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On a 4runner, I think you can run a 1500 watts amp like a Sundown saz, easily ! The saz 2000 would be a nice match for this sub. Like we told you several times, get a voltmeter to watch your voltage when you're playing music! 1) Do the big3 in 0 ga first. 2)Then install your amp (1500 to 2000 watts rms, the pre sale on the sundown 2500 is a" hellova" deal !!!), and the volt meter. 3) Check your voltage with engine off(should be around 12.5 v). Then engine on at iddle (around 14 - 14.4 v). Then, when you're at "full" volume(with the right gain setting though). 5) If you see voltage under 13 v, you must do some upgrades somewhere in your electrical system : HO alt, batts,...? Come back here with all the voltage informations, and they will told you what you can do. Hope that helps.

Alton brought up a good point with the phase. There are two different types of phase; Relative phase and absolute phase. The wiring of the speakers (having the positive wire from the amp connected to the positive terminal on the speaker) is relative phase. How the sound waves interact at the listening position (the "peak" of the soundwave from one speaker and the "peak" of the sound wave from the 2nd speaker both arriving at the listening position at the same time) is absolute phase. Relative phase isn't important. What we want is the speakers to be in absolute phase. Achieving this may require that we wire the speakers out of relative phase (reverse the polarity of one speaker relative to the other). Or, in other words, try reversing the speaker wires on one of the mids. Instead of connecting positive from the amp or crossover to positive on the speaker, try connecting the positive wire from the amp or crossover to the negative speaker terminal (and neg from the amp/crossover to pos on the speaker). This may help put the speakers in absolute phase in the midbass frequencies at the listening position, improving response. One word about phase, though. Since all wavelengths are different, some frequencies will be out of absolute phase while others will be in absolute phase. And reversing relative polarity will cause some frequencies to now be out of absolute phase while others will now be in absolute phase. This is one of the allures to using a 3-way front stage....you can wire the midranges out of relative phase without affecting the midbass (or vise versa). So, long story short.....just because all of the positives are wired to all of the positives doesn't mean everything is "in phase" when it reaches your head Unless I've still missed it.....where are your mids currently highpass? The crossover that comes with the speaker only handles lowpassing the mid, not highpassing it.

i would say go with a SAZ2500! they are on pre-sale right now for 525 each!!!! that would be plenty of power for that sub plus extra down the road for a potential upgrade! other then that maybe pop onto db-r site for a awesome reburb amp for a damn good deal! Refurbished Amplifiers : dB-r Electronics, Online Store and SAZ-2500D Pre-Sale OPEN - SSA Car Audio Forum but if you are dead set on the above listed amps i would get the saz 1500 they are beasts!!!!! and here is the clamp test if you haven't seen it yet Uniform Amp Clamp Test - SSA Car Audio Forum

I have not used this myself but found this site Ultimate Polyfill Subwoofer Enclosure Resource [audiojunkies] give it a read. Sounds convincing, but havn't tried yet. Hope this give a little insite.

Welcome .... I would advise reading through these to get yourself familiar with ways of SSA. Attention NOOBS!!!! - SSA Car Audio Forum Sound Solutions Audio Membership - SSA Car Audio Forum

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=lzP91Rn0wSE USA USA USA USA USA USA!

If you can port through the deck and fire through the pass though, and still have plenty of air space for 15's, it is worth a shot.

Paper cones can be just as strong as basically any other cone material. It's not your everyday copy-paper type. Many subs use paper cones and have no issues. Do not count a driver out based on this.

Okay Chop, at your request pics of the tubes from the rear, side, how they stay put, and the Neutrik Speakon connector that makes them easy to disconnect for removal: So there ya go.... sorry they're dirty and the paint is starting to get beat up.... they see alot of abuse, in and out of the van, piling stuff on top, my wife's crazy driving

reduces inductance and outside interference . Leave em twisted.

I know this is unprofessional of me....but i'm all out of options....you guys are all i got!

Ok....here's the story .....i have been winning all this month on "System of the Month" on SMD.....well as of last night these brits i'm up against went and spammed up like 55 votes! Well....i want you guys to help me return the favor....i don't care if you have an account or want to make 20 accounts! If your banned from SMD change your IP...i need help taking these red coats out! And no disrespect to any site....i just need some back-up! Here's a link.... June 2010 SOTM VOTE, Sponsored by Audio Savings - SMD Forum Thanks for any and all help!