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What exactly separates this driver from the other entry/mid level priced drivers already on the market? What differentiates it from the competition? Why should someone buy a VVX-12 instead?

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE IB3S ITS NOT THE APPLICATION THE IB3S ARE AS LOUD AS WERE EXPECTED. THE 22S WERENT OUT YET. NOW I REALIZE WHEN THEY ARE, THEY ARENT GONNA MOVE AS FAR AS I ASSUMED THEY WOULD IF I PUT MAELSTROM X, AVALANCHE, OR RL-P, I WILL NOT GAIN ANYTHING FROM 20HZ DOWN

Here are some more pics. I finished the box two days ago. I used a gray textured spray paint. I have used it on a couple of friend's boxes. I really like how it turns out. The port has flat black spray on/inside it. Really like how this box turned out. I'm not sure why it looks like a light spot in the paint on top edge of box. In person it does not seem that way. I will also post this in the build log section. Hope you guys enjoyed the pictures.

If they're in separate chambers then you're fine and don't need to take the second sub out. And I don't take offense, I probably should have elaborated in my last post. Basically with only one sub hooked up in a chamber meant for two subs, that one sub is seeing twice the volume of the box that it should. Even though you may have a (example) 2 cube box with 2 subs, when both subs are playing, each sub only "sees" 1 cube itself. However, if only one sub is playing, it "sees" all 2 cubes. Mechanical power handling decreases as box size increases because the air spring behind the sub is not as tight. As a sub plays and the cone moves, it compresses the air within the box. The more air that's in the box, the more the cone of the sub has to move to compress the air to the same pressure. Does that make sense? The compressed air within the box is acting against the cone of the sub as it moves inwards, towards the inside of the box, therefore helping to limit the excursion of the sub. Likewise, when the cone moves outwards, there is actually less pressure within the box than there is in the outside world, so that helps to suck the cone back in. However, if there is more air within the box, the sub can move farther because the pressure within the box is not building as high on the instroke and does not put as much counteracting force on the back side of the cone. To view an easy example of this take a sub out of a box and play it free air and note how high you can turn the volume knob before the sub has reached full excursion (warning, be careful as this will be with very little power). Then place the sub into the box and notice how much higher you can turn the volume knob (power) before the sub reaches full excursion. The free aired sub is the extreme of having no back pressure on the cone at all, so it moves very easily and is only dependent on the surround and spider of the sub to keep the cone from just flying off.

Pictures or lies.

I agree with porkchop, you would be better of with a custom made box (if you can find someone locally to make you a box it can be done for under $50-100, dont go to a stereo shop). Just my .02 Honestly someone on here or me can help you design and give you step by step info to do it and you could build your own for under $50, just a thought.

Man it sounds like you are going about this right, good luck and cant wait for this build to get off the ground .

He had it under his other company name and then some scamming issues went down. Bad rep is probably why he changed to this name.