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As the title says I am looking for competitors to do R&D on a large SPL driver. For testing purposes only one driver will be available in either a 12, 15, or 18. This is a very large driver weighing about 105 pounds. Below is a comparison picture of the driver's coil next to a Ethos and FI BTL N3 coil. The coil is 95mm long 3 inch 8 layer dual one ohm coil with an Re of .9 ohms per coil. The coil produces a BL of 51.5 and a motor force factor of 1,484. I am looking for a seasoned competitor with a few years experience preferably someone that has attended nationals a few times. If you are interested send me a PM with your info.

Oui, this is what happens when I only work on emails all weekend, take half a day off and not keep on top of the forums every 30 minutes like always. First off, this customer ordered a D4, as he said, for the first sub. When it arrived, he swore up and down that he got a D2 sub. Which by the way, had never happened before where a customer was sent the wrong coil, so it was VERY surprising to have someone say they got the wrong coil. Since he was so adamant about the wrong coil and has been accusatory from the get go, I assumed he was using a trusty DMM and was reading it correctly, I apologized for the supposed mistake of the build house, so for his second sub, we adjusted it to a D2 coil. So his second sub came and appears to be a D2 as ordered. For future reference, there are three different people who check or overlook the sub before it leaves the build house, so to say we have no quality control is clearly not accurate. There is markings on the box, the build ticket and the former, so it is HIGHLY unlikely that a sub would ever ship out with the wrong VC. Yes, we are a small brand, but clearly we have experience doing this and we have NEVER and I mean NEVER screwed over a customer and as explained and posted numerous times in a thread, if a mistake was made we have always worked to correct it asap. So for one customer to be claiming it happened twice, seems quite odd. As explained in this thread, the D4 coils have a resistance lower than D4, same with D2. The Gcon does NOT come in a D1 coil option as there are D1 coils for it. This is due to a number of reasons, power compression, impedance rise or box rise etc., so that the coils rest below the stated resistance and with natural rise will be closer to stated resistance. (Alton's explaination is much better then mine: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/60275-two-new-ssa-subs-showing-diffrent-ohms/page-3#entry1020077) For example, if you get a D4 ohm subwoofer from a different brand that uses 4.0 ohm Re, after natural rise it will be higher than a D4. One easy way to know for sure is on each former, above the coil should be written in black sharpie, stating the voice coil that is on the subwoofer. As it stands now, with everything written out by the customer as the facebook messages did not contain all of this info, we can only assume that the first Gcon was a D4 as ordered and the second Gcon was a D2 as ordered. This may be partially my mistake as I did not ask for a photo of the formers from the get go, but I have never had to do that before. If the customer truly is the first one with wrong voice coils, we will clearly correct it, but if the first one was read wrong..... Side note, with SSA store rewards, the total was $444, not $457.

This is my 1st hands on build in ~15 yrs, so go easy on me.LOL the intro is a lil long- but wanted to get the story in. I always like readin how and why builds come about. My son/s and I will be tackling a 18" xcon install in my 01 Grand Vitara, referenced to as 'Zuk for short. I bought this lil SUV from a friend with the intentions to drive it for a bit- then hand it over to my oldest when he turns 16 (in about 16 months). I have always had a lil bump in my cars, so it was inevitable that it happen to the Zuk. Alway ran typical box store systems, Alpine, Kicker, Etc. Just started to learn about SSA, Fi, Crescedo, etc about a 6-7 months ago- when I bought my Suburban- and started thinking bout 18's for it. I mean my Passat has a Kicker IX1000 and 2 15's and I thought it was pretty bad ass til i learned about this stuff. Been lurking here for a few months- trying to absorb some knowledge, so now to step up my game. Well- Bout 2 months ago my son asked if we could boom the Zuk. I happened to have some 10" GS Reds in my attic that I've had for a decade, and bought a soundstream 4 channel to drive them (thinking I'd use it for my mids amp in the Burb eventually). Bought a Ground Shaker box of an online car stereo site(wink). and a Scosche amp kit from wally world. My boy and I installed it all...bumps pretty decent. Forward to now. Was planning to swap the GS 10's out for some SA's or Dcons, so I was on the lookout for a mono amp to drive them, and saw 'W140' selling a Skar 1500. Not my first choice with their rep round here, but I couldn't pass up the price. Got the Amp- installed it this week here at work. (BTW I work 7/7 here in Houma LA- Live in South Alabam). Even on the crappy 6awg wiring, and the amp turned down, and at 2 ohms, those lil 10's woke up! Figuring the 300w max Redlines were short for this world at 1K watts, back to looking for subs. Well 'W140' done it again...selling a 18 Xcon D1...thinking I can buy this now and find another later to do 2 in the Burb- iwe came to an agreement, so now I have a 18" Xcon on the way! And of course I know the wiring has to be upgraded... Other items on the way: 75' 0awg cca wire(Executioner from Audio Technix) 20 terminals from sky high weather tight fuse holders w/150 amp fuses Hammer crimper for wiring OK, so, I took measurements, and went to working with winISD and sketchup(new to both, cool stuff though) that I conned our IT guy into DL'ing onto my work computer(LOL). So, this is where I am at. It isn't optimal- but it is ~6.5cuft, tuned to 31, ~84in of port, port is 18.5x4.5x25"long. Gonna take the entire cargo area up to the seat back. Going home tomorrow- Got my cut list ready for Home Depot, hopefully they'll cut the wood for me so I can fit it inside the truck.

