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The root of all of this is the thread on another forum that I mentioned earlier. I would post a link to it, but cthedinger deleted all of his posts from it. It's fine for him to act like he has been victimized by me here, but I only became aware of the other thread because members there were outraged by the false allegation cthedinger made against me and my products and asked me to join and respond. It doesn't seem reasonable to attack and expect there to be no consequences. Unfortunately, since cthedinger chose to obliterate his contribution to that thread, the evidence is gone. It's also disingenuous to cry foul after stating that he wouldn't trust RAAMmat BXT II in his car when what he showed as his reason is pretty obviously a physically damaged sample. He never mentioned this damage in his review video leaving us to imagine where and how the damage occurred. At the same time, we're being asked to trust the superior quality of a product that's different than the prototype, doesn't seem to exist and apparently hasn't been seen by anybody, including cthedinger. Very strange development cycle, IMO. I'd suggest sending out samples of a shipping product. I know I'd be interested in seeing it. Oddly enough, I'd give an honest opinion. There are posts all over the place where I've commented favorably on competing products. Dynamat, Cascade and Second Skin all sell very good products. Cthedinger may too, but it's obviously premature for anybody to be claiming anything, one way or the other about his products. At this point all we have to evaluate are his antics

It's BETTER for the store and the forum. Less idiots to deal with. If you can't handle the way Sean helps you, you pretty much can't handle simple life situations and we don't want or need you around anyways, so those people that don't come here will never be missed.

Audiowrap makes his deadner? Same build house. I know you know that. Not sure why you'd want to reveal that. "Build house" is an interesting choice of terms. Audiowrap is a side project for Protectowrap. Protectowrap is a roofing materials manufacturer. Audiowrap may be a good product - don't know, haven't seen it, but I have seen several other of their roofing products that other people have cynically sold as vibration dampers when they were noting of the sort. I also know that it was only a few months ago that your partner announced his product, was asked on another forum to explain how vibration dampers work and e-mailed me (under false pretenses) to ask how they work, unaware that I was watching that thread. I explained to him why his announced configuration would perform poorly. Since he re-announced the new configuration within days, I have to assume this was the extent of his testing. All of this and some of his past appearances have led me to certain conclusions, most of which I'll keep to myself, but cover everything with vibration damper as a solution for every application is a ship that sailed several years ago. "works extremely hard to portray a professional and honest image" is putting the cart before the horse. In any case, my post stands and you confirmed my assertion. I was a little bitchier than I like to be but your partner's previous behaviors have rubbed me the wrong way. Good luck with the endeavor. Dynamat is manufactured in sheets, as is Cascade VMax, Second Skin's products and several others.

If you don't laugh at this then I'm sorry. http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/11307191

This is the new Vulcan 25k2e Here is is all the specs on it any questions ??

If you have a 4 channel amp, going active is almost no-brainer... I am not sure the type of crossover that amp has, but you can get a really nice outboard one for around $100, even less used... Also, with that type of budget, and if I were going active, you could do alot better than most of the stuff on that list.... If you are building pods could you fit a full size tweeter? (like 3.5-4" round) If so, you have literally 100s of choices if you look into the higher end "home audio" drivers... To be honest, even the top end Focal/Dynaudio/Hertx etc are no better than the $40 tweeters and woofers you find on the home audio DIY market... Read the tweeter tests and midwoofer tests here: www.zaphaudio.com You could get an idea of what I am talking about.... Additionally, $125-150 in Dayton Reference drivers (2 woofers and 2 tweeters) from Parts Express with a decent active crossover would probably (well almost definetly) be better than everything mentioned above in all but the bottom octave (say 50-100Hz)... Just some food for thought.... There is no reason for a 3-way set if you are running a substage..... I, and a few others would be willing to help you pick some drivers out once you figure your space constraints...

yes u can, just take into account that not using a slot port will increase displacement because u must factor both port walls instead of just 1 side. Make sure u account for this so u know what your new net volume is and how long the port must be as depth requirement will now change.

the 'best' for a pair of sundown audio 3500's are worth more than my car ?... link please, sad thing its,i was expecting a smartass comment from you... thats all you seem to do lately. Search is your friend. Ask a dumb question get a dumb answer. Best is not a real qualifier. My answers are directly proportional to the effort the OP puts into his question. Pretty shitty to ocme on a forum and not at least try to show you searched and thought about your question before asking. Actually its despicable

Here's the deal. . . Leave the other forum bullshit at the other forums.

