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Why not get a PSI recone?

2007 Chevrolet Cobalt Sedan Equipment: SSA XCON D1 10" Subwoofer powered by two Zed Minilith's strapped @ 2 ohm. Mach 5 MLI 6.5" mids with LPG 25NFA tweeters powered by a Zed Draconia. Pioneer 2300 DVD. SDS products. The Mach5s are crossed over from 60hz up to 2000hz. The LPGs are from 2000hz and up. I can not be more happy with how this pair sounds. They blend very well together. This build is still a work in progress. I have everything except the Miniliths, which are on their way. I will continue to add pictures and updates as work is completed. Some starting pictures. The car: Car did not come with a center console, so I bought one. Sound Deadening Process. I would like to thank Aaron and Don from SDS. Aaron's build log on his Mazda help alot with this process. All four doors got this treatment and so did the rear deck. XCON. MTX ten for reference: Zed Draconia:

here i have a short video and some pics of my '65 mustang... enjoy <<favorite <<how many 15's could i cram into the trunk???

Simple as the title says. Watch in 720p

Box done before carpet:

Last weekend was the Meca California state finals....took first in s3 with 2 15" xcon's on a crescendo 3500d. Score was a 151.3@40hz, down .2 from last show but it was still good enough to take the 1st and the stae record I love these subs...get loud and sound awesome while doing it Thinking about upgrading next season to 2 15" zcon's on a crescendo 5500d Thanks SSA for the awesome subs

Box is done. Miniliths will be here tomorrow. Throwing around a few ideas on building the amp rack. Any ideas Lance? Updated pics to follow soon.

Model your desired woofers and use the one that provides the response you desire. No need for guessing games.

short story short...Incriminator audio website...... not a big forum guy.... but do like to network with cool peeps once in a while...

it stops lower frequency's from getting to you sub...so if you set it to 30htz it wont play below 30htz To add to what Jmac said.....a SSF is nothing more than a highpass crossover with a very low crossover frequency. It abides by all of the standard rules for crossovers. Which means it doesn't "stop" anything. It simply attenuates frequencies at an increasing rate (the slope) below a certain frequency determined by the crossover frequency (which is the -3db or -6db point of the signal depending on the type of crossover/SSF). If the SSF is set to 30hz, the driver will still play frequencies below 30hz but they will be attenuated in level. Where the SSF needs set really has more to do with the driver, enclosure, music selections and power than it does the arbitrary 3-5hz below tuning figure typically given as an answer. Though I understand why some companies suggest that.....to keep their return rate lower due to unknowledgeable customers setting the SSF too low instead of more conservatively and blowing things up constantly. Plug your driver, enclosure and power into any program which will graph cone excursion and look at excursion of the driver. WinISD would even allow you to graph the response and excursion with a given filter applied.....that will tell you a lot about what's going on.

I'm looking meow.

This is not the first Time I've seen Psi sift parts sag like an old titties I'll ask drew to post some pics

Not a bad driver, but if you want similar performance for quite a bit less, but this. http://gr-research.com/m165xwoofer.aspx

Why do you think this? because i know..... there were only 4 of these built..period... I'm going to stir the pot here. . . You claim so many people are misinformed and don't know what they are typing about, yet you yourself stick your own foot in your mouth by claiming there were "only 4 of these built..period.." You then go on to state that,"I did at one point have 7 of these.." So which one is it?

If you indeed are the owner Tyler had texted you and asked you how old the recone was and you said 3 weeks old.

I guess the better question is why would you want to do that to a classic? Use the KISS method and keep the car the way it is with very little modifications.

Plunge router and jasper jig? Cut perfect holes in anything! Thanks for showing my hole cutter. ummmmmm....No it is not. Yeah I have a router that I still use. The Hole Pro works great with a hammer drill at low speed. The nice thing is the blades last for quite awhile.

Plunge router and jasper jig? Cut perfect holes in anything!

Start of the enclosure. 1.6 cubic feet tuned to 35hz. Double baffle.

Night and day. Well worth the work and cost of products. I will put my car up against anybodys on how quiet it is inside going down the road. The road noise was very bad and now it is non existent. Along audio lines I don't know. I installed the SDS products before I upgraded my stock speakers. But The bass response from the Mach 5s is amazing.

Thank you. Building the enclosure right now.

Thank you! Check in later for more progress.

They are actually in the kicks. I took a lot of time figuring out the placement for them. Why me no see? Those pics are before I installed them I will post some more updated pics soon.

They are actually in the kicks. I took a lot of time figuring out the placement for them.

