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Heres the update of the last weeks work. I spent most of the week listening for resonations in the door and correcting them. I am making sure the driver is mounted solid before proceeding, since this was MOST of the cause for the other drivers death. A quick A B comparison of the 10 and 12, who do you think won? Heres the 10"...... And the 12".... Since the biggest goal is making the door solid I started with 3/4" birch and bolted that as heavily as possible. Da' fasteners's.... Me assholes and elbows...... And another assholes and, hey wait wheres the elbows..... I added several bolts since this pic...... bolt shot.... A sandwiched the LLP as a big gasket between the metal and ply..... and with the door shut.... Next I trimed the rest of the LLP off that wasn't under the ply and started layering Damplifier and Damp Pro in the most troubled areas. Also note more bolts where possible..... This is a GREAT time to make sure the window and door opener still function. VERY IMPORTANT. The biggest trouble spot was along the top edge of the door skins, due to no support in that area with the bigg span. Most areas along the top inner and outer skins are up to 4 layers to control the 12" released energy..... Back to the door panel....... gettin' ready to chop some more... And after surgery... And test fitting... And another angle, This is 2 full layers of 3/4" and 3 rings stacked on that so 5 layers deep at the driver. And another angle.... and another.... There will be one more beauty ring on the stack.... And ashot of where the switch will be. I will be rabbiting in a shelf to mount the switches in, and also do a few more cross supports under the plastic. Then the plan is to permanetly attact the panel to the door and fill it with expanding foam and fiberglass inplace. So this week I have pretty much stopped the panel resonation and can NOW hear what the driver is doing!!!!! My next step is to glue ALL the birch layers together for a lamination effect, brace the plastic, fill with foam, fiberglass and so on.......SO stay tuned.

I'm getting ready to venture into my largest build to date. A pair of 15's off a 3K watt amp. Here is a little about the 1/0 cable I bought. What do we have here? 100ft of Radaflex 1/0 welding cable. 42lbs of copper cabling. ID markers on the cable. This stuff is good to 195 degrees Fahrenheit. I recommend some fiberglass/foil insulation for under hood use. Also avoid running this by any exhaust components. The outside diameter measures right at 5/8" The strands outside diameter measure around 7/16" There are 1580 strands of 32 AWG copper wire. A shot of my high tech measuring equipment. Verification that the measuring equipment properly zeros out. Resistance measurement of the 100ft of cable. Maximum rated resistance for 1000ft at 68 degrees Fahrenheit is .106 ohms Here is a flexibility test. Not too shabby. I bough this cable online through CableYard.com Pricing varies on quantity ordered. Free shipping is offered for orders over $250 of Radaflex cables. They accept paypal, which is very convenient. I placed my order, got a confirmation e-mail with in minutes. Unfortunately there was no tracking number provided, so I was kind of left hanging on when the item shipped. I'm pretty sure I would have been provided one if I called. Calling was not needed because my order arrived a couple of days after I placed my order. Even though Cable Yard is in Georgia the Cable came from Houston Tx. Here is a link to the PDF brochure for Radaflex cables. My link As I start my build I'll update this thread with any new findings, performance wise and quality wise as well.

A shot of the fleabay wire Impious is refering to on the left. The right side is the Knu Knoncepts CCA. (which isn't much better)

Will a 320 amp alternator be able to handle the (2) SAZ-3500, with (2) XS Power D3100s, OR will i need two more D3100s? I'd go for 2 more batts for sure you need a buffer to suply current in peaks its not a constant... don't be so affraid of a little voltage drop , with 320Amps you'll be just fine eventhough the amps will draw more at times

lol why would you even compare the two

i can put a 6000 watt amp on a single 8 inch kicker VR and it would be fine.... its the user and the controls that make or break this question... you can blow a BTL on a 800 watt amp if you dont know what your doing... see where this is going? amps dont blow subs .... users blow subs. that amp is no where close to 2400 watts by the way, that amp will work on that sub.. but your gonna need to place your setting very carefully.. as thats dirty power IMO. the BTL handles over 3500 watts clean daily power if used correctly.

recones.

I's say from a firecracker to a 5 kiloton thermonuclear warhead

lol at thread

so much fail in this thread What till you get your car to go about this process, just my .02