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God, that sucks!

Please understand that there is no relevance in comparing volume to vent area. Ever. I have no idea where this came from, but please stop posting this type of thing.

Mmmmm maybe

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Yes the xcon comes in a 10

I meant that I have never heard a Dayton driver in person. I have heard of the company. I do a lot of research before purchasing anything, and I did come across the Dayton drivers, both the Ultimax and the HO. I'd rather base my purchase off of experience from others than specs alone. The specs may sound great, but doesn't mean it will sound great. there are plenty of shitty subs with good reviews.. speakers just do as they're told. and modeling is about as close to an objective comparison you'll ever get. Based on modeling, the Xcon would get my vote, as it seems to have a wider response and extends a little lower than the others I have modeled, unless I model the Dayton with the optimal box size. The Dayton with a .707 Qtc is around 6.5 cubes for a box. IB would be great with this, but I don't have this option.

Jesus Christ, you guys kill me. My only point was it isn't the dual connector that made the difference, it was that 2x copper in the DC power cable run. Run a single 4/0 into a reducer and you will have even less loss and more power. Goddamn, seriously... Nobody was being cynical about your test...

100 watts isn't significant.

A short wire can conduct more than one of the same thickness, but longer. science is fun http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/resis.html#c2

and with a longer knife I could slice flesh easier.

I just Orderd 2 more SSA EVILS 18" This sale Is the Best

We did try to help you solve the problem. They won't work ported.....Q is too high, response will be peaky and transient response will be terrible. It "works" in a car for kids who don't care about how something sounds and the cabin gain fills in some of the low end which they will lack in a home environment. Sealed enclosure would need to be huge and you'd still have a high Q alignment with an early and steep roll off on the low end. Best option is to run them IB if you are stuck with those drivers. Sealed you could probably get by with 5cuft per driver if you don't mind the loss in transient response and don't really need response below 40hz. But I'm with Sean....for what you would end up with, I wouldn't want to waste the space and wood just to end up with something that was still substandard. Why can't you sell them and use the money for a driver or drivers that would actually fit your needs ?

I don't understand what you want us to say... We are trying to explain why the drivers you choose aren't really suited for home audio. If you don't want to hear what we have to say then just build the box in your pictures.

^^^^sweet!! Make sure to post pics

One thing WinISD is not going to account for is real world factors such as power compression. Keep that in mind when comparing drivers in modeling software. Small differences in the program might be large differences in real life, and vice versa.

Clean the throttle body. It is an electric TB, so be careful. Get a toothbrush and some carb cleaner. Remove the air inlet snorkel from the TB. Turn the key on with the engine off. Have someone step on the accelerator pedal and shoot the carb cleaner down the throttle body. Scrub the inside of the bore and as much of the plate as you can with the toothbrush. DO NOT STICK YOUR FINGERS IN IT!!! After a short period of time the throttle plates will close as a failsafe. It will rip your fingers off. Keep cleaning until it looks decent. It is a common issue with electronic throttles. It may run like shit for a while, but give it 10 or 15 minutes, and it will be fine.

Huge sealed box required and I wouldn't spend the money on the wood to house those things. If you have to use them as it has already been said do it IB. Wasting money on the drivers is bad, but even worse to waste it on the enclosure too as nothing worth a shit for Home Audio will work in the same box.

Keep in mind how something performs in a vehicle and how it performs in a house is COMPLETELY different. They also have completely different enclosure requirements.

#1 don't waste your money on CCA power cable, seriously. It is 100% a marketing gimmick... #2 I think you are still missing what we are trying to explain to you about the sub-stage. The way the overall output is going to sound is almost completely determined by the chosen alignment, not the cone size or driver type. If you design for the desired response you are looking for (you sound like you are looking for a bump in the upper range like a sealed box with a higher Q) you will get the results you are looking for. I have not personally used the components you are talking about, but when you have a sub-stage with something like a 15", it is hard to expect a single set of components to keep up in the mid bass regions at all but normal listening levels.

Your faith in the intelligence of the species is amusing.

I guess i must be a genius then... I run 500w per 8" driver of the pro audio series and they are only rated for 200wrms. IF you do not know how to handle the power you have, then failure will occur.

Subbass is inherently slow and muddy. There's no such thing as "fast" sub bass. If you want that quick punch and snap, you are focusing on the wrong thing. What you are looking for is called midbass. Focus on your midbass drivers.

welcome to the forum. hate to say it but there's so much misunderstanding here. where to start... 1. no such thing as SQL. i swear there's a post explaining these definitions somewhere. SQ = reproduction of sound accurate to the source material. SPL = raw output. what you probably mean is that you're looking for a decent sounding subwoofer that can get loud. which isn't particularly hard to find. building the correct enclosure is where most people fuck it up. All the jazz about ground pounding comes down to enclosure design. 2. punchiness and speaker size is an old car audio myth that never dies. 3. if you haven't guessed by now, running those two subs together would not accomplish your goal.

There is nothing inherently wrong with running two different subs. You may get some phase difference issues unless they share common airspace (which is completely OK, even with completely different drivers). BUT, there is also no real reason to do this. The difference you are accustomed to hearing is due to the different way the drivers have been used. The sound of sealed you are wanting is due to a high Q box, like over 1, this is what gives you that perceived "punch" and "tightness". The reason the vented have sound lacking there is due again to their design and boosted low end caused by cabin gain which gives a perceived lack of upper bass. Again, this is all a perception due to anomalies of each alignment. My suggested would be, and this is only my suggestion, to chose a pair of the 10" or 12" drivers you were looking at (just chose based on space available). If you decide sealed, chose a Q around .7-.8, if you decide vented, don't tune anywhere below 30Hz and try and model for a low ripple alignment. You will need a SSF. A tad of Eq, not too much, can also help get where you want to be, also... If a bunch of this is over your head, get some help...

From this To this

um? How'd you know

lookin good brother

oh fatmat the best deadener out there!!!

I guess a couple people dont know math :

Bottom line, the amp put out more power !