Have you ever completed an enclosure that was a touch too small? Your low end sounds cramped but you don't want to or can't build a brand new enclosure. You throw in some polyfill and are blown away by the improvements. Then you go online to talk about it and everything gets confusing. You don't know why it works or what it really did, but you know that it sounds better. Maybe it's time you learned more about it! Firstly, there are a few primary types of fill that are used. This includes polyester fiberfill, fiberglass insulation, and long-fiber wool. Of these three, polyester fiberfill is perhaps the best option, and also the origination of the term "polyfill". These products can easily be found in several stores, including Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or a local crafts and fabrics store, and all are extremely affordable (typically less than $2/pound). It is also very easy to apply to the inside of your enclosure: simply staple or glue it to the inside of your enclosure. How does it work? Stuffing a box with polyfill makes it seem larger and it all relates to thermodynamics. When polyfill is added to an enclosure, it changes the behaviour of the airspring in the enclosure from "adiabatic" to "isothermal". The term "adiabatic" implies that there is no heat transfer occurring. An isothermal process occurs once the polyfill has been added. As the air passes through the polyfill, the fibers wiggle and cause some of the energy created by the airspring to be dissipated as heat. This heats the surrounding air molecules warmer, causing the air to become less dense. Being that sound passes easier through a denser medium, the speaker interacts with your enclosure as if it is larger than it actually is. The effective increase in enclosure size can be as much as 40%! This has some very obvious benefits that are inherent of a larger enclosure. Firstly, it becomes more efficient (a larger enclosure is always more efficient than a smaller one for any given driver). Second, the f3 (or the frequency at which SPL is down by 3dB) will be lower, providing a little bigger bottom end. While these are both great advantages, they decrease the effective damping of the speaker as well, meaning the speaker can be more likely to bottom out or over-excurt itself. Naturally, this is speaker, frequency, and power dependent. If used in a ported enclosure, you will also see the Fb (or the resonant frequency of your port) drop lower. There are some additional worthy considerations. Adding polyfill to an enclosure can be a great choice. However, too much polyfill can be a bad thing. At a certain point, the stuffing becomes too dense and the fibers no longer wiggle. At this point, not only have you taken away the size benefit of adding polyfill, you have actually decreased the effective volume as the polyfill is now taking up room inside your enclosure. It is also worth mentioning that polyfill is not as effective in a large enclosure. Let's combine these two thoughts into two simple rules: 1. If the enclosure is less than 2.5 - 3.0 cubic feet in size, you should use no more than one and a half pound of polyfill per cubic foot available in your enclosure. 2. If the enclosure is greater than 2.5 - 3.0 cubic feet in size, you should use no more than one pound of polyfill per cubic foot available in your enclosure. Specific examples of polyfill's effects on various enclosure sizes (with varying amounts of polyfill in each size) can be found in The Loudspeaker Cookbook by Vance Dickason or in an article written by Tom Nousaine for the March/April 1995 edition of "Car Stereo Review". There is one last point that you will hear from time to time regarding polyfill: that polyfill stops standing waves in an enclosure. When referencing an enclosure for a subwoofer playing a fundamental frequency that falls in the typical range, this is simply false. A standing wave in this range of frequencies would be several feet long and, thus, unlikely to occur. However, higher order harmonic distortion is possible, and can potentially colour music. Being that these higher order harmonics will be progressively shorter (in terms of wavelength), polyfill can be effective for this purpose. However, audibility, particularly at high SPL, can be quite minimal. Using polyfill in an effort to absorb standing waves or various distortion is most effective in large enclosures for your midrange and is not particularly effective for a subwoofer. Hopefully you now have a greater understanding of what polyfill does and doesn't do, while also enjoying the opportunity to absorb some scientific content as well. If you're still undecided, be wild and adventurous: put some polyfill in your enclosure right this minute!

I'll keep stirring. Let's see where you THINK you can put your foot. Beware of the blender.

If you indeed are the owner Tyler had texted you and asked you how old the recone was and you said 3 weeks old. When Tyler got this from me.... i ran them with the fresh recones for about a week, did one comp, so when he did recieve it, well into a about ayear ago, it was basically new. i had some financial issues so i sold most of my subs/amps/audio quipment and downsized. Why do you think this? because i know..... there were only 4 of these built..period... I'm going to stir the pot here. . . You claim so many people are misinformed and don't know what they are typing about, yet you yourself stick your own foot in your mouth by claiming there were "only 4 of these built..period.." You then go on to state that,"I did at one point have 7 of these.." So which one is it? I had 7 dp 21s total.... 4 of them were psi/ia hybrids... as that was a favor between the owner of psi and the owner of IA to get me some recones asap for a sound comp/world finals...THE OTHER 3 WERE STOCK..i was building up to try to do 8 total in my ride on 8 amps.. SO YES I HAD 7 TOTAL... I NEVER SAID I HAD 7 DONE AS HYBRIDS.... SO KEEP STIRRING and ill put my foot somewhere else... The original DPs did that to me over time stock built... its just something common with the dp and cone weight in general... There was not alot of difference between the stock and the PSI/hybrid sub The exact parts were as follows: IA old style motor/basket... IA cone... Newer upgraded IA coil... 2 newer style IA spiders...PSI top spider and dual leads. PSI carbon dustcap.... Thats exactly what i told tyler....and i also told him to run 10 plus cubes minimum.....never saw him build a box over 8 cubes... so when you do damage to a sub, it is permanent, it doesnt heal itself or get better... All DP 21s are finicky under 10 cubes due to motor strenght vs cone area.... 11-15cubes make these things shine Warden 21s have more motor strength and can handle smaller boxes better.... I ran DP 21s for almost 4 years..i did have alot of trial and error with these things and did have my have my share of rebuilding these... I gave Tyler sound advice and what he does with it is his own business.... His new box.... still small and he knows it, hopefully hell have better luck when he finally walls it off... If you abuse any sub... it will fail over time..no matter how badass it starts out as.. Any more questions?