Leaderboard

Regardless of any speaker..period..they are ALL going to get warm. Any and all speakers from a mechanical energy standpoint are horridly inefficient. They basically work like a hair dryer. The coil in a hair dryer isn't that much diferent than a coil in a speaker, the fan motor in the back of the hair dryer blows air over top of the coil that is wound to induce heat. The coil in a speaker moves converting electrical energy into acoustical output that you hear with your ears. The only problem is that well over 95% of the energy that is put into the coil is not used and is lost in the transfer process and is burned off as nothing more than wasted heat energy. The amplifier applies power to the coil..in which it heats up. The whole point is to a) don't get a bullshit amp that cheaps out on parts that causes inductive heating and b) when you smell the coil glue turn it down. I've done that for years..with no scope..no dd-1..not a damn thing and have yet to blow a speaker or burn anything up. Of course, this was before the days of full retard "BASS BOOSTED" music when things were actually recorded..decently. Some of the shit music that is out there today is most definitely the problem behind people burning everything up. It's not rocket surgery..it's brain science.

Says who? TEASE!! There is currently nothing planned, but that doesn't mean it won't happen. (double negative)

Says who?

I went to a comp today and did a 127 in park in pound and a 148 @ either 33 or 34hz at the head rest

do you even own a evil? i find it funny you requesting something bigger .... when you have yet to own the biggest in the series....... come to think of it.. i dont even remember you running a Zcon. you can dislike this now.

Hey friends, just wanted to share my most recent build with you all, my first Solo X 15. This was a challenging sub to build, but a lot of fun. Big thanks goes out to David, Rusty, and everyone who had a hand in helping make this happen (too many to remember). A lot of people stepped up and helped out, but none more than the man himself, David Moore@PSi. He and Rusty answered every question I could come up with, and without them both, this would not have happened, period. So thanks guys, it really means a lot! So I started with an idea to build a Solo X 15. Little did I know it had already been done, multiple times by PSi. (Check it out) So, I began talking to David about doing some for my PT, but had a problem with how they were going to end up. See, until now, the most any Solo X has been built for daily on music was ~2K, and the reason was simple: the coil. Kicker did some really nice things with the design of this motor, but they screwed themselves by only using a slim 4 layer flat-wound coil in a tight gap. 5K RMS is a fantasy, and no Solo X will last long with that much power. So I got to thinking... how could I improve this? So while thinking, I started buying up motors. I found three right off the bat. But one was a little rough, with a scratched up bottom plate, and no motor boot. And when I removed the frame, the top plate shifted on me. This wound up being a blessing in disguise. To fix the shift, the top plate had to come off. Once it was off, I got an idea. And after talking to the right people, my idea was verified. The idea was simple: cut the gap a little bigger to fit an 8-layer coil. So I took it (top plate) to my local Harley shop, to have their machinist cut out the gap, drill the new bolt holes, and cut the center of the new frame, so it will sit down on the top plate flush, the way I want. When everything was done, it looked like this. So now they were almost ready to be re-married, but first, I wanted to do a little work to improve the looks. And, I had an idea on securing the top plate. So... See what I'm doing here? Notice I did away with all the old unnecessary bolt holes. And finally, she's ready to go back together. Then once I got it down right, and all 4 posts secured, time for more body work!

You do understand that the sub has to wear in over time right? It's not going to drop low and be up to its full potential right out of the box. Play it, it will come alive. If you're planning on the speakers moving assembly to flop around like a dead fish out of water that's not the intent of the speaker. If you see videos of them moving like that online it's due to somebody playing WAY below their boxes tuning frequency with no subsonic filter and they're going way past the linear point (which is 18mm). Then these are the same people who flip the hell out about yanking the tinsel leads out of their subs or burning them up. The BL is not meant to be a high excursion sub by any means. You're irritated because it isn't' moving 4"? Or are you irritated because it doesn't sound how you desire it to sound? FWIW, ca.com went to shit 7-8 years ago - you are doing things right and properly, don't fall in the dismal abyss of the self proclaimed 'experts' of the internet..you'll jack something up in a heartbeat.

