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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2012 in Posts

  1. Why would you say that? You honestly have nothing better to add, so you feel the need to down talk others? Grow up.
  2. Then they obviously know nothing about serpentine belt drives, tension, or loading. Anyone can build parts, but only few can make them work together. There is a reason the manufacturer put a bracket there. Ask DC if they will put this in writing and if they will warranty any issues that arise because of it.
  3. Ok so I've been trying to troubleshoot alternator whine through my 4 channel since I've installed it. Let me first list my equipment. Car: 2004 Grand Prix GT no monsoon system, no onstar Headunit: JVC KD-720 (old, bought it back in 2007 or something) U-35 cable converting cd changer to AUX EXT IN is in use. Wired this to cars harness myself as I did not need the expensive PAC harness, as I didnt care if I maintained onboard date/time display or door chimes. 4 channel amp: SSL F400, poopy I know, but this is my first time hooking up a 4 channel so babysteps 6x9s: Infinity Reference 691.3 3-way, Using a pair of stinger bass blockers on them to just get use of frequencies 150 Hz+ Tweeters: straight from china, 2 pairs mounted up front on side of middle dash Subwoofer: Fi Q pre-2009 driver with post 2009 recone in a sealed enclosure to spec<3 Sub Amp: mmats d300Hc Rear Battery: Kinetik Hc1800 with newer terminals, stacking the ground for the 4 channel and mmats on the - Front battery: Duralast platinum, big 3 done as follows: Front battery + to rear battery +, front battery + to alternator + fused, Front battery - to engine ground(which I dont know is a clean ground its on a long screw that controls some sort of evap fluid, a mechanic told me this goes right to my engine block but he didnt know the ins and out of purpose), Front battery - to rear battery -. front battery - to another ground on strut. Wiring from + to +, and - to - is 1/0 Bullz Car audio. Everything under the hood except for that is KNU or Monster Kable 0. THERE IS NO POWER WIRE RAN NEXT TO SIGNAL WIRES. Ok lets get down to it. I get alternator noise, increasing when I touch gas pedal. Recently I've been trying to troubleshoot it without having to use gay ass ground loop isolation tools. LAtely I've been messing with my headunit wiring, because I've determined its not the amp, its the source or ground to the source, or its my wiring all together. So I grounded all 3 sets of my RCAs, wrapped a stripped wire around all 3 pinned down by surrounding screws. I grounded my headunit to the frame but came all the way over to driver side door to do so, no result, then grounded to rear battery, no result. When I installed I ran a wire from the right pass side fuse box to power on my headunit because there was a lack of ignition wire. So now I took that out and ran it back to the + of my battery to see if it was a powerline problem. no result. My remote wire hook up: Now I'm questioning myself on this: Remote wire for headunit is split to the switch for my bass spliced before the headunit to make another run for a switch for my 4 channel. My volt meter receives power from the switch for the sub. I don't know if this is right, but I don't see how it could be the cause for my problems. Maybe a relay could be used? I dunno. But I figured I'd mention that. At first I thought it was my rear battery being grounded to strut and not to the negative of the front battery, so I made that run and...no result. I'm about to buy a new harness and do all the wiring to the headunit over again, as I didn't cap the connections, I used elect tape. but as if right now, I still have the headunit grounded to the left driver side frame screw, and power is going to rear battery, when I made that adjust, it seemed like things got worse. So maybe this tells me its my big 3 connection all along? I dont know I want to rip my own face off thinking about this sometimes... If there's anything you see or questions to be asked about the hook up please...lets talk about it. Because I'm in despair..I'm lonely. I'm actually glad I didnt spend a lot of money on a good 4 chan amp if I'm having this problem anyway..I get so frustrated it makes me just want to rip everything out that has to do with the 4 channel and just run off my shitty sound ordnance p52 getting power off headunit. sigh...HELP
  4. MY buddy just got his Sierra done last year and it was around $650. Both prices sound reasonable. J
  5. Maybe everything seems louder when you just wake up, but damn these bitches in the dentists office must be in a louder than you contest!
  6. 500w and she's still cold running at 10Hz. Things a beast and even free air it'll take more than I'm giving it.
  7. I succeeded in so many way. Keep talkin.
  8. It may very well work fine. Knowing what i do about mechanics and simple common sense, I personally would not do it.
  9. Dude that's awesome. My mom has a big problem with drinking. The biggest problem in a way is it never affected her work life, and she remained skinny. Now she is having serious heart issues and has failed to accept that its the drinking that's is causing it. I'm sure it will be for the better. Actually my girlfriend and I are doing some ridiculous fast right now and I haven't been able to drink. I'm not a huge drinker but when I'm winding down for the night it sounds so good. Keep us posted.
  10. I want to put an array of GoPro camera's around the edge of my bed.
  11. I get so sick of: "make your box smaller and you will have less impedance rise" And "make your box smaller and it will handle more power" If we are going to make those suggestions, please add "but it will reduce the efficiency and change the frequency response. Low frequency output will roll off sooner, and output at X watts will be less."

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