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"stupid is as stupid does" You will understand once you see someone you know splatted all over the highway because someone wanted to be cool.

Was on a mobile device earlier. Can respond to this a bit better now. Let us see what is closed minded here. The guy who defends something that some marketing propaganda promotes or in this case me. Some history for you. In 1993, I took a 2 week independent study in college. Working as a sound engineer at the time I wanted a tuner that not only investigated tune but distortion and profiling of instruments and microphones. Steps in programming were. Write a tuner to determine both amplitude and frequency. Calculate the distortion. Unlike the POS that Steve sells, my code actually would measure all harmonics (limited by bandwidth of the acquisition card nyquist of course). It could do this on any arbitrary input as well, not some fixed frequency. Program was freely distributed on the web for years. I tried to discuss the algorithm with Steve, he grabbed his "design engineer" and neither could answer rudimentary questions. That is why he ran from here. Knew that they had overlooked a ton and didn't want it to be exposed where edits weren't in his power. In my lab, I have a suite of Bruel & Kjaer acoustic analyzing equipment that exceeds $100k in value. Also have a $60k Nicollet oscilloscope which measures harmonics out beyond 1GHz. Add to that a 3D scanning laser vibrometer that makes the Klippel look like a home brewed piece of shit. I could use ANY of it for setting gains. What do I use? My ear. Sounds pretty closed minded doesn't it?

I'm just glad I haven't messed with car audio in a while. After looking at invoices I spent WAY too much over the last few years.

Awesome

I just want to say I have always had good sound with Focal, Polk, and HAT components. I never knew shit about specs. I just went by reviews, price and, warranty.

I know SKARRRRRED 4 life thats why 400+400=1000 LOL

You should have got a Yukon grille and put a big SSA badge in place of the GMC.

At first glance the regular SP4 doesn't come with a spider spacer. That should be the easiest to tell.

You need to open up Neal's Audio & Auto.

I see a lot of people using these setups for older, light weight cars ... But do you think they will support the weight of a lead sled ???Oh yes. No issues at all. You're not that heavy.OK ... Figured out what we are going to do here. Got the suspension lubed up at the Car Care Clinic the other day.Yes, I got down in the bay with them to make sure they got everything done correctly ... Man, what a difference !!!So for the most part, we will use the factory suspension setup. We are going to add power sterring and Air Ride from Air Ride Technologies !!! They make a complete kit for this (49-51 Shoebox style Fords) car !!! Kind of figured this would be MUCH better than to try and replace the front clip and or frame running gear ... Thoughts ???They make good stuff and know their shit, so I'd trust what they have to offer. You're not racing it, so no need to do anything else really.

Referee jersey with a SSA logo?

I'm not going to have final say what the enclousres will be tuned to cause I'm leaving that up to Linear Power. Mid 30s ??? No thank you, I would run them sealed before I went any higher than 28 htz. but thanks for your opinion ... But whatever goes in there, I trust those guys not to dissapoint !!! Randal, you need to learn to read. Nowhere did I say to tune to the mid-30's I was referring to the response of the driver in an enclosure. If you'd pull your head up out of the LP BS for a second and actually spend 20 seconds modeling something you could learn a shit ton. When you do, you will see how stupid a 24Hz tune on some 8's up front will be. If Ray even hints that it is a good idea then he knows donkey dick about audio.

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/ported-single-15-subwoofer-enclosure.html

Need a better description of the knobs you are describing. If they are "boost" you shouldn't use them. Normally starting with them all flat is the best approach, but the process is iterative so don't expect to do it just once. As with setting ANY gain. First step is to find your limits for which you must listen to each driver independently. Frequency masking will really hide things from you otherwise. Goal is to find distortion that is audible to you and then not run it that hot. Each and every song will require an adjustment if you are running balls out. You have that capability to adjust right at your volume control. The bummer in the process is that you have to train your ear; the downside to this training is that it will make you want to keep improving what you have.

I already did. In this post. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59562-smd-dd1/?p=1002165

If you type "shirt" in the store search bar a Dickies shirt comes up. Good idea with the "would you like to add an SSA T-shirt, bumper sticker, coffee cup or whatever the fuck"!