Ditch the DD1 and tune the amp by your own senses.

Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question. I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well. I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15. My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone.

I don't like how the cover panels sits on top of the amps and I got the crescendo because the skar's board are red.

That's how it is now but I kinda don't like though

Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry

We are going to be spending a week in Hawaii. A week at Yellowstone. And a week in the interior of Alaska hopping trains.

And overheated drivers smell like shit. The morale is don't listen to shit and that works on MANY levels.

well.. try not to listen to your nose, it may sound smelly.

The only thing shocking to me is how often this topic pops back up. If you at all spent even 30 seconds searching this site you'd have never bought the DD-1. Proven over and over and over again. There is only ONE purpose the DD-1 serves. And that purpose is to put money in SMD's pocket.

Why would anyone really want to "max out the potential of their subs"? Are you competing, or just being that asshole riding down the street forcing me to listen to your shitty music? Anyways, no a clip indicator is not going to work as well as a $5K scope, in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. Next, if you are afraid that you are clipping your amp, buy a more powerful amp. Headroom is a good thing. Every single component in every single one of my systems has an amplifier that is rated at significantly more power then each component is rated at. Set the amps correctly, listen for stresses in the system, then dial it back. Why would you want to buy an amplifier that you have to push to it's limits just to achieve your desired goal? You are pushing linearity, risking clipping, and building heat. None of these are beneficial to your expensive components. Would I buy a Smart car to make the run from LA to Vegas at 100MPH, or would it make more sense to buy a Corvette to make that same run? Pushing a Smart car to it's absolute limit is not beneficial to the vehicle, but the Vette will have a ton of headroom. Set the system at 0db for daily driving use. There is no need to push it beyond that. I am also quite sure that your subs drown out your front stage... awesome. I would dial it back further to blend well with the front stage, but I doubt your ultimate goal is sound quality. All my systems subs are set at 0db with my ears (I am listening for stress, not clipping), and then all are dialed back via the remote to achieve a flat system, not an overboosted bass heavy rattle trap. That way if someone wants to hear what my subs can do, I can safely show them, but when I actually want to enjoy my system, I can easily dial it back to normal listening levels in just a few seconds.

Yea, a few months after i had my dd-1 i did research and learned. Ever since then the whole thing in that manual that relates to -5 db being for sq and so on is very asinine. Even a lot of those unaltered songs can still clip with that -10 tone. A quick break down for you is that, on tones, usually the rms value is half power of the peak. So a -5 tones rms would be -8 rms, a -10 tones rms would be -13 and so on. Although, on music its usually way less, so a song with a peak of -2 could have an rms of -7 to -12, usually but not always true.

And my immediate assumption is that's a bad thing? Would you want to tune everything with a 0db or -5 db instead? Are all types of music variable with regard to db? Don't use any tone, unless that is all that you plan on playing. Use your ears and brain.

Okay so when I last left off, I was waiting for the dust cap. Well it came in, and I'd already had two logos cut for it, one in black & one in silver, so I could decide which one to use. It still took me almost two days to decide, and I finally went with the black. Btw I know these are simple logo's, but I completely designed them, they use different fonts for each letter, so I know they are "different". I think it's perfect. "SX V2" - I call mine v.2 because PSi already did them, but mine is a different version, hence the "V.2". So here is the cap and logos, right after getting the cap in the mail. The bottom is my original printout. So then I taped up the bottom plate of a 10" Kicker L7, to use for weight to press the cap down while the glue sets up. Done. And this one, I did a good job, no glue where it's not supposed to be After letting it setup for 24 hours, time to put the logo on, and call the project finished. (Well almost, still want to put some tech-flex on the wires) And here are the parameters I came up with. I don't know that they are all accurate, b/c this is a large driver, with a SUPER tight suspension, and the "added mass method" is just not the best way to do the test. But unfortunately, it's the only way I know to do it. So here is what I came up with... * This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System * * Manufacturer: Trent Stover - Purplehaze * Model: Solo X 15 V.2 * Piston Diameter = 330.2 mm * f(s)= 41.43 Hz * R(e)= 2.96 Ohms * Z(max)= 87.24 Ohms * Q(ms)= 15.693 * Q(es)= 0.551 * Q(ts)= 0.532 * V(as)= 41.900 liters (1.480 cubic feet) * L(e)= 6.31 mH * n(0)= 0.73 % * SPL= 90.71 1W/1m * M(ms)= 288.80 grams * C(ms)= 0.04 mm/N * BL= 31.27 Now the main #'s I'm not sure about are the Qms (seems too high), the Vas (got different #'s every time), the Mms (too low 4 sure) and the Bl (also too low). I'm sure the fs will drop once it gets broke in, and the other stuff could be wrong due to my inability to use a different method. So anyway, what do you all think?

