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Better start feeding the wife Gatorade.

That's every man's problem.

I'll try to put this in Laymen's terms as much as possible. I will not go into hand calculating as it is tedious and the tables are too much to copy here. To hand calculate purchase a copy of the Loudspeaker Cookbook. I use the calculator on Car Stereo's site as it is close to doing it by hand. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=27 The reference for the following in formation: Vance Dickason, "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook 7th Edition," Audio Amateur Press,2006. DEFINITIONS. A sealed rear chamber bandpass enclosure is basically a closed-box system with the addition of an acoustic filter in series with the front radiation of the driver. TERMS. fb = tuning frequency of front chamber vent fl = f3 of low frequency rolloff fh = f3 of high frequency rolloff Lv = vent length Qbp = q of bandpass rear chamber R = vent radius S = passband ripple (variation in magnitude response / boost in output) Vf = volume of front chamber Vr = volume of rear chamber Vt = total volume of both chambers WOOFER SELECTION. Drivers with higher Qts normally yield lower f3 rolloffs. If it works well in a sealed box it should work well in 4th order bandpass Using the terms form the cookbook I'll walk through how to use the calculator on carstereo. 1. number of drivers. simple input the number of subs you are using. 2. Isobaric or not? This set up will not be isobaric. 3.enter parameters of the driver. I'll be using the Ethos 15. Qts = .64 Vas = 95.9 liters / 3.386 cubic feet fs = 25.78 4. choose an "s" factor The "s" or ripple factor is a ripple or a peak or valley shown in the passband between the low and high roll off. When you model a sub and the line isn't straight and it dips or is raised this is ripple or "S" factor. A factor of .7 will have a flatter response than .6 and .5. "S" factor is also an indicator of transient response and passband. A "S" factor of .5 will have a degraded transient response than .7 however will have a larger passband, but will normally require a smaller box. As always the triangle applies. You won't have a small box with a large passband and tight response. For now we will choose a S factor of .7 5. choose fl or lower roll off. EVERYONE likes the lows so let's choose 20 hz 6. Hit calculate and see what you get. We get: Vf = 2.718 Vr = 7.123 (wow really big this won't fit) Qbp .78 (normally we would worry about the system Q when modeling by hand. It's the second thing you look at after S factor. Qbp is an indicator of sensitivity and normally you want a sensitivity of zero but the calculator calculates sensitivity automatically so Qbp isn't a biggie to worry about. BUT just like in a sealed box normally a total Q of around .7 is what most people prefer) fb = 31.31 hz passband = 20-49 hz (high f3 is a bit low, id like to at least play up into the 60's) gain = 3.39 (this is pretty good. you don't want to go much higher than 3 db. The higher the sensitivity the less power the sub will need and you might run into mechanical failure if you are not careful) 7. This box will definantly not fit. Since we know "s" factor affects box size let's choose a factor of .6 We recalculate and get the following Vf = 1.997 Vr = 4.451 Qbp .85 fb = 34.21 hz passband = 20-58.51 hz (high f3 is still a bit low) gain = .76 (still in good range ) so, now box is a good bit smaller and will fit in my car BUT I want a higher fH. 8. lets choose a s factor of .5 since we now know "S" factor effects volume and we get: Vf = 1.387 Vr = 2.963 (awsome box is even smaller) Qbp .94 fb = 37.74 hz passband = 20-71.21 hz (high f3 is now where I want it) gain = negative 2.61 (wow this box will be down almost 3 db in its passband ) Since we know "s" factor affects box volume and passband and those are good lets change the low rolloff and see if it'll fix the sensitivity. 9. lets set it to 25hz. I think that'll be low enough and we get: Vf = 1.387 (see we used the same s factor and it remained the same) Vr = 1.814 Qbp .1.08 fb = 43.65 hz passband = 25-76.21 hz (high f3 is a bit high but I'll use the filter on the amp to bring this down a bit. gain = 3.21 This looks like it'll be the best compromise. Small enough box to fit in my car, passband is pretty good for the sub stage, and the gain is not too high that i'm gonna have to worry about damaging my sub.

