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HERE ARE OUR NEW LINE ANY QUESTIONS ?????????

Red part is just because the people don't build the correct box for it. Xcon buyers are most of the time more aware how to build the correct box or/and the manufacturer's specs are closer to a good enclosure.

We've created a blog to clarify a lot of questions in this market and here is just one of the many we're going to have. Enjoy: http://blog.dcpowerinc.com/2010/09/05/the-benefits-of-high-voltage/

imho, better quality, great customer service, and cheaper. The dcon and icon drivers are great, I personally owned a couple icons and loved them. They were the best sounding drivers I've ever listened to.

I would post this in the Fi forum since Scott is the one who designed these woofers.

Sundown 1200...with what you listed as far as getting loud I'm guessing itl look like this: (2) 12 re>(1) 12 fi bl> (1) 12 fi q...if your looking to do a dual 12 set up some other woofers to look into are the SSDs by FI or some of the SSA woofers. Qs going to be the sound quality woofer but every woofer listed isn't going to sound bad by any means. Good luck with your search FI for the win though!!

I'd personally leave stock in the back and run that off of head unit power, then just amp the fronts. You will barely hear the rears regardless so why spend the money. This options saves you from having to buy a more expensive 4 channel as opposed to the 2 channel, and saves you from buying rears. That'll save you $X amount of money and put that towards your substage. I've done quite a few stereos like, and once you add the sub you'll never even notice.

So we know at minimum you are going to need to at minimum spend some $ on upgrading some wires as Phatboi said. Sounds like you pretty much understand what's necessary there. Depending on where you get your wire and how much you need, you'll probably end up spending ~$50 or so on that. Working on a budget, welding cable is a great option. I'll let others give you links if you need. I wouldn't necessarily spend $ on a battery yet. I would recommend saving some money back so that you aren't taxing your budget in the event you need one, but I'd recommend getting everything installed first and seeing how your electrical system behaves before spending money. It's up to you though. If you want to buy one now so that you have it, more power to you (does that qualify as a pun?). I generally dislike giving specific production recommendations since there are so many products available and it's hard to account for everyone's taste and preferences. Generally I try to stick with getting the conversation headed in the appropriate direction and let others take over from there But I would keep the system no larger than around ~1kw or so in power given the electrical you'll be running. You are obviously going to want a ported enclosure (seems like you already have that under control) and subwoofers designed primarily for that purpose. I'm not sure off hand how much space an Altima has, or the setup of the rear seats. But you are probably going to be best served with either a pair of 12's or a single 15, possibly a pair of 15's if you have enough space for a proper enclosure. An 18" would also "work", but finding the room in a trunk car to fit a proper ported enclosure is generally difficult. If you are going to sacrifice the rear seats, I'd suggest you try a setup where the subs fire forward from the trunk through the rear seat opening and seal off the trunk from the cabin. If you want some options for products, check out the SSA store and product offerings from some of the manufacturers here on the site. I know they offer some products that will fit your goal. The SSA Dcon, Sundown SA-12 and Fi SSD will offer good ported enclosure performance at affordable prices. I don't want to sound like I'm just hocking our brands here, but they are good quality affordable products (which is why they are here on the site!) so it's a good place to start

Who ever told you that are idiots, stop taking stereo advice from them. Technically there is nothing "wrong" the concept. It has been and is used in different genres of audio reproduction; Pro audio, for example. However, it's used in pro audio because 1) their "smaller" (i.e. 12") drivers might not reach down very low in frequency extension while their larger drivers (18's, for example) might be used in horns that have a narrow bandwidth of efficiency, 2) their spaces are so large they get little reinforcement assistance from the environment, and 3) they aren't dealing with as many space restrictions. So in their particular scenarios, it is a good solution. However, in car audio our subwoofers of just about any diameter are fully capable of adequately covering the entire bass and subbass frequency range, we get a large benefit in subbass reinforcement from cabin gain, and we are dealing with extremely limited space restrictions. Many people get the idea that you "need to separate to the bass to cover the entire spectrum" from the misconception that large diameter drivers can't play higher frequencies as well as "smaller" diameter drivers can. However, this couldn't be further from the truth. The diameter of the driver actually has very little to do with how well the driver plays higher frequencies (within the scope of this conversation, which is focused on bass reproduction). It is entirely possible for a 12" driver to have worse high frequency extension and performance than an 18" driver. It's a simple fact of physics. Given the limited amount of real estate in a vehicle, and the ability of our drivers to more than adequately reproduce the entire bass/subbass region, the need to use multiple different sizes of drivers and "separate" that narrow bandwidth of frequencies is simply asinine and a completely unnecessary waste of space, time and money. Run a single size, you will not be missing out on anything. A single 18" driver will be more than capable of covering the entire spectrum. And while 95Honda is correct that nothing will actually be damaged by running different drivers of a different impedance within the same system; it just isn't a very intelligent way to go about things. As I mentioned, they will be receiving different amounts of power which means you more than likely will not be maximizing the capabilities of all of the drivers. They will have different response characteristics which will likely not "blend" very well. And as he mentioned, you may run into thermal or mechanical limitations with one driver before the others. It just overall is a poor execution. If you weren't getting the output you were wanting with your prior system, then the problem was probably either a case of poor equipment selection for the goal, or poor installation/setup execution for the goal. No offense, but given what you've said so far in this thread, I would have to guess the issue is probably a combination of both. So; Let's start from the beginning. Forget what your friends have said, they've proven themselves uninformative and unhelpful. We're going to start from scratch and get you headed in the right direction. What equipment do you have?What are the goals for your system?What equipment are you willing to sell? (sell off the equipment that you don't need so you can buy equipment you do need)What is your budget?What vehicle do you have?What type of electrical system does your vehicle have?How much space are you willing to sacrifice?