I'm not going to take aim at any one person or forum but over here, we despise deception. It's better to educate the uneducated rather than sell things to the uneducated and let them remain uneducated.. However, we, even in person, can't accomplish this always as i've tried with some people. Some people are just so ignorant that they either refuse or cannot comprehend anything. For those people, they MUST pay for everything and it's their fault.

Not really sure what you are asking. Sort of sounds like you are asking if the DD-1 has any value which of course it does not. It is an absolute waste of money and 100% useless.

Today's progress!! Gunnar(my oldest) and I got to work of the box. All together except for the top baffle. Pics- My lil man Max posing for one.LOL Now I need a circle jig. Hate to use a jigsaw- but I may have to.

Free dubstep every time you connect.

I heard two 12's on 2k rms and the shit strait up slammed. Choked me aalmost

Do you really need to be able to roll down your windows? Gotta be able to holla at bitches, yo Tell me you watch Breaking Bad.

do you even own a evil? i find it funny you requesting something bigger .... when you have yet to own the biggest in the series....... come to think of it.. i dont even remember you running a Zcon. f you can dislike this now. LMAO, damn man, why are your panties in a bunch about a hypothetical sub? And no, I've never owned an Evil, also I didn't know there was a requirement to own something first to want something bigger.

I'd assume it was stolen.

Great deal! I would grab it all if I was in the area. But yeah be careful haha

Still not quite clear on what happened to the original sub woofer, as to why it is reading so off after power was applied. But we are still sending out a recone kit to fix the issue.

Oui, this is what happens when I only work on emails all weekend, take half a day off and not keep on top of the forums every 30 minutes like always. First off, this customer ordered a D4, as he said, for the first sub. When it arrived, he swore up and down that he got a D2 sub. Which by the way, had never happened before where a customer was sent the wrong coil, so it was VERY surprising to have someone say they got the wrong coil. Since he was so adamant about the wrong coil and has been accusatory from the get go, I assumed he was using a trusty DMM and was reading it correctly, I apologized for the supposed mistake of the build house, so for his second sub, we adjusted it to a D2 coil. So his second sub came and appears to be a D2 as ordered. For future reference, there are three different people who check or overlook the sub before it leaves the build house, so to say we have no quality control is clearly not accurate. There is markings on the box, the build ticket and the former, so it is HIGHLY unlikely that a sub would ever ship out with the wrong VC. Yes, we are a small brand, but clearly we have experience doing this and we have NEVER and I mean NEVER screwed over a customer and as explained and posted numerous times in a thread, if a mistake was made we have always worked to correct it asap. So for one customer to be claiming it happened twice, seems quite odd. As explained in this thread, the D4 coils have a resistance lower than D4, same with D2. The Gcon does NOT come in a D1 coil option as there are D1 coils for it. This is due to a number of reasons, power compression, impedance rise or box rise etc., so that the coils rest below the stated resistance and with natural rise will be closer to stated resistance. (Alton's explaination is much better then mine: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/60275-two-new-ssa-subs-showing-diffrent-ohms/page-3#entry1020077) For example, if you get a D4 ohm subwoofer from a different brand that uses 4.0 ohm Re, after natural rise it will be higher than a D4. One easy way to know for sure is on each former, above the coil should be written in black sharpie, stating the voice coil that is on the subwoofer. As it stands now, with everything written out by the customer as the facebook messages did not contain all of this info, we can only assume that the first Gcon was a D4 as ordered and the second Gcon was a D2 as ordered. This may be partially my mistake as I did not ask for a photo of the formers from the get go, but I have never had to do that before. If the customer truly is the first one with wrong voice coils, we will clearly correct it, but if the first one was read wrong..... Side note, with SSA store rewards, the total was $444, not $457.

