Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/27/2014 in Posts

  1. They way you started this thread and are going about it, is what is causing all this backlash. Nobody cares if your the loudest trunk with xcons, even if you are. Try being the loudest trunk car then people will probably care. Search youtube as there are people who are on their running xcons, who probably dont come on this forum. There is another dude who just installed 2 Xcons in the trunk but hasnt even gotten them metered yet, you can see his build log on here.
  2. First let me start by saying my enclosure was not built for doing big numbers in mind, its a music box that plays damn near like a HT setup. This is strictly for fun and because the Ethos had to come out because I'm selling it to offset cost of the bigger build. My friend let me use his SP4 that is less than a year old until I pull it all out. The enclosure 3.65cu net tuned at 29hz with 44sqin of port. The amp and power Crescendo BC2000, 225amp alt and two group 34 batteries. Ethos 15 Dual 2ohm (wired at 1ohm) only pulling a max 60 amps of current according to the fluke clamp. SP4 fully loaded Dual 1ohm (wired at .5 ohm) pulling a max 83 amps of current I installed my Ethos 15 last weekend. The sub isnt even broke in all the way yet so I believe it will still get alittle louder over time. The biggest thing I notice is how clean it plays and how much it loves the lows. Yes my box is tuned low so that is expected but the sub does a great job of digging deep. The higher notes do equally well and Im sure in a higher tuned setup it would be different. With all music played it does just fine, rock, rap, country, dubstep, etc) Overall I love the way the Ethos sounds and performs and handles the 2k without even trying. The SP4 is probably my favorite sub I have ever used, they play so clean, loud and low and I was doing big numbers out of a low tuned wall with 18's before so I am kinda partial. (although that outlook may change over time ) Big thanks to Teric (Nadicle) for bringing over the meter and hanging out while we tested and did the direct swap. First I had the Ethos in, we rode up the road and started playing. Sounded good and was doing 2db louder than the FI Q that was previously in the same box and in my other F250 (basically same setup) Then we came back switched in the SP4 knowing we had to wire it lower at .5. I honestly was expecting to see a big increase and didnt think it would be close because of the extra power going to the SP4. Well here are the results. Take them as you wish but I think you will all see the potential of the Ethos. Mic on windshield drivers side, pass side windows down. Found the peak to be 35hz, barely its so flat. Ethos at 35hz.......................... 142.19db (at 1 ohm) SP4 at 35hz..............................142.83db (at .5 ohm) Now here is a shocker, song is "Hood Nigga" by KangarouX, better have big boy pants on to play this one full tilt. Ethos at 22hz............................138.2db SP4 at 22hz...............................136.8db In the kick the SP4 did have a 1db increase over the Ethos, but all things considered..................... Ethos at 35hz in kick Outlaw style.............. 142.3 SP4 at 34hz.................................................143.8 I realize the are complete different subs and both could be said to not be in the best enclosure for either sub. But just for a side by side drop in comparison the Ethos surprised both of us. This goes to show it doesnt take a 600 dollar sub to get the job done.
  3. The one sub failure would be the only reason to not do a shared chamber. I wouldn't base and box I was building on any prefab box ever, theres a reason they all suck. It looks like you are on the right path, threaded rod is great for bracing. You can also use steel tubing with a base plate and a cross connector for bracing if you dont want the ends of the rod and bolts sticking out of the box. Id also recommend a double baffle, cant tell if you had one on that sketch. Also make sure to seal it off so that all the pressure is focused into the cab.
  4. it wasn't an install, it was an over pressurized LPG tank.
  5. Aside from having nothing to do with a stereo system it's pretty cool. Spare tire blew.
  6. Man- honestly everyone is going to suggest something different. Spend alot of time in the build log section and you'll get an idea of what people like, and don't like. As for people suggesting equipment- what are your goals, how much space do you have. You mention rockford T2 and a JL 1000/1. Is it just the sub stage you wish to upgrade? or is this equipment you already have and plan to use? There is a huge wealth of knowledge here- but you have to ask the right questions to help them help you.