What's up homies? It's been a while since I've posted anything meaningful. Here is my latest audio venture. It's the Zephyr kit by the latest audio start-up, DIY Soundgroup. A little history/search words about this kit. It's fashioned around the Econowave style, although there is nothing econo about this kit. It was designed by Jeff Bagby. And that's about all I know. My goals: 1. To have a reference sound system so I know what to listen for when tuning my auto sound system. 2. Be able to achieve nutty ass rock concert levels. 3. Finally be effing cool. Here is my start, wood! Box sides coming together. The kit came with a pre-cut baffle. The design calls for a double front baffle, so that meant I needed to cut a second baffle with matching holes. I started off by gluing gluing the second baffle on to the pre-cut baffle. To keep everything lined up I opted to dowel the two baffles together using my trusty but useless drill guide. With the baffles glued I drilled some pilot holes for the jig saw. My work with a jigsaw. :-0 A close up of my fine craftsmanship. You didn't really think that was it, did you? Time to clean up the carnage from the jigsaw. Viola, finished baffles. A couple of close up shots. More on the way.

If you can get with taylor gardner aka taylorfade on caco, I know he does quite a bit of testing amps and subs. And hes local to you somewhat.

http://youtu.be/dbaDSgR7o3A

Get my GM back door pass on Thursday. Pretty psyched. Going to be able to go into any facility at anytime without escort.

Still sticking to the winter/summer thing? I can't possibly image after getting a taste of "dem lows" how could you go for sealed. You are not that old to be too loud.

Because W201 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEEj4kXY_tM

Read the rules. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/56710-read-the-rules/

Awesome! That is one of my xcons. Take care of it.

Thats what the Zv4 is for lol If I wanted Sundown I wouldn't be on FI's page.

Don't have an 'official' release date...we never have for anything and we never will. The tab that is on the website should be a bit of a clue. The reason there are a handful of people that have them and have put them up on youtube and what not was to do field testing to prevent any issues with happening with a few parts that we haven't used before. We got the information that we were looking for, made a few adjustments and they're about ready for release. I've had zero time to do any emails, office work, etc for the past week due to people being out sick and everything in the shop breaking at least twice. Photos have to be edited and put up on the site and then they will be released for ordering. Thanks for your patience and understanding!

he says one is reading 1 and one is reading 4, i really wonder if he's hooking things up wrong.

And everyone else who is not Aaron, Mark, or the original poster, STAY OUT OF THE THREAD!

what fuckin records ssa set? Please answer that you fuckin fool

what fuckin records ssa set? Please answer that you fuckin fool

This is really going nowhere good, just email SSA and they will resolve the issue. Remember that it is a holiday weekend, and they most likely won't get back to you right away. Enjoy your weekend, I can assure you that if there was a mix up that it will be corrected.

EVERY speaker is rated for a nominal impedance. Impedance is the resistance measurement that is used because a coil with AC voltage applied is reactive. Depending on the frequency that's applied and the inductance of that coil that resistance changes unlike with DC where resistance is simply resistance. The nominal impedance is more like the average impedance seen on a given driver over its specified frequency range. THAT is why you measure it with a DMM and see a lower resistance than its given impedance. Sure, mistakes happen, but as several have mentioned the resistance of the coil is written on the coil when it is wound. Read it and see what it says. The DC resistance you measure with a DMM WILL NOT MATCH THE RATED IMPEDANCE ON ALMOST ANY DRIVER. Like I said, go to Partsexpress for example and look at the thiele/small parameters for any speaker you want to. The Re (DC resistance) rating will be lower than the given impedance for pretty much every one of them.

