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Shave door handles, and add a door popper

BC I'm planning on using 4 So you have a budget of $800 total for amps for your subs, and want the most power you can get? Do you have an additional budget to upgrade your electrical? Doesn't make much sense to drop $800 for a bunch of amps if your electrical isn't up to par, and I highly doubt replacing the battery with an AGM is going to be enough. I'm not trying to be rude but if you would read I will upgrade electrical That is not included in budget as I was always planning on it and just dont see the use in rerplacing a functional battery that has not faultered a bit with what i am running currently. I am already running 3 amps on it i plan on changing them all out to a better line possably same manufacturer. If you would have read you would notice that my current budgetis non existent so I am simply trying to get a broader range of ideas. In the past I've done big high quality comp builds going back to 96 wit RF Punch Power DVC 4-12's off 2 Punch Power 50M's on stock electrical wihout issues so Ill address alt if needed I plan on Battery upgrades that is not included in the amp budget. I do not have a hard limit im simply trying to see what I can getr away with. I read that you mentioned upgrading the battery, nothing more. I apologize for not catching the inference for further electrical upgrades. Other than Big 3 and Battery what do you suggest. I'm just curious what your recomendations are. Do you have a degree or masters liscense in Eletrical fields. I do I have done some calculations already so please enlighten me but I doubt your expertise isnt close to my background in this field. But please I want to hear your suggestion Unfortunately I do not have a degree in EE, so please feel free to take anything I say with a grain of salt. I've heard fast food is bad for health, but I'm not a doctor either! Anyhow let me speculate, and correct me when I'm wrong. You have four sundown X's rated for 1250watts each, so optimally you'd like 5000watts total for your subs since that's what they're rated for? With zero change in impedance, and 100% efficiency from the amp(s) that would require 5000w/14.4v=347amperes Say I'm being over optimistic, and you'd be happy with 2500watts, 2500w/14.4v=174amperes From what I could gather(which may be incorrect), the 07 mini coopers have an alternator rated for 105amperes, and it's not common for manufacturer's to use larger than necessary alternators as it's not cost effective and doesn't help with the HP and mpg. So I would presume that upwards of 80-90% of what the alternator is rated for is what the stock electrical demands, but let's say it only uses half, so 105a/2=50amperes. So you have 50amperes from the alternator, and say you have a big AGM battery like the xs power 5100 with an AH rating of 60, so for one hour it can discharge 60amperes at 12v? Let's pretend it could do that at 14v though. So for one hour you have ~110amps. 110amps is a lot less than 170amps or 350amps, so much so that voltage would quickly drop below 12v, you would risk ruining all electronics, and ultimately end up with a dead battery. Back to reality, the alt doesn't have a 50% excess in amperage, your amps aren't anywhere near 100% efficient, impedance on the amps aren't constant, and I didn't account for any amps you may be using for the front stage. So my suggestion would be getting a high output alternator if you plan on running anywhere near my speculated figures of power. I originally asked why you wanted to use two amplifiers, when one amplifier alone could easily surpass your vehicle's electrical. If your original post was clearer than perhaps I wouldn't have "ragged" on you about trying to use so much power with little change to the electrical system. I know if I were in your shoes I would most likely opt for a smaller amplifier that doesn't require all these costly upgrades as the amount spent and the gain in output wouldn't be worth it to me, and especially considering all the cone area you have available. Though as you have pointed out I don't have any degree to support anything I've said, so feel free to disagree. and thats why volvos are the best ladies and gentleman! I don't see how that's relevent or correct in ANY way.

I'm not sure of the question asked because you weren't clear. But I'll go ahead an assume With factory alt and one battery I wouldn't go much over 1k Now if you are putting a modest 5k to the 4 subs then it only takes basic knowledge of Ohm's law and a 3rd grade education to figure that you will be pulling 400 amps of current even if the amps are 90% efficient. But you incenuated that you have some sort of background in electricity so ill assume you already know that. You arent gonna find an alternator set up for that car that will bolt up that's large enough and you more than likely don't physically have enough room in the engine bay to custom build one. As far as batteries go amp hours can be figured based on current draw. And Stephan's question about the number of amps. It's dumb to get two amps over one if the larger one will fit as one larger amp will always be cheaper than two small amps of equal size.

BC I'm planning on using 4 So you have a budget of $800 total for amps for your subs, and want the most power you can get? Do you have an additional budget to upgrade your electrical? Doesn't make much sense to drop $800 for a bunch of amps if your electrical isn't up to par, and I highly doubt replacing the battery with an AGM is going to be enough.

If you blew it, you are doing something wrong.

I have some Incriminator Lethal Injection 15's for $165 shipped. Only a few weeks of playing time in perfect condition. They are dual two's.

Looks like it could do damage

Looks great Nem!

This pic tripped me out at first. I'm like, "where the fuck did the window go?" Then I realized. . . . . Truck looks great!

Okay so you have to meter tomorrow and i will explain more when i see you in the morning.

yup... lol i love my haters

this must of been a lifetime achievement

Looks really good.

Looking good nem!

im trying to figure out how i can make my switch come on with the factory cruise control on/off switch on my wheel.... on the cruise module it has 2 hot, and i was hoping that once the on button was pushed another wire would become hot,.. but no i think its fail safed with the speed sensor here are some wiring diagrams can anyone look at them and tell me what i need to do to bypass the speed sensor and make the shit work!!?? http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/HammerTime/2007-04-07_055705_Cruise_control_97_TC_pt2.gif http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/muddyford/2010-02-04_140244_1.png http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2012-07-02_230429_a1.jpg

yes and for in the lanes, this way i dont have to pop the hood and place a quarter and a dime in the throttle plate to idle it up !! i just just flip the switch!!! and it will make demos nice,. because now im either just doing them at idle or trying to hold my foot in one spot and that never works.. so when i change the song im reving the shit out of my motor !

ill post here but not in my build log because i dont want fools jackin my shit!! before ... after video... ill get a better one after its wired up

I feel bad for the Jeep already.

Info on the other amps will be coming along as well ; but not today -- so I didn't forget; just stay tuned

nbb

yup