You say " Hi " everyday, but don't know how to say " Fi " ?

Also -- yes, you only need to use one set of terminals.

its a mono block.... so the two - and the two +'s are the same ....

Doesn't mean it's asphalt, just means it was manufactured on equipment that is used to make roofing products. Getting 4 mil foil to roll up would be a trick, so I'm curious to know if it actually is foil or the more likely plastic sheeting laminating a very thin layer of foil. Not saying it is that since I don't know. It's also important to know if the adhesive is formulated for vibration damping instead of waterproofing. What I do know is that this product is being sold by cthedinger. I think he is a member here. He announced this product a few months ago on another forum. A member there asked me to reply because he was making some pretty outrageous claims. By the time I saw it, things had become very heated and he was accused of having no idea how vibration dampers work. He posted that he did. Within minutes I received an e-mail from him asking for an explanation of how vibration dampers work. Ask for a sample. That's what he did. He contacted a few vendors, including me asking for samples to "help him make up his mind". He stuck some to the side of a soda can, dropped it on his parent's driveway and made a video. CLD Tiles won

Clamps are a waste of money and time? Clamps are a necessary tool in order to obtain proper clamping force to make quality joints. I don't know the numbers for MDF, but traditional lumber will take anywhere from 150-1,000+psi of clamping force to achieve proper glue joints. I guarantee you aren't getting even 150psi with just screws. Do just screws work for making a quick subwoofer box? Sure they do, and I've done it myself, but I would never go so far as to say clamps are a waste of time and money. I always seem to have quite a few assorted screws around (some say I've lost some myself), but one can never have to many quality clamps. Clamps are not just used for holding the pieces together, but making quality glue lines, as you are looking for a glue line less than .004" thick, or a cover of a magazine.

Clamps to hold the mdf in place and predrill your holes.

Well duh. It's stuff like that that gets real audio enthusiasts get into trouble. Maybe. But i don't understand why it's okay for cars to rev their engines when they have a exhaust on and not get into trouble or ruin their "sport." I don't understand why motorcycles can be loud and also rev their engines at people without any consequences. Yes, we can turn down our volume, but they can quiet their cars/motorcycles too. I play at full tilt 24.7 unless i am in a neighborhood. It's legal to a certain extent and i am going to do it. I might think about stopping once motorcycles and loud cars "turn down" their shit first. If you don't like it, roll up your window. If you can still hear it, get over it or stop driving around with the risk of having to hear it

Ok, getting the stock "deadener" off is a pain. A whole lot of plastic cover, DUCT TAPE?!, and sticky rubber stuff. People have "patched" the stuff up with the good ole' american saying, "it'll fix anything". Oh wow haha. Stock pic. Stripped most of it down. There are little pieces of the white rubber stuff still on there, i didnt REALLY think they would hurt anything. Too much of a pain to get it all off of there. Heck, maybe it will help a bit? Oh well.

And after a wipe down i started cutting the tiles up, and applying to the door. First tile.. Door done I think i forgot to take pics. of both doors my bad. I think that the EBR made the largest difference in door resonance. Just putting a thick layer down on the side impact bar and the outside skin helped a TON. If you're deadening your door, GET EBS AND PUT IT THERE, AT LEAST.

Image shack gives options on the size you want when uploading. 640x480 for message boards is what I always use. If you have questions pm me I'll be glad to help!

Mids arriving! No AA stickers?! Carbon fiber, baby!

That day i didnt check the mailbox 'till about 8 pm, when i noticed my tweets showed up the same day. Very nice day it was! Photos galore! Sittin' on the 100.4 i've had for over a year. Super excited at this point.