Aaron - I just perused the store and couldn't find shirts. Mark's Polo shirt thread made me look for a tee. That being said, an upsell idea for you. Perhaps in the checkout you could add a "would you like to add an SSA T-shirt, bumper sticker, coffee cup or whatever the fuck" before the pay button. Bet you'd get a fair amount of ancillary sales that are all advertisements as well.

Next up 4 cube sealed box.

Was on a mobile device earlier. Can respond to this a bit better now.Let us see what is closed minded here. The guy who defends something that some marketing propaganda promotes or in this case me. Some history for you. In 1993, I took a 2 week independent study in college. Working as a sound engineer at the time I wanted a tuner that not only investigated tune but distortion and profiling of instruments and microphones. Steps in programming were. Write a tuner to determine both amplitude and frequency. Calculate the distortion. Unlike the POS that Steve sells, my code actually would measure all harmonics (limited by bandwidth of the acquisition card nyquist of course). It could do this on any arbitrary input as well, not some fixed frequency. Program was freely distributed on the web for years. I tried to discuss the algorithm with Steve, he grabbed his "design engineer" and neither could answer rudimentary questions. That is why he ran from here. Knew that they had overlooked a ton and didn't want it to be exposed where edits weren't in his power. In my lab, I have a suite of Bruel & Kjaer acoustic analyzing equipment that exceeds $100k in value. Also have a $60k Nicollet oscilloscope which measures harmonics out beyond 1GHz. Add to that a 3D scanning laser vibrometer that makes the Klippel look like a home brewed piece of shit. I could use ANY of it for setting gains. What do I use? My ear. Sounds pretty closed minded doesn't it? DROPS MIC.....WALKS AWAY! In epic Sean fashion

I bought a DD-1 after I blew my first sub setup, I fed into the youtube hype and haven't blown another setup...but I also ditched the DD-1. I set gains with it and my system sounded like shit. Common sense tells you that it would but I didn't take the time to think about it. It MAY be able to detect distortion at 2 frequencies but what about the other 29,000+ other frequencies that are coming through my speakers? I found music that was recorded and played particurlarly loud in my car and set the gains by ear to those tracks and use the HU to dial everything else in. It is a constant process for me to tune and get everything perfect but I have found a place I am pretty happy with, I found that setup using my ears and spending time LISTENING! I could have never achieved the sound I have with a meter or DD-1 or anything other than my ears

Okay guys; let the man have his thread and use whatever he wants. It is, after all, his car.

Word is, SMD is working on a plaque and gingivitis detector.

Have you tried using Torrez toothbrush calculator to figure out what toothbrush is right for you?

The widest one, and you don't eat with it.

I transferred the cardboard template to the MDF cover. Here is the MDF cut. I looks a little funny. I couldn't resist. I put the factory insulation back in place. Finally the rear cover is back in place. I put some threaded inserts in the MDF and bolted it in place from the underside of the rear deck.

Why the hell would you tune it so low and how can you fit that large of an enclosure in the kick?

Sound deadener showdown. AT is shit in comparison and throw in the fact that the owner has no idea how to properly deaden a vehicle. It's a no brainer.

Ah, I guess money is the motivation factor. Don's product speaks for itself. He doesn't need to give out deals like other companies so people will use his stuff. As for bad mouthing AT, I think the owner has done enough to ruin his own reputation.

Ha ... Nice bro.Just because of you, Don could practically give me a sponsosrship and give me enough deadner to do my car and I would turn him down ... Like you said, products speak for itself and he doesn't need to give out deals and support Car Audio because HE knows what he is doing ... The deadner in my truck is working JUST AS GOOD as the day I installed it ... and it was crap from day one, so whats your point? Do you mean it hasn't become even worse? Hard to do when it's at the bottom of the list for deadening products. Thanks for the -1's

Not the same type of woofer.... both great but different goals.... I love me some Xcon but I always look at BLs and just stare at them....

That's a big shirt

Just wondering what size to go with? When I ordered from Parts Express, the guy on the phone recommended 1/4" x 20, but turns out these dont fit the opening in my IDQ sub. What size does everyone else use?