Video produced by Reelmotion from the ACE Cafe meet few weeks back If you cant hack the sick ass VWs/BMWs/Audis/MERCs... fwd to 3:13

If you want to get loud and sound good, I would look in to the ssa xcon. It looks like a great overall sub.

Oooops! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGYG1N6CIKw

Internet is why I stayed away from the so called "Mainstream" brands and started to support and buy my products from either "Authorized" online dealers or manufacturer direct. I give Sundown credit for supporting their "Dealers" by mandating a "Minimum Advertised Price". If a dealer is caught advertising below this they are automatically not a dealer and cannot get access to Sundown product.

No offense to any that work at stereo shops, but I recently went out on a trip to look for some new equipment in my hometown of Omaha. I think that being worthless is a pre-requisite to work at shops here. I stopped going to these shops and started dealing with going to online factory direct companies a while ago, and especially since I purchased a Soundsplinter RLP 12 about 5 years ago. The only thing that was in local shops that could come close to duplicating sound quality and just plain stupid loud factor was a JL W7, and those were being sold for more than 3 times what I paid for the RLP. Like many have said, the shops are in business to make money, not to ensure that all products they sell are the best quality available. Big companies have big names and sell easy for these stores. I am sure their margins for profit are good too. I am grateful for the internet providing a sensible avenue for companies like Soundsplinter and SSA and others to get their product to the masses, without having to fight with big box retailers to get others. I know that not one person that heard my sub set up walked away without a "holy shit" face. Easy to move Kicker and Fosgate, and they make decent equipment, but it just doesn't cut it for guys like us.

Like I said, it can work in certain shops. But with the way some of the members in here were blaspheming some shops for not carrying the brand, I think it's important to realize 1) there are disadvantages and 2) the simple fact that it's simply not going to fit every shop's business model or customer base. As thecartel has pointed out, his bread-n-butter is the $500 system market. Does that suck? Sure it does. I'm sure every shop wishes they could sell the product they wanted rather than what the customer demanded. If someone is open-minded and walking into the shop looking at a $2k system then yes, that may a decent selling opportunity depending on the financial condition of the shop to afford to carry some extra inventory in the hopes of selling it to a customer. But upselling a customer from a $500 system to a $700 amplifier is no small feat regardless of your salesmanship abilities. Having buy in inventory sit around waiting for the prime customers to walk in the door, that's tied up capital that may have better utilization for the shop. My point is simply that it's not a one-size-fits-all situation, and I didn't see many others making that point. Just a lot of complaining about shop X not carrying brand Y without thinking of reasons why that may be the case.

So if you want to start your own shop, your job is trying to be the best in your town, then make that demo vehicle of all sundown stuff, if any one walks in just tell them to state their budget goals etc, then you give them there options, you can say you can go with KICKER and have ghetto ass bass, or go with sundown for clean and heart pounding bass and just give them a little test of yours and I'm pretty sure they won't regret it.

Ok so today is day two of my build and i have gotten allot of work done. anyway here are picks of what i have done so far. up to come- electrical upgrades, door components, and amps, and last but not least, loads o sound damping. Ok well here is my dog who is even astonished by the size of the sub What happens when your screws are tougher than your bit industrial grade terminals my friend sitting behind the final product and everything fitting where it should (my friend wrote that) that's it for now, now I am off to buy some 1/0 awg welding cable and a new battery much to come. and what do you guys think would look better to finish the box, carpet paint or bead liner, cause I'm having a hard time deciding

This is basically a which is louder thread . As posted above by denim what is your definition of performance? Read new member guidelines so you can understand how to post a new topic with all the valuable information needed to help give you the best answer for your goals and application.

The XCON is a high power sound quality driver. Excellent design and built subwoofer. It is notorious for it's output while remaining very accurate on music. Never heard an HDC3 but had an SDC2.5 and was not all impressed at the SQ. It got loud though.

Um.... I don't think there's a comparison IMO. The XCON will get plenty loud and sound fantatic doing it, that's what it was designed for. The HDC3, well, it can get loud. From most accounts I hear about it, it doesn't sound that great when tuned to the manufacturers specs. Since I have no personal experience, I do deserve to be flamed for such an outright comment against the HDC. However, it's near impossible to disregard multiple reports on the "hollow" and "cold" sound that seems to be common with them while the XCON's continue to get outstanding reviews.