to say about this. And please try to understand, this is my only experience with sundown. It seems like this amp missed a quality control check?? He even said that it left the factory like that. So do they test the amps before sending them out? I assume they do and mine just missed the ticket.. and then i'm assuming some guy bought it, had my problem, and sent it back. Then it appears that db-r missed this problem and sent it to me when i purchased it from db-r. THEN even after sending it back to db-r, it appears the problem still isn't fixed. Now i'm not saying that db-r didn't test the hell out of this amp after i sent it to them. I'm just saying it doesn't function properly. I don't see how i could have ever harmed it any way. To make sure there isn't some problem on my end, i'm either going to borrow a buddies amp or have my fathers friend who works at Bose take a look at it. Needless to say, my father and i both believe that there is no way we could have harmed it. So i hate to have bad feelings and i like to think i handle these situations pretty well, but it's getting pretty hard to keep my faith in Sundown. In all honestly, i hope i'm doing something wrong on my end which i'll figure out within this week. If i have been doing everything properly, which i think i have, i'm not sure what i want to do. I know for DAMN sure i don't want to pay to ship this thing back to db-r AGAIN. the fact that i had to pay $30 to ship it back to them for a mistake they made in the first place is atrocious and i'll be deeply saddened if they make me do so again. If the amp is indeed faulty due to means outside of my control, i'm not sure if i want to see it again which sucks cause i don't know if they have another saz-3000d laying around or if they would even be willing to hand it over as an exchange! But as of right now, i'm unsure if i want that one back even if they fix it. Maybe i can get a refund? Hell they will make money if they do since i got it on some sort of sale (%10 or %20 i think). I really, really hope it doesn't come to that point because i want a damn Sundown! After all this work i want to see what these bad boys can do! I haven't had the chance! So if anyone has actually read all this, does anyone have any advice? At all? Thanks for reading

Yeah within this week i'm going to try to test another amp on the wiring and test the sundown in another car. So far though it looks like my setup is okay after some DMM stuff but the only real way to assess it is to test it! And my guess is that Chris' fix didn't really fix. Either that or another problem evolved out of the sundown! I very much doubt that he did anything half-ass to send my way. He probably doesn't want to ever see my 3000 again like i never want to see that protection light again.

Thanks for all the replies! And i haven't talked to Jacob other than him telling me to contact db-r the first round of the issue. For the most part i was talking to Chris i believe. And yeah i was a little heated before, it's just so frustrating after all this time of trying to get my BTL to move! You guys are right about buying a refurbished product, i should expect such problems. Now it may take me a few more hours to calm down to the point of wanting to pay $30 to have this shipped back. ha. And just the turn around time sucks since it takes 5 business days to ship there. So i'll give them another chance and i mean hey, i could have done something wrong too! I'm human as well as they are. and to CrazyKenKid, i don't know about you, but i would never spent $600 on an amplifier or any electronic with a 10 or 20 day warranty. hahaha

2000w on a stock alt is probably fine.

I ran 1500w @ 1ohm in a Sunfire (90A alt) and the lights didn't dim on a stock battery. I never checked the voltage.

DD. quick question gets quick answer.

Not revolve my life around car audio?