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DSS HOMEPAGE

These shirts will look amazing with a beer in my hand during slamology! Wait, I know what you're thinking. Made no sense, right? BS, it makes perfect sense cause IAK dammit!

Little background on my current setup, Two ZCON 12's wired to 1 ohm, 1 Mechman 320 amp alt with run of 4/0 positive and negative the rear, one Odyssey PC1800ft (a second sitting in my shed), and one Diehard Platinum 65. The back story/Good I ordered my HD8k from DJSTAGE Gear I paid about 8xx for it and it shipped from Florida and took a dismal week plus out here to California. When I got my package, it was well packaged; although minimally. My first thoughts, extremely light and overall better build quality than the TS4 channel. The pots seemingly had much less play than the 4 channel which was great news. Also the Power, Clipping, and Protection is a nice touch, while I am reluctant to touch the clipping indicator; the protection light is nice. Whenever it is near low voltage (~12v) it will begin flashing and then turn solid right before it is going to protect, Nice touch. Also the amp stays very cool even at ambient temperatures around 80-90s in a black car. I ended up getting the triple 1/0 inputs from ToolMaker for about 30 bucks shipped, shipping was quick straight from North Carolina. The sound. The sound is no different than any other class D Korean amplifier. Unlike other Brazilian amplifiers it does have better cone control at low volume while sitting idle, and does not have the same dampening factor issues such as the Soundigital SD16k. Now the bad, I will start from my biggest complaints to the smallest. The output terminals for the speaker terminals are NOT covered on top, I went to move the amp slightly when I was making sure it was working and adjusting the gains, I ended up accidentally touching the terminals.. OUCH, luckily it was on low volume so I didn't hurt myself too bad. Next are the INCREDIBLY loud fans, in an SUV or somewhere behind a wall might not matter, but in the mustang where it is about 4 feet away from you it sounds like a jet engine. The fans do not change speed based on temperature, they are either full on or off. The SSF goes from 5hz to 50hz, for me as I rarely run a SSF due to my experience using Korean amplifiers which run from 20-50hz. I got an unwelcome surprised when a song had a full reverse sweep that dropped pretty low and bottomed out on full power. Granted it was mostly my fault for not noticing that it started at 5hz, but it seems a bit unrealistic that someone would honestly need to go that low. All in all, for the price to power ratio it is a definite good deal which is a plus. The amp quality is on par for the price, however despite my annoyances I would probably recommenced this amplifier to a friend and that's fairly high praise coming from me. On to the pics

Currently running my 12" ICON in a 1.35 cu ft sealed enclosure. The car is a hatchback. While the sub itself sounds clean and puts out decent volume, I'm often wishing it hit the lower notes a bit better and was louder. Is anyone able to help me design a ported enclosure for this sub? I'm trying to keep the footprint of the enclosure as small as possible, but I understand it'll take more space than the sealed setup currently. This is the current setup: Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr Regarding the height, i can't really go much taller since this still allows me to use my hatch cover to keep everything out of eye sight. Its at 13.5" tall. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm going on Ameritrade and buy 1,000 shares of plastidip. I'm gonna make a killin in dividends by the time a color is picked.

I would run the test again at multiple RPMs and record the output, then you'll have a rough power curve. Then you have three options (since you can't change the pulley size): 1) depending on the power curve you could raise the engine idle rpm enough to where it makes decent power (provided it's not idling excessively high) 2) add another battery so you have some extra reserve at idle, but it'll also be an additional current draw overall so it may not be optimal. Figure the stock electrical likely requires the majority of that 60A at idle if not more + the current draw from the amps (attempting to pull 2kw) is likely greater than what two batteries are going to provide. 3) get another alt that makes power at idle.

Alternators need to reach a certain rpm before they turn on and produce any current. Some high output alternator designs make lots of current at high rpm but at the expense of current at low rpm. I'm presuming since his car is new it idles pretty low--low enough that it either doesn't trip the alternator turn on speed (so the alt is off) or the alt just makes less power at idle than the OEM alt. To overcome the former people often swap out alternator pulley size so the alt rpm increases enough at idle to meet the required turn on speed, but then you have to worry about spinning the alternator too much at higher engine rpm. IIRC there's a few people on this forum that had Mechman alts and ran into this exact issue.

Last week if you don't mind not having parameters. We can leave that stuff to Crescendo. lol

It will sound MUCH different when its sealed off from the rear.

Giggity!!

As our customer base grows year after year, we can't expect all customers to be rational. We can only do our best to make as many of our customers happy as we can.

I'm contiplating throwing 2 12's in my DD civic and driving up.

Met chop in november, just got hooked up with IAK then. Looking forward to this

I may make a visit!

Definitely. Make them work first. Anything else leads to failure. Not sure why you think you can engineer a skyscraper when you haven't made a one story building work yet.