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The difference is pretty minimal as far as output is concerned. According to WinISD you'd be looking at a difference of around 1-1.5db less output in the smaller enclosure (which is pretty much negligible) over a very narrow bandwidth in the low 30's to high 20's, group delay is a little better in the smaller enclosure. So you're not really losing much of anything by using the smaller enclosure.

Clipping has absolutely nothing to do with it. At all. Every post contrary to this in this thread is B.S. If you keep smelling it, you are applying to much power, period.

He answered above. Just consider it a relative test. For frequency response measurements an absolute value isn't necessary and without a seriously calibrated mic and acquisition system (read expensive) calling it that would be inappropriate. I appreciate the fact that even if it is close to that he has chosen to say not a sensitivity test. Either way it would glean not so much extra information anyways considering other drivers only report sensitivity at a single frequency and once you know the relative response and that number you are pretty golden. And again, he also highlighted that these weren't even on a baffle. Doing a sensitivity test across all frequencies in that configuration won't help anyone. Don't try to read so much into the data, instead look at it objectively and see that the overall output of the drivers is really rather flat and extends low for a higher sensitivity driver. Of course that was part of the design mantra, but its nice to see it measured out.

Fi Q with the QTS option would be a good choice. I have had SSA Icons and Dcons in sealed enclosures and they both performed nicely.

^^ this.... I want some... I need for my rear battery... Hook it up and how much? I'll come pick up if needed ...

Nice bling

The terminal block is lookin' really nice!!! You gonna make those for all SSA members?

I started working on my passenger door. It is going much faster than the driver's door. My DC Power 270XP stooped working again DC Power is going to replace the voltage regulator. I started working on my batery terminals for the underhood battery. The terminals are designed for two runs of 1/0 to the rear. They are not completed yet. The terminals are cut out of aluminum. I used a Bridgeport mill. The blue 1/0 directly secured to the terminal will be coming from the alternator. I used two 1/4" set screws to secure the bare wire. One set screw never holds the wire in place good enough. Dual 300a fuses will be used.

I just feel like an old man, been hunched over fiberglassing for the last three days, finally starting to get the hang of it Bought some cheap aura sound neos, figured I'd play around with them. Need to get a better hu with more crossover functions and amp. Also making kick panels for some 6.5s (vibe comp set). Going to try both setups out then stick with one. I think I'll likely pull out the auras and use them for some computer desk speakers

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WOOOHOOOO!!! This build is finally starting to kick off!!! Did a lot of work this weekend pulling out all the rear trim panels from behind the front doors to the tailgate to install CLD and CCF behind it all. I also put some strips of CCF in spots where the plastic rubs and makes way too much noise. I also started on the doors, and will have pictures of them up soon, for now I got a few pics of the process in the back to put up. Again, due to the heat it's not a step by step photo shoot, but it should give an idea of the work involved. Here's a quick shot of the CLD and CCF. It's a roll of the old RaamMat BXT60 I've had for awhile and some of the RaamAudio peal and stick CCF. From behind the truck with everything tore out of the driver's side. And the process as I got pictures of it..... That's basically it until the process with the doors is complete. A note to anyone who's been thinking about installing sound deadening but haven't due to wondering whether or not it's worth it or not, don't short change yourselves. The difference it makes in the amount of road noise you hear, the squeaks and rattles from panels, and the overall sound of your music to your ears is well worth the time, effort and money it costs to do it. I took the Jimmy for a quick drive to test everything out, and with a couple of the worst gravel roads leading either direction away from my house I have a great test bed to find every little squeak, rattle and annoying noise a vehicle can possibly have. I heard pretty much nothing from the rear of the truck, at least not over the squeaks and rattles of the doors and dash. Even the noise of the gravel under the tires was lessened and with so much less noise the PG's have never sounded better or as loud. Now on to the doors and installation of the Bravox CS60K's!!!!

To you, interesting. Have you compared to a setup that doesn't have the highs murdered with two tweeters? Another way of asking that is what sounds better to you with both pairs running? What orientation have you chosen when you are running both pairs? Either way, the tweeter is (or better be if its an even half decent design) padded such that it doesn't overpower the mid. You "could" run two and suffer all the negatives and pad them both, but that makes no sense. Of course you could use both mids and one tweeter (and maintain the same output from the tweeter due to reduced pad), but this would require a completely new crossover and along with it come costs that exceed what you have in drivers so I would think that to be a rather interesting choice that I'd never make.