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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2012 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    especially since 16ks install is just a drop-in! Wait til he tunestweaks, rebuilds, etc...
  2. Speaking of guns, I have one on the way and filed for my permit today.
  3. Just my opinion, but once you get up to so much DB, most rule of thumbs go out the window. So if your insinuating that the difference between a 57 and a 58 is easy, well, I simply don't agree.
  4. in a sense, yes. They are built to withstand 1ohm wiring, but even 0.7ohms at rest is not suggested.. that's how "on the edge" it is suggested. Look at there 1ohm and 2ohm ratings. They aren't much different. Good news is wiring at 1ohm can net you LOTS of ACTUAL power vs other amps out there. You won't find any large powerhouse amps that can do the power SD amps can do at 2ohms.
  5. Something i can say that i've read from SD before... There amps are capable of doing there power at 2ohm and just a hair more at 1ohm. They are stated to safely be ran at 1ohm but strongly encourage those to never even attempt wiring below 1ohm as 1ohm is on the edge of safety as it is.
  6. There is no such thing as rap any more. It's now hip hop, which is just marketing bullshit. Rap was born as a way for the black community to get their message out since the white man pays them no attention. It sucks, but that's the way it is still today, but the record execs have grabbed hold of the "talent" and used them for their bidding. There are no more stories or messages; it's just about a party and shaking your ass or talking about your money and posessions. No need to listen to it.
  7. They also discovered the Higgs Boson and managed to photograph the shadow of a single atom yesterday too. European Parliament even struck down ACTA. Helluva day, it seems.
  8. Is the amp mounted to your subwoofer enclosure? Where do you have your amp ground connected?
  9. i didnt say i want to tune to 27 hz, but play 27 hz, (my box now is tuned at 32 and i can play that low. . .and i guess i dont want to sacrifice that much, and i brought them into a program and found that freq being played thats how i know (and i play sweeps) Read about Hoffman's Iron law: (http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=56), and you should have a better understanding why the idea of using a smaller enclosure in order to use more power in order to gain output is rather counterproductive. If your trying to save on space then perhaps you'd have some ground to stand on. As to the idea of playing frequencies well below the tuning of the enclosure, that's not exactly a hot idea. There is a reason why people use Subsonic filters / HPF for ported enclosures and the alike. Without a SSF, the speaker's excursion can dramatically increase when playing frequencies below the tuning of the enclosure. This can tear apart the soft parts of the driver if over-excursion occurs enough. Here's a picture:
  10. I wasn't trying to insinuate you were generally unknowledgeable, rather this is not your area of expertise. It wasn't based on your posting status, but rather the questions you were asking. If you really want to pursue this, there are some general guidelines. Look at what most SPL guys have to give you some clues. Large enclosures with tons of port area generally arranged in a manor to minimize cabin space. So, first this should tell you that you would want to avoid a high vent mach. High vent mach/port velocity will lead to compression of the air in the port, which will cause large amounts of port noise and reduce the efficiency with which the air in the port can oscillate. So you want to use a port with large area to reduce port velocity, but on the other hand if you go too large the mass of the air in the port can become too much for the driver to effectively utilize. It's a balancing act. Second, you want to create a "path of least resistance" for the air in the port to more or less reduce drag on the air as it oscillates within the port. Also, port design/shape will have an affect on the turbulence within the port, which is one of the reasons many people use aeroports, flares, and 45's or PVC in the corners of their enclosures and ports. To reduce turbulence. As for the enclosure, generally you want the enclosure on the larger side. Larger enclosure = more efficient enclosure with a larger peak at tuning. Yes, you want increased cone excursion as more excursion equals more air movement. Load a driver in WinISD and compare the cone excursion graph of various enclosure sizes of the same tuning on the same power. You'll notice as the enclosure size increases the cone excursion increases as well. For tuning, you will want to tune higher. You'll gain peak output and better match the resonant frequency of your vehicle. You're not going to be doing hair tricks with a 30hz tone, especially with your setup. It will be more in the 40's and 50's. Tuning high will obviously cause your low frequency response to suffer, but that's the trade off. From there, it's all about experimentation and what works for your subwoofers in your vehicle. Those are just basic generalizations. I still believe you are searching for a unicorn here, you don't have the basic foundation upon which those types of systems are built. But if you want to spend a bunch of time and money (MDF, glue, screws, etc will add up quickly, you'll need to build and test and build and test and build and test) to pursue this endeavor, there's some basics to get you started.
  11. Primarily your limited cone area and enclosure placement/cabin space. Majority of the people doing the massive hair tricks have walls and/or multiple times more cone area. Two 10's from a trunk in a sedan aren't going to do the hair tricks you see on YouTube, atleast in any manageable installation. If "hair tricks" are your goal (given your line of questioning, I'm assuming it is), then you need to entirely redesign your system and given the size of the trunk in a Cavalier, you would need to step up to a wall. Then I would suggest you look into increasing your cone area as well and fit the largest quantity/largest diameter drivers you can fit in the airspace. Granted given proper enclosure design and construction as well as driver selection 1900w would probably achieve your goal, again most of the people doing the YouTube hairtricks are running 3x or more that power. Based on your line of questioning, I would suggest you refocus your goals. Designing and installing those types of systems take a significant amount of knowledge and experience to properly setup. It doesn't appear you are there yet.
  12. 1 point
    here is 1 before and after mechman alternator install... before after

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