Note to ANY new member. Don't ever act like this, it won't get you anywhere. A little bit of sugar goes a long way son

also false

Im afraid you don't know as much as you think you do, at least not in this instance. A DMM measures DC resistance only. The 4 ohm or 2 ohm rated "impedance" of any speaker is an AC resistance. Look at the "Re" spec on any sub on the market which is the DC resistance of the coil and it will almost never match the rated impedance and most times isn't even close and can even be about half the stated impedance. You were sent a D4 to start with, and got the D2 you ordered the second time. The fault is yours, not theirs. I'm sorry, but that's the truth of it.

They are fi parts ssa just glues them together. Like I said tge one in the vid is sussposed to be a dual 4 but its a dual 2 now my new one is sussposed to be a dual 2 but it measures dual .5

An im very mad. It cost me 457 bucks for these 2 an both them have screw ups

45 min from br. More towards marksville

2ohm

From how it looks, you ordered a 4ohm, and received a 4ohm. Now you ordered a 2 ohm so you have 2 different subs. How do you know the sub you originally ordered was 2 ohms and not 4?Dude im not pucking stupid I know how to check ohms. They fucked up twice with me because they are GARBAGE! Here is my first one that was sussposed to be dual 4 ohm http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid657.photobucket.com/albums/uu295/sld225/20130831_141331_zps91f82d79.mp4 Now watch the god damn video instead of making assumptions like you know what the fuck your talking about

You have to wait for them to become a public release like anybody else. Its not that hard, if you can't wait then move on. No need to make a big deal, they are just subwoofers man.

I originally ordered just one gcon 4ohm dvc but they sent a 2ohmdvc so I said screw it an ordered another 2ohm dvc so I can have a pair. Fast forward to today an here we are

I don't believe I said linear spiders suck. Please find it and quote it for me if I did. I said progressive spiders are better for the application of a ported alignment. As I said before, a spider is a spring. A linear spider will have a smooth curve through its movement. Meaning it gets tighter and tight at a smooth constant rate until its stretched out similar to say an accordion. Now on a progressive spider it gets tighter nice and smooth just like the linear spider up until it hits xmax. Once it hits this point it gets exponentially tighter acting as a break, to help the driver from hitting hard mechanical limits if that makes sense. Given the fact that ported enclosure unload below tuning its good to use a progressive spider as a safety feature.

Up for trade is my (original owner) 2010 15" Fi BL and my Rockford Fosgate T-1000bd. Both 10/10 working condition. Sub is 9/10 cosmetically and the amplifiers cosmetics are a 8/10. My next install is SQ oriented so I would trade for: Sundown E/SA, Fi Q, SSA D/G/Icon, etc. (Something that can perform sealed andcash can be mixed in with trade.) The amplifier traded for something in the 600rms-800rms range or a solid 4-channel. Im downsizing my setup so almost anything is on the table for a possible trade. Ill listen to any offers.

Worked longer than I planned today. Pictures will be up tomorrow once I can get all the equipment out.

Pics will come tomorrow sometime after work. In the meantime imagine a pristine 15" Fi BL and an aesthetically pleasing older model T-1000bd. I'm hoping for some serious inquiries before I uninstall everything for pictures. I don't like to go 1 car ride without them

They are both subwoofers

I know how they work and what they do. You're not showing me how progressive is better. If linear spiders suck as far as SQ and SPL, you wouldn't see them on 95% of all SQ drivers. Then You wouldn't see them on high powered drivers either, Ti pro's, 1st gen SS XXX, TSNS, T2000's, DDZ's, DD9500 series, tantric HDD/SHD, NSv2's, Zv4's, HDC4's etc. The list goes on. Where are your figures coming from and what driver are they being based on? I'm not trying to criticize anything. Concept and theory.

So, basically you're saying it's better for stupid people? Also, I never said you said they suck.

You know you wait an wait an buy wood an screws an tite bond an buy amps an wire an rca an batts an expect your shit to be nice annnnn pucking wammo shit all stupid because of stupid small sub company has absolutely NO QUALITY CONTROL

Thanks for answering a question I havent asked

people are selling Sundown Xs brand new in box, so they must be poopy.