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I cant take credit for this, I found it on another forum and saved it.

So today I replaced my 2 12'' Memphis c3's with a Xcon 15. I've been eyeballing this sub for a while but never had the funds to snag one. I ended up pulling the trigger, but with some hesitation. I didn't want to sacrifice any output moving from 12's to a single 15 and running the same amp. Well, after building a massive 5.75 cubic foot ported box tuned to 32 hz... my mind Is truly blown. I have my sub level at -15 out of 20 on my deck and this thing hits twice as hard as my Memphis c3's, on the same power. Sounds lightyears better ahead of those things also. I really am pissed that I didn't buy my xcon sooner... if your even contemplating buying this... don't waste another second. oh and im only running 1100 rms to this thing... scary to think what more would do. Thanks SSA, and everyone who helped guide me to buying this. I can't whipe this damn smile off my face now. I do have a question/concern tho... being the greedy little bastage I am, am I sacrificing any SQ/Output from going larger than optimal on my box? Dimensions are 38w x 18h x 18d tuned to 32hz Will post pics tomorrow, thanks SSA!

Almost but no. It has nothing to do with the crossover you apply electronically, but the mechanical crossover that occurs because of the box design. The 4th order boxes will have a 24dB/oct slope with NO electronic crossover (of course outside of an SSF it is not so logical to put a HP). This is irregardless of whether it is a normal bass reflex (ported) box or a bandpass. The bandpass has an additional mechanical filter which is a Low Pass that will roll off the higher frequencies as well. Personally I'd much rather apply this filter electronically instead of mechanically as it will allow you to change both the slope and F3 point of the filter.

After all that, what happened to the Gcon's?

Even if its underrated, the extra 100 or 200(if that) watts won't be noticeable at all. If your voltage isn't up to par for the 2000 then why jump up to the 3500. Make sure your enclosure is efficient and optimal for your subs. If not competing then more power would be my last upgrade.

You understand crossover slopes so then apply it to a box. Let me help clarify one other thing. What you call ported is actually a 4th order vented enclosure, what you are calling 4th order is actually a 4th order bandpass enclosure. A bandpass in nature will have rolloffs on BOTH the high frequencies and low frequencies, ie it only allows frequencies in the passband to play. There are some applications for 4th BP boxes, but they are few and far between and you have shown us NOTHING that makes them logical for your choice. Yes you can steer the width of the BP in the enclosure via design as you can watch the skarbage FL guys attempting to do, but this yields a "one note wonder" that in reality only buys you a shitty sounding enclosure. Of course you can steer the enclosure the other way as well, but good luck getting it right on even the third iteration. And even when right the standard 4th order ported enclosure will most likely give you a better response and fit your needs better.

Wow, I feel like an asshole now. Happy belated birthday Neil

start your own topic.. and stop clogging this one with your questions and pipe dreams please.

Damn. I need to VaCa with you sometime pimpin!

You work your lips around that tube like a pro. You must snorkel allotk

You can manually calculate port length with: Note that enclosure volume is net, and in cubic inches, so multiply your volume in cubic feet by 1728 to get cubic inches for Vb. Port area has to be converted to radius of circle in inches. Since area of circle is pi*r^2, you can translate your port area in squared inches to radius of circle by dividing by pi, and square rooting. IE: 2.92ft^3 volume and 24in^2 port area, 30hz tuning 2.92ft^3 x 1728 = 5045.76 in^2 24in^2 / 3.14 = 7.64, square root of 7.64 = 7.64^0.5 = 2.76in radius Lv = [ (1.463 x 10^7 x (2.76)^2 ) / (30^2 x 5045.76) ] - 1.463(2.76) = 20.5 inches. So with the net volume of the enclosure being 2.92ft^3, 24in^2 port area, and 30hz tuning, the port length would need to be 20.5 inches. The displacement of the port is portarea x port length, or 24in^2 x 20.5in = 492in^3 or 492in^3 / 1728 = 0.28ft^3 So the internal volume of the enclosure after driver and bracing displacement needs to be 2.92ft^3 + 0.28ft^3 = 3.2ft^3 or 2.92ft^3 with an external port. I hope that sheds some light on the topic.

Wrap around gaskets can be problematic on bare wood. If it is only leaking around the sub get some 1/4 inch thick foam from the hardware store and stick around the baffle cut out.

XS power just in case you want to upgrade your set up, you'll have it.

Nice list you got there! Cool to see some other Basshead knows about BASSordeath, those are my bro's right there. Heres another good channel http://www.youtube.com/user/goddamnzebras

I bought them on presale before SBN 2012 but I went overseas for my job for 13 months and never hooked them up. I will be switching to Incriminator Amps very shortly but i will only be going with two. Guess what they will be! 80.1's? gonna send me those skar's for guessing correctly? My boat needs a new anchor...

LOL....

So, lately Ive been asking a lot of questions about subs that I've been interested in. I've narrowed down the subs to just two choices 2 Sundown SA-12s or 2 Fi SSD 12s. After purchasing the subs I plan to build a ported enclosure and purchase an amp. I want loud subs with deep bass. Tell me which subs you would go with and why. Also if you'd have experience with either subs. Also would like to purchase an amp under 300$ that's 1200-2000 watts any suggestions. Thanks.