I like these two the best so far

^WOW

And it's rosebudd with 2 d's For a double dose of that fish pimpin. Lol

I've got a lot of money in my shopping cart with them.... damn it man. Why did you have to show me these? Those DT-6's in Rosebud Shad..... Really impressive lures for sure.

Thanks asshole, there goes a nice piece of my paycheck. My wife's gonna kill me.Rattle on it and hand painted. So awesome. Www.luremeincrankbaits.com Cool stuff.

I'm gonna get 1-2 fish per hook every cast I'm sure. From MN too. Cool guy names mike. Www.luremeincrankbaits.com

Sean, hand painted firsh murderer. Woot!

What voltage do you use with the .6 ohm coil? My girls are moving their vape store in the unit next to my shop this weekend. I can see spending a lot of time(and money) over there!

I will probably end up taking some online class this year if I stay at my job. Even if I get the area manager position I will still be underutilized, and I am not getting interviews. I feel that it's mostly because of my lack of a degree. Probably some kind of engineering as it's the only thing I can think of that would exercise my brain. I did stumble onto a lead however. One of the girls in the company has a father who is loaded and runs a few companies. Apparently he always wants sales people, as long as they are willing to travel. His company is some importing company. It's probably nothing, but I'm sure as hell going to see if I can leverage something.

I guess I need to call Vance and order a few hundred cookbooks and start giving them out for free with orders.

Same chick

Squats, lots of squats!

see dog thats why my subs are louder.. minz has 4 ohms and yourz only haz 1

well ford wanted WAAAYY Too much .. so i got this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716067815?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 not sure what kind of tentioners they are.. maybe you could let me know

what set should i get? i know the 279 comes with a pump and gears... but its cheaper for just the chain and guides i would hate to install a shitty pump that will only fail. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716072933?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/390624904980?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

shit man .. thats the thing about the skinnernet is conflicting info ... i guess i need to change the oil.. cause it had 0/30 in it.. then i added like a quart of lucas motor restore shit.. made my oil thick because i had chatter...

well i planed to have them both pulled and rebuilt, ... a reman is 340 each side, .. i can have them re worked for about 220 for the set, so as of now i plan to have them reworked, .. and while im in there replacing the timing chain... im not going to be doing the work, im holding the dealer responcibale .. as i explained to him .. he told me he would call me once all the repairs were done and it was good to go.. he called me.. i trusted that the truck was fixed. i paid and signed based on that trust, and before i left the lot. i had him check it again because it was not correct... he offered me out of the deal. ,minus the cost of parts that i had him put on it.. or give him the chance to make it right... i want him to repair it. i think he only wants to rebuild the one side.. i want both heads done..... vato zone wanted 420 for a timing set.. WTF.. so im shopping for a cheaper one now.

ok.... the compression test confimed the bad news ... #6 had 182 LBs .. # had 85 lbs took the cylender to bottom... put compressed air in the cylender .. and he came out of the tail pipe... i need a head job.... hes going to do it.. but i have a question for you ryan .... are these head bolts studs or bolts? if they are studs then the motor has to come out.

OMG, no! Do not ever use Champion, especially in a mod motor. Motorcraft, Bosch, or NGK. i prefer motorcraft or NGK .. but shitty more popular plug was used IMO

it had a miss on 7 before the tune up... replaced the plugs and the coil, and # is still missing, ... brand new plug gapped correctly brand new coil. i dont care for the brand of plug but.. still the fact remains ... before and after still 7 is missing

Just taking a guess, but wouldn't that change the weight of the entire way the thing moves? It looks worse than putting those weights around rims of tires on a car in this case since it's attached directly to the center, but I understand looks can be deceiving which is why I ask.