  7. 1 point
    The SMD dyno is a joke if using the burst. And I compare because the life span on the Korean board is quite longer. Better parts Ect. How an amp performs vs. The ratings are irrelevant. A 2500w amp that makes 3k, isn't a 2500w amp. It's a 3k watt amp rated at 2500w. The RD D5 is rated at 2kw. But clamps out in excess of 5k. Is it a revolutionary 2kw amp? Not it's a 5kw amp that's marketed to the competitor to fit in a certain power class. No company wants their amps to I'll perform. So the they under rate them so they look better. Go look at the amps I just got installed in my build log. Those are rated at 3k. Here's the SMD results. Smoke and mirrors.
  8. My guess would be a distribution block. Probably 2 runs of 1/0 from rear battery to a distribution block in. Then 2 runs of 4 gauge on the distribution block out, one going to the starter and the other going to fuse block. One run of 1/0 to alternator from distribution block out. Hope that makes sense, just how i probably would do it. But wait for more experienced users to chime in.
  9. 1 point
    changed the video to youtube http://youtu.be/v824oivEgp8
  10. 1 point
    True. NoBSJon, should be his user name. I do like reading his posts.
  11. 1 point
    Jon, if you're not a rep for dss, you should be. Lol. You make these ethos sound very interesting.
  12. 1 point
    30 to 39 seems to be my sweetest spot with as much power as im throwing at these things.... if i dial back the power the subs will go lowwwwwww 25 hz or so with no problem.. its pretty fun .. everything moves slowly
  13. 0 points
    I've seen similarities in Skar and CT so I've stayed far away. From what I can tell they both are young guys who know basically nothing about car audio and just throw products together from China and Korea. That being said audiotechnix/ctsounds wire and deadener is very affordable and for the price it don't think you can get much better. This is purely my opinion though and from the information I've gathered.
  14. The DSS Ethos, along the Mag, seem to LOVE small enclosures. Take a look at Big Jon Lincoln, small side for a conventional dual 15, except he net's a very positive return, I too noticed the same with the mag. "Cramming" may not apply so much when the driver's themselves are design for so.
  15. -1 points
    Any pics of these DOA's? What is this person wiring to? Perhaps anything they put in their ride will go up in smoke if they have such bad luck. Which model did this person keep having such bad luck with? I don't doubt this person having issues, but I'd like some type of validity for myself since I have 1 Ct4k and another that'll be here tomorrow. Have a bad run in with Coleman or something? lol I personally was able to put up my ct4k against a crescendo 5500 head to head in my truck and the ct4k edged over the nendo by a tiny margin. My tests were at 1ohm final load with a mechman elite on 3 batts with the ct4k scoring a 147.2 and the nendo scoring a 146.6. These tests were performed 1 after the other with the nendo going first and a xs power 1005 topping off the batts before each burp. Scoring was done on a average of 5 burps on 4 18" Obsidian's with charging done between each burp. Test was done inside a garage so temperature wouldn't be affecting and also checked the temperature of the subs between each burp and never tested if the coils were over 140F. Average coil temperature was right at 115-124 degrees each burp. This small temperate variation had no affect on overall output. So at least the 4k passed my test for what I needed it for. The disclaimer i'd leave is this is MY setup and obviously these will change with anyone elses. So FFS don't go thinking these could be replicated in any fashion for your ride. The nendo might be better or the same, who the hell cares? I honestly just like the all black case design.
  16. Theoretically numbers here for sealed on the dash. If you have lets say, an 04 imapala, two 12" xcons and two 3k amp with sufficient power tuned to about 32hz. I could see a high 40s on music. Maybe 47ish. Totally theoretically though.
  17. -1 points
    I will echo what I said before. My CT4k is good and does well over rated power. More so than the nendo 5500 it replaced. Now I have 2 and both work great. I've yet to come across a single proof post of someone actually blowing/smoking the amps that hooked one up correctly. Everything I've seen is hearsay and people that remember something about something. Truth is Coleman never said that his board shared anything with any of the RD amps. Someone else put that out there that happened to see it and put that assumption together on Caco and Facebook. While the dude could possibly be a douchebag or a loser, that remains irrelevant. Truth is the amps he's put out have their place and are selling like crazy and do well. I'll likely trade mine out eventually, but for now I'll continue to run my shit amps I guess.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.