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I vote Fi hault all non-contracted business for a period long enough to evaluate their business position and change what can be changed so the conclusion is what customers are looking for. I believe we've all had to do this in life before on things and the only way to truly fix the problem is just to step back and start over. When we get in a groove, no matter how much chaos is caused, we still think we can control it. I'm speaking from my experience and it's night and day when you just drop what you are doing and leave. Come back with new eyes.

How hard is it to hire a part time high school girl to play office girl? Return calls/emails. Give status updates? Maybe scan thru the forums giving help with order issues..

Sundown love... Mounts. How it all goes together.

The whole thing is staged and Gordon is not the driver.

And studs can't be used in most states, so this test does nothing for me.

That was no where near enough fiberglass to reinforce anything. I agree with the other guys, weld it and reinforce.

Mine has 160k on stock injectors. Mine has also been chipped since 10k miles. But I do run Deisel clean in every tank, dropped a ton of money on it last year but its all good. My truck is a beast and love it. When my injectors go then I will drop bigger ones in and also a bigger turbo. Gotta pay to play...

Percy would have sat out, refused to sign here. Considering we got a shitload for him. Plus we got him out of the division and took Jennings from a rival. GB got worse and we got better. Works for me.

Drove a CL65 AMG today, twin turbo V12. Did front brakes (4 calipers in front, 2 per wheel). People really pay $225K for that car? What a fucking waste.

The best solution is to weld the metal to the roof and add a stripper pole. The welding will peel off the paint on the outside of the car. I would probably cover the top half of the car in vinyl. That is cheaper than paint and can look great if done correctly.

Goal and "list" don't at all match. Absolutely idiotic to choose power before the box and goals. And without both of those NO ONE can help you "pick"

I cannot begin to convey how amazed I am with them. I have a fosgate t1500bd-cp on each and it for lack of a better word is just NASTY. Soooo accurate and yet soooo brutal at the same time. I have them each in 4 cubes after displacement tuned to 33. Sound great on the kick drums and then the loww notes hit and it is just mind blowing. I literally cannot play at full tilt while driving due to my vision getting so blurry. Ive never had that problem before

If you're coming from a JL 500/1 and a single 12" Arc sub in a sealed enclosure you sure as hell don't need two 15's to get LOUD in comparison. Also as already mentioned a pair of 15's in a trunk isn't going to be easy to build and will likely require the enclosure be built in the trunk. It doesn't sound to me like you have the experience necessary to take on a build of the proportions you're aspiring to and have it come out anywhere near optimal. That being said, I think you would be VERY happy with a pair of 12" Fi X series subs, SSA GCON's or even some Fi SSD's in a properly designed and built ported enclosure on a 1500 watt amp. It will be less expensive for the equipment, will be easier to build and implement, and won't require the sheer support in the electrical department and sound deadening that a 3500 or 5500 watt system would require. It will cost you less money, gain you some experience with doing the building and installation yourself, and still get WAY louder than what you're currently using. That's just my .02

like swollen?

I'm not bad mouthing FI products, because I know they have badass subs. However, their customer service is what prevents me from wanting to buy from them.

With one D4 sub you can wire it to 2 or 8 ohms... You can use one side of the coil and get 4 ohms... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurationsm.asp