Closest guess yet. Good guess. Here they are, fs is a little high, but it's not bad really for what it is. Overall I am pleased. * This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System * * Manufacturer: Purplehaze * Model: Solo X 15 v.2 * Piston Diameter = 355.6 mm * f(s)= 41.06 Hz * R(e)= 0.63 Ohms * Z(max)= 22.92 Ohms * Q(ms)= 16.276 * Q(es)= 0.457 * Q(ts)= 0.444 * V(as)= 49.620 liters (1.752 cubic feet) * L(e)= 1.55 mH * n(0)= 0.99 % * SPL= 92.07 1W/1m * M(ms)= 337.70 grams * C(ms)= 0.04 mm/N Now what do you all think?

Well, yesterday I picked up the vinyl decal I had printed, and then proceeded to mess both of them up. Here is what I had in mind. But here is what went wrong. So here is what I'll probably end up using (except I have a brand new one I'll use) So what do you all think? Should I have another SX logo printed, and try it again? Or just go with the silver carbon fiber one?

you sure did get out of the box... i know alot of people that wish they had your skills ... now that recones are no mas

holly shit that was alot of work... you must love those motors. great work btw

Oops, I almost forgot the butt shots... The black ring around the center is a "scuff pad" I came up with, to protect the paint. It is a just black vinyl ring, it can come off easily to be replaced. It works! Front shots will have to wait till I get the logo and dust cap installed. Shouldn't be long... Thanks for lookin', and for all the kind words. I appreciate the support!

One the left is the 4 layer, on the right is the 8 layer for this build. Lets compare! For the ones going in my car, I will use the 4 layer coils. But that's another build Now let's see how well the 8 layer fits in it's new home.. So now onto the suspension. I used a linear roll quad, spaced TC sounds spider pack. Bottom two were first, after cleaning the frame. You may have noticed the nylon band used to glue the bottom side of the top spiders. That worked perfect! But before glue, I soldered the leads. Sorry, didn't take a lot of pics of the cone going on, I had my hands full. But here it is right after, when I was doing the direct 8g leads. Ready to rock and roll! But of course I had to wait on more glue to finish it up. Here we go, CA on the spiders and some nice rubberized stuff for the surround. And now to dry Coil check shows exactly what they did before, awesome! And that is where she sits, still waiting for the dust cap logo to be printed and installed. So stay tuned, I will update this with final pics, specs, and numbers. As well as some vids in action. So thanks again to all involved, and keep watching, this is only the beginning for me!

And after several hours of sanding, filling, etc, this is what I got. Then some color For the frame as well Hmm don't she look sexy! So then I joined the frame and top plate. I chose to use bolts/ lock washers and glue. She ain't going anywhere. Then I decided to add screen to protect the coil. It is aluminum window screen, I just cut it and added some black paint. Then glued them in place, one by one. Then once that was finished, it was time to address the bottom plate. Ready for paint And the bottom plate is painted! So now after looking long and hard, I finally found my coils! We are ready to put this beast together! More on the way...

This thread is never dead. It shall live on as long as this forum is online. 2007 Icon prototype next to 2012 Icon prototype:

Here's a new one

There will not be a team ssa sub.

Those subs endured a long journey from China...

I've heard drugs can help people lose weight. You don't see overweight people at raves...