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Careful, Julian has been known to rape forum members. Lmao

IMO its really not worth it.. why have 6 batteries when 4 12v batteries will suffice? Then you have to invest in an ext regulated alt, bracket, regulator, etc etc.. Rather than a single alt + some big batteries. That would far exceed what I've spent on my 12v setup.

You bought davids batteries? 16v is for guys that can't hack it in 12v. BTW. LOL

Nick Lemon's of Stereo Integrity / Obsidian Audio will be doing the SA-8s for a bit as Mike (woofercooker) has been traveling for work and so forth so is not able to do them at this time. Re-coned SA8's - Car Audio Classifieds ---------- Nick has been re-coning both the 12-spoke and new style frame drivers that didn't meet QC standards and/or warranty replacements. At the moment the shallow cones for 12-spokes are out of stock -- so only the new style frame units are available. $90 plus shipping EACH UNIT If you are interested in these you MUST EMAIL NICK YOUR ZIP CODE!!! His e-mail address is [email protected] DO NOT PM NICK OR ME -- DO NOT E-MAIL SUNDOWN Quoting Nick's For Sale Below : "Re-coned and in perfect working order. The drivers are being sold as-is with no warranty. I bought a lot of used motors from Jake, am cleaning them up, putting new baskets and spacer rings on them and re-coning the drivers with all new soft parts. For those of you who don't know me, I own Stereo Integrity and am a partner/subwoofer designer for Obsidian Audio and I also build production drivers, do re-cones, and drop-in's for Sundown Audio. I can build any SA-8 you want. Normal coils are dual 2 Ohm and dual 4 Ohm."

I vote satin red with black stripes. with black wheels, and leather guts.

"Going active" is using an electronic crossover (before the amplifier) to divide the frequencies between the individual drivers in a system so the bass goes to the sub (this is the normal way to do this one), the mid-range goes to the midrange speaker and the highs go to the tweeter. Normally the division between the mid a tweeter in a component set is done by a passive crossover (capacitors, inductors and resistors) after the amp. There are benefits to both kinds of setups. Good component sets have well matched drivers and the included passive crossover is designed to blend the drivers together well and account for the impedance curve of the drivers to make sure that the frequency division point doesn't wander with changing impedance. They are also simple to install and wire up and the hard part of the tuning is done for you. The disadvantages are primarliy the lack of flexibility and the fact that some power (though not that much) is lost in the crossover. Active setups allow you to select each driver yourself and match the response of the drivers to the needs of your selected install location. It also gives you discrete control over each driver limited only by the capability of the processor(s) that you're using. This allows you to EQ each driver individually, tailor filtering points and slopes and provide phase adjustment and time alignment. The disadvantages here are cost and complexity. You need a processor capable of dividing the frequencies at the very least and ideally able to provide complete signal control over each channel. You also need a channel of amplification for every speaker in the system. Those requirements can add considerably to the cost and unless you know what you're doing when it comes time to select the drivers and tune the system, all that extra cost won't yield you any benefit and it can easily end up sounding much worse than a decent set of components with a passive crossover. Bottom line, unless you know that you're willing to spend the time and effort to tune the system (and have the know-how or willingness to learn and a friend with the know-how), I wouldn't base any decisions on the future (and honestly unlikely) possiblity of moving to an active setup. If you just want a system to install and enjoy, active isn't the way to go and really isn't even worth considering. If you like to tinker and tune and mess around with stuff until you get it "just so" then an active setup might be for you.

Gut the whole thing and make an SQ car out it. Then take the wife out on a nice date in it, as thanks for letting you get this deep in these shenanigans.

16v is far from idiot proof...it can be much harder on amplifiers especially if you try to run a lower impedance.. 14v system is ideal, but I run 12v with a shit ton of reserve. You also must run a separate electrical system from your ecu on your car..otherwise you'll burn stuff up

They are a little deeper. But I had deeper speakers in there before, with no issues. Having it taken to a glass shop Monday to get a new one, then bringing it back to the shop to pull both door panels and checking clearance and re-tint it.

The DCONs are great subs but the GCONs will be better for your application. The quote button is in the bottom right corner of each post. Ahhh my iPhone hid it Til I actually clicked the bottom right corner. Damn man thanks a lot you've helped me the most with my sub setup so far.

Julian is mostly right.. I have done the calculations on this. IT is cheaper to get 16v AND be able to put out more VA on 16v than 12v, but requires a lot of weight and space. Big vehicles do not have this problem so it's ideal in this situation.

I never understood why SPL competitors would run at 12v. Good thinking.

Oh man she's only an hour away from me! Perhaps we can talk car audio.

Dude you have batteries!

I saw a chevellle that was satin black with gloss black stripes not long ago. He was also running CCW classics that were satin black face with a gloss black lip. It was pretty Badass.

I vote satin red with black stripes.

Sssssuussooollld

You are balancing an act of dealing with interference both constructive and deconstructive in a car. In general minimizing this should be the first goal as they will wreak havoc on your frequency response. Of course like anything in a car it is a compromise. Reflecting has a longer path length which is another thing you want to maximize in order to make the L/R as similar as possible. That being said in general it is still a terrible idea to fire off the windshield. Comparing an install where this question even comes up to one owned by someone with an ear for seriously tuning parametric equalizers and really dealing with the anomalies correctly is not a good idea. Sure competitors can do this and in some classes based on the rules might even be logical but the disadvantages outweigh the advantages and in general there are much better ways to achieve great sound. So yes, if you aren't willing to spend hours tuning and have both the gear and ear to do so then I'd avoid firing it at the glass. Reflections are a serious bitch. Have you ever seen a home audio system reflecting off anything? Serious listening rooms put traps and all sorts of things to block as many reflections as possible for this exact reason. Sure you may gain some staging but at the cost of frequency response. That compromise is not one I would ever recommend.

Thanks for the "not that old dad" I am sometimes the less mature one of the two of us. When we started this project I don't think either one of us thought it would get quite so over-the-top, but we have enjoyed it thus far. Lookin' forward to sharing the rest as it comes together. Thanks Again!