I don't know if i'm very happy with the way my "pods" turned out for the mids. Aesthetically i dont really mind them, what do i expect for my first try? I now can think of a lot of things i can do differently. Ill try and explain what i did with a step by step process. I had some mdf rings made, and formed one side of them to sit flush on the stock speaker grills, and cut out a hole to fit the carbon's basket and terminals. Put a strip of EBR between the wood and plastic grill, screwed it together from the back, and put some clear coat/paint to prevent any possible water to reach the wood. I then used some CLD tiles to deaden/seal the extra holes on the back of the stock speaker grill. A little more was added after this pic. They were then wrapped in some fake leather lookin' stuff that matched my door's fake leather looking stuff. This is extremely difficult, but i blame the glue for not drying quick enough and allowing slack which caused wrinkles in the fabric. oh well, appearance doesnt matter much right now. The factory speaker baffle has a frame behind that shields from water getting to the speaker, while still having holes and such to let air flow, so i left those on the door. These are screwed/bolted to the metal of the door. I then attached the modified speaker grills to the door, having left some material inside the ring of wood. These places allowed me to bolt the grill to the metal/factory baffle on the door. Only the first picture has been bolted/screwed in place, haven't done that step in the other pics. they are just there to show how they look. From sitting positions... I don't know what to think about them. They work, but i'm just wondering how to seal them to the door, so there is no air movement between the beauty panel on the door and the metal. Any ideas? modeling clay, maybe? Or did i just confuse everyone on what i did?

And for the hardest part of the install... Cut some holes in the door car for the tweeters. I'm sure some CRX fans would kick me for doing this. But oh well. It's done. Tweets in Driver door with "pod" and tweet installed.

With mids installed...

Popped in some Korn today. Best i've ever heard that bad. Love it! these mids really shine with those quick drumb beats from the rock/metal genre. Ill have to get some tool in there and see whats going on. i think the carbons need more power than what this 100.4 can give them darn it. Finals are coming up next week so progress will be slow. I'll start talking to bromo about a box design. Have some decisions to make! Need to make a mount for my amp. Hope i can get this done this weekend. Cant really see where to mount the wood though. I'll figure it out. I tooke the back storage bin out to run the wires, don't think i'm going to put it back it. Just complicate things. I'm pretty sure the new box or amps will cover this anyways. As it sits, today. And the deck stuffed with RCAs

Video of mids! WOO!

Ascendant audio. They dont just look great, they perform as well. If you're looking for some mids def. look into them. Here is a topic i made about them. There is a link to a dealer on here to find which dealer is closest to you and to get more info if you want on them.

And the first one i open happened to have other goodies as well!

4 12" Fi Xs

This is how they will be placed in the box, i like the tilted look. Nice black finish on the ass And what's left of the living room haha

So day 2 of box assembly.. started cutting the top baffles of the box out. Flush mount for teh sexy look. The outer diameter of the subs is stated at 12.5" on Fi's website, but it was a little off, we had to sand down 1/16" or so on each flush mount hole, kinda' annoying but whatever needs to get done. We glued 'n screwed the top pieces together and started fitting the dowel bracing. 1.5" dowels should do the trick First blood!

Here's Auggie supervising Test fitting the sub Little out of order, but you get the idea That's as far as we got. Now i'm waiting for the ports while he is on his way to see his parents for Christmas. When he gets back we can start putting it all together. I need to order speaker wires and some parts for terminals. Should all come together at the end of the month. Hope i have enough material left over from the pods to cover this thing..

all built, wired, and put in the car! Tidy wiring. Used 10 gauge all around the inside of the box, and 8 gauge from the box to the amp. I really like this pic. for some reason

And now to show off some bracing with the ports. And puttin' the subs in! Outside of the box terminals. 8 gauge ring terminals

False floor time And finally, putting in the box. this is getting exciting! And it's in!

If you noticed, i put the subs in upside down. i wanted the logos (looking at it from the rear of the hatch) to be like / \ <- that, if that gets the point across correctly. but they are backwards, oh well, not they're "IF"s Didn't have as much room as i thought, so i've got the amp on the box for now.

