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RMS figures are useless? How so? Just how efficient of an enclosure are you talking about that the amp's power isn't a factor? Like... infinite baffle? Or maybe a 6th order with +12db gain? Or did you mean THOSE amps' RMS figures are useless? I'm going to assume that he meant that a slight difference in power will be inaudible, and that the enclosure will play a far bigger role.

It's trying to tell you something about that DD-1.

Good point, he can't. (2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load. Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question Let's back up a second. These drivers you keep referring to as "8ohm speakers." Are these the horns your talking about, or midbass drivers? I was presuming horns since you haven't picked a definite set of horns, and therefore hadn't picked a midbass driver yet. If horns, then why would you wire two together, as that would create mono--unless you decided to use 2 per side, and 4 total--which makes no sense. If your taking about using multiple midbass drivers than I retract my previous statement about not being able to do it. My other point was: if your using your headunit for active processing then it doesn't matter what ohm load anything is, the crossover points will not be effected.

All the recommended specs are "net" or after all displacements

So far nearly 2 months of it, I love tuna.. Just usually eat it plain lol. Your dick is going to fall off

800, 1000, 1300 watts rms : your ears won't feel any difference. So, don't focus on power. Unless you double the power, it's useless to have the more powerful amp for your speakers. Focus on a good custom box, as it plays a huge factor in how the sub will sound.

If you are offering additional pics, sure, that is always welcomed.... But I do have the one I saved on my fb page... (Checked to be sure)

I inserted my DD-1 disc into the KDC-X494 in my boat to set levels, and the CD won't eject. I press the eject button but it acts like I'm not pressing anything. Doesn't display eject or make any attempt to when I press it. It just ignores my pushing of the button. I tried pressing the reset button under the face, but no help. Any ideas? Is is a common Kenwood issue? How do I get my disc back!?

I've posted this same idea before and Nick helped me out on understanding it. There is no advantage to wiring in series first or parallel first or strapping vs not strapping, it's all the same power in the end. If we were to magically get less current by doing some exotic wiring, then ohms law would need to be revised.

The Saz1500 is a perfect match for that sub Or the Crescendo Bc2000. If you only only getting one sub then you want a D2

Bro, I'm ChILLn tonight!

Amp rack and box build:

App radio:

LOL at Big Jon being PC. A tampon?

he normaly putts up a 163 164, it was hot as balls yesterday he put up a 162.1 the subs are brand new, not any where near broken in.. he has 4 15 inch DD Z's

well.. import faceoffs san antonio 2012 was a great show for me and my teams, i took first in all my classes. trunk 1000+ with a 152.00 stock 601-1800 with a 151.somthing Street beat 3 with a 150.2 hugo made it too. with a first in this class along with flavius my buddy robert allways killinem dani got a bunch of videos,. ill just post my two big runs,... outlaw 152 burp @34 hrtz the bad.. i did cook a woofer after my runs... so... its back to the same ole recone game! streetbeat 150 may not seem like big number to yall but these cars are hard to make loud.. and as of now im the loudest lincoln town car in the nation.. that i know of.

Well as it sits my subs were wired in series at the sub, then parallel at the amps which were strapped together. Putting each amp at .5ohm Apparently, if I wire the subs to be parallel at the sub then wire each sub to it's own amp with each amp still at .5ohm. It will increase coil efficiency. When wired in series you get double the amperage but half the voltage. Causing heat to build up and efficiency to be lost. In parallel it does the opposite, you get half the amperage but double the voltage. So you still get the same amount of power, it' s just with a higher voltage causing less heat build up and higher efficiency. Which is where the gain comes from Which makes sense, when I was at .25ohm on the M4a, I could play music all day. And subs never got to hot. they were in parallel. Now with the D9's at .5ohm, I get about 2-3 minutes and they hot as hell. Even at the same volume as before, And are in series. This is how they were wired before, strapped together each amp seeing .5ohm. This is how they are now, separate from each other, still seeing .5ohm.

Like the great Jackie Moon said, "E.L.E. Everybody Love Everybody!" hahahah I've personally used the Skar VVX's and I was not impressed.

define cheap? Even if I wasn't repping Canon now I would still send you in that direction just an FYI. I think they make a much more usable product and in most price points the Canon's seam to have better features. I have an older model, but this would be similar I think. http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3_18_55mm_is_ii_kit If you want to be unique, you could get into the new generation of mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras. Sometimes they are called EVIL or gen3 digital. They are really interesting, but not fleshed out yet. Canon markets theirs to video more than stills. The coolest part about them is the smaller size. I might not instantly suggest Canon as the end all solution there, but they have some cool spin to them. Sony has it together on this front pretty well. Their glass is thought to suck in general though, but the features sound to be on POINT. http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_m_ef_m_22mm_stm_kit#Specifications Ultimately Mike it is all about the GLASS. You will replace camera bodies over time most likely, but the glass less so. Think of glass as an amazing set of speakers, and the camera is the receiver. Sure they are a team, but the glass is the more expensive and much larger limiting factor. Better analogy might be the scope on your rifle. Can't shoot what you can't see right? Well in cameras where you have different lenses, not only is it the limiting factor in what you can do, it also will be a MASSIVE part of the investment. WAY WAY WAY more than the camera for most people using DSLR.

2.25cuft per sub is the optimal size for the subs. My sister has a single 12 in that size tuned to 31hz and not only does it sound phenomenal but the output is amazing. There's really not much use in tuning as low as 28hz either. A box, with common chambers that's 6.75cuft NET tuned to the low 30's will be fantastic. What coil configuration did you order, SVC or DVC? If you're certain those dimensions you posted are accurate I would be glad to help you get something designed and drawn up.

Until the clown got on it......

I laughed way too hard at this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt0BIl6NGiw

These compression drivers from RC's GN should fit in swift's truck no problem

I have 3 of their amps and have never spoken to one person there. I did alot of research before buying aswell, because I tend to go by what peoples opinions are that actual run the amps instead of contacting the company itself. Of coarse they will say that their amps are what you want. What answer do you expect from them or any company honestly. You have 3 pages here of people saying they are a good company and make good equipment but you want to hear it directly from them first? LOL I did a 156 on music with ONE of their amps wired at .5 ohm and the amp never gets hot, Justins Blazer does 160 with Crescendo amps, Zack the bass boxing champ runs Crescendo, the list is long and I can keep going. For the money its a great amp that does just what it says. Any issues I have ever heard of have been handled very quickly. If you actually do some research on multiple forums and search you will hear the same answers from people who OWN the amps. If that still doesnt assure you then what else can we say. You will no doubt have some of the best customer service in the business right here on SSA. If you insist on immediate answers and want to talk to someone, then purchasing any product through this site is your best option.

When buying from ssa you can be assured you are covered and get the best advice possible.

People that worry, worry, ask, ask and ask end up being the ones with problems. It never fails in my business, the people that worry the shit out of me are the only ones we seem to screw up on. If ANYONE has a chance at having a problem you will be the one...............

Go thru ssa they are a autherized dealer and will back things. Ask Aaron Clinton!

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