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A-pillars were planned to hold two 5.25 and tweets. But they were just to big. Especially on the drivers side. Went with 4 tweeters instead. Soft domes so they don't over power your senses.

Some of the console

Inserts for the doors made by Toolmaker.

Remember this pic? Turned them into something worth looking at.

The BTL will be louder on 1k than any of their other subs.

Sweet, way to show your knowledge. Let's praise a sub solely based on its power handling. Now THAT makes sense. Sound good is subjective and you've proved you fail there so I'll ignore that part of the sentence. It isn't about what he likes, that was just funny and showed his inexperience. The responses are due to this absurd comment. As that is 100% user error.

^Yeah, I'll try to explain to my understanding, since Sean doesn't go into detail unless asked. Certainly see capacitors used on positive wire in between amplifier/headunit to speaker terminal, but in this case your using a very large capacitor for a different intended application. Using a capacitor inline to an amplifier to help stabilize / stiffen the electrical supply is almost always bad. They don't store enough power to actually help, certainly don't keep up with the amps power draw, and since they don't store enough power they are constantly discharging and recharging, thus sucking more amperage from your battery / alt. Just adding another item that draws power. Adding a battery is a better idea, even if its small. Make sure its a sealed agm type, otherwise it'll leak poisonous gases in the cabin. Hope this makes sense, typing on a mobile is a trick sometimes

That's pretty wild that that much water could flow through that. Glad you found the culprit. My sunroof recently broke and I pulled it out to check everything out, couldn't find anything wrong. Stuck it back in the car and dropped it off at the local volvo shop. I never reconnected the drain hoses since I figured they were going to pull it right back out. It rained over night and in the morning my leather seats had warped and have a billion creases in them now... So that makes two of us in terms of water in the cabin.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/xcon.html

Wow. If all you got from that was me trying to hurt your feelings then holy shit your comprehension skills suck. But I'll leave it alone. Have fun with your bitter ass attitude. You want respect, earn that shit. But I guess your generation knows nothing about that huh?

This thing is fucking sweet! http://www.streetfire.net/video/porsche-911-gt2-rs-top-gear-usa_2301750.htm

you know whats a joke jl audio subs i seen so many w6/w7s blow. i blew 2 12w6v2s on a jl 1000.1 now thats joke when i can give my lil 180 dollar sub 1k and it takes it like a nothing but it guess thats a joke Lol thats too funny because i had a 13w6v2 running off my jl 1000 and it held up just fine. the w6 and w7 series are great subwoofers and have amazing sound quality, its just the price that is a little silly, I dont think a skar would ever compare to a w6's sound quality or a w7's output if that, no offense to Skar, there just two different catagories

Sure, but now you are adding another variable and that is the box. I assumed above you meant in the same box. You can use the box to alter it as well. Good starting point on reading is to buy the LSDC by Vance Dickson

My bad guys...... I was doing a demo of my Icons and I guess I turned it up a lil' too loud!

Yes that would be considered an active setup, active setups have crossovers but they are usually controlled by either: a headunit, external processor or an amplifier. Active and passive usually both consist of mid and tweeter, passive has a crossover between the amp and speakers (both speakers are wired to crossover, then crossover is wired to amp). Active usually consist of mids hooked up to a pair of channels and tweeters to another pair of channels on the amp. Active just means you will have to adjust your crossover points on your own without the help of a passive crossover unit that comes with component speakers.

Occasionally I use a lanyard to wire my cap if I am driving over 65mph on the water, but only for fitted. For universal fit caps I put them over the throttle control of the boat as it is less annoying than having the cap whip around.

not even worth it

you know whats a joke jl audio subs i seen so many w6/w7s blow. i blew 2 12w6v2s on a jl 1000.1 now thats joke when i can give my lil 180 dollar sub 1k and it takes it like a nothing but it guess thats a joke

fuck this bs me and a shit load of other people out there no jl audio subs are over rated and over priced subs

As that is 100% user error. my error that a sub cant handle the power and cost that much money is a joke just like you .i think you need to get a life buddy 47k+ post thats doing a lil to much stay off the forums bro take a break you need it if you still think that pos jl audio w6 can take the skar out