It's still processing, so quality may not be the best. Don't hate, nothing is tuned. Just a random song i had on. This shit gets loud, i cant wait till i can throw more power at them.

lol ,you enjoy being a arseho... i know a handfull of people that dont get on this site just because of you. that cant be good for the SSA store anyways, thanks for the help guys.

the 'best' for a pair of sundown audio 3500's are worth more than my car ?... link please, sad thing its,i was expecting a smartass comment from you... thats all you seem to do lately. Search is your friend. Ask a dumb question get a dumb answer. Best is not a real qualifier. My answers are directly proportional to the effort the OP puts into his question. Pretty shitty to ocme on a forum and not at least try to show you searched and thought about your question before asking. Actually its despicable the forums would be stupid if no one asked questions and everyone just used the search buttom. I mean come on you have 44,000+ posts!!! Imagine all that time doing something useful if you didn't have us idiots to complain about asking questions lmao

So right now you are "selling" vaporware? So you didn't get an idea for a product, you got an idea for a price point then had someone else design a product (that you didn't understand) to fit that price point. At present, said product doesn't actually exist. Your marketing plan so far consists of promoting a product that doesn't actually exist and that you don't actually understand, making apparently outrageous claims about it's performance then deleting those comments, and finding reasons to trash competing products such as the picture of RaaMat you posted earlier? That's pretty tactless and demonstrates terrible business ethic. It also helps if you type in English. Your grammar and spelling is atrocious for an individual promoting a product and business. Sounds like a solid plan you have going there. "It does exist"... I have 75sqft of it in my car dumbass. I'm glad you have a bunch of groupies bro. Trashing a competitor because you simply can not compete with audiotechnix pricing. In fact no body can. A product of such high quality and such a low price that can not be reckoned with. Intimidated are you? I'm sorry that you must bring it to this. I'm leaving this argument not to return. Im sure col will do the same. It has now become pointless and is just past arguing but extraverting our egos. If you want to bring it even further past that... Than we can go there trust me, my biceps at bigger than your waist. Thank you all for your time. You can find audiotechnix sound deadner on the website. Entry level pricing will be available for a little while longer. To clear it up I am not a business partner of col by any means. I am a friend and proud of it. Sorry to sac tap your pathetic unmanned comments with my shear masculinity and ability to whoop all of your guys asses. But argue with me. Not cthedinger.

Sorry I accidentally gave you a negative one when I was trying to hit multi-quote so if someone would fix that for me I would appreciate it. Its just as easy to get it cut into a roll by the same people that make it, and I assume you product if made in the U.S. comes from the same kind of place if it doesn't then it may come from over seas because it would be a lot cheaper to get it cut into sheets if it did. Its actually foil no B.S. here. I will admit that back then I did not know as much information as I know now and I am still know expert now. And I had never gotten the chance to finish all the video's I was going to make. I had planned on testing how well it sticks by hanging a weight from it and see how long it takes for everyones deadener to fall. Then testing how hot it can get before falling and also test it on some sheet metal. And I don't know were you got the idea of that, that was in my parents driveway. lol In the video it kind of shows my surroundings and there are several buildings that look the same, A.K.A. filmed at my apartment. First of Audio Technix is not made by Protect-O-Wrap and has no affiliation with them. It is made in a completely different state. Also Don the new configuration was not announce with in days. Don't make your self try to feel to almighty. Also the reason I asked all these companies for samples is because I truly wanted to know what all of them are like. Then I got an idea for a product that I liked and thats where it all started. I do not believe everything should be covered in deadener. I have told several of my customers to apply a little where they feel its needed then test and at that point they can determine whether or not they need to put more on. There are also several products that are made on rolls and personally I like it being made on a roll. IMO it is a lot easy to install that way. I am not going to argue with you on here or go back and forth all day. If you want to go back and forth and argue give me a call on Monday 832.257.8825 Since this topic was brought up I figure that gives me the right to post of some video's for Audio Technix Also here is a picture of RAAM Mat that you called the best bang for its buck back in the day Don. Just picture to show you how good Raam Mats adhesive is attached to there aluminum. There is lots of air pockets between the adhesive and the aluminum. I wouldn't trust this stuff in my car. I just tried to do the same to Second Skin, Audio Wrap, and the Audio Technix proto type deadener I have (which does not use as good of an adhesive as the real product will have) and couldn't manage to do it.