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I have received lots of emails asking how to join Team DSS so I am posting the stipulations to join below. DSS only wants dedicated team member that are highly involved in the industry. The below rules will insure this. 1) TEAM DSS IS BY INVITATION ONLY. (purchasing DSS product alone does NOT make you eligible for the team.) 2) INTERESTED COMPETITORS MUST HAVE ATTENDED AND RAN AT THE PREVIOUSLY YEARS FINALS. 3) THE MOST IMPORTANT STIPULATION. INTERESTED COMPETITORS MUST BE REFEREED BY CURRENT TEAM MEMBERS. MEANING IF A COMPETITOR IS INTERESTED A CURRENT TEAM MEMBER MUST CONTACT DDS AND PERSONALLY REFER THE COMPETITOR. 4) COMPETITORS THAT ARE ELIGIBLE TO JOIN THE TEAM MUST COMPLETE A NON-DISCLOSURE AGREEMENT. NOTE THAT THE NDA IS A BINDING CONTRACT THAT PROTECTS BOTH THE COMPETITOR AND DSS COMPANY INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY, INFORMATION, TRADE SECRETS, AND OR PRICING. COMPETITORS THAT DO NOT MAINTAIN THE CONFIDENTIALITY OF THE CONTRACT WILL BE SUBJECT TO PENALTIES OF FEDERAL LAW. ANY AND ALL PM'S, EMAILS, AND OR PHONE CALLS REGARDING JOINING THE TEAM FROM NON-TEAM MEMBERS WILL BE IGNORED.

Nice! No suckas allowed.

Little background on my current setup, Two ZCON 12's wired to 1 ohm, 1 Mechman 320 amp alt with run of 4/0 positive and negative the rear, one Odyssey PC1800ft (a second sitting in my shed), and one Diehard Platinum 65. The back story/Good I ordered my HD8k from DJSTAGE Gear I paid about 8xx for it and it shipped from Florida and took a dismal week plus out here to California. When I got my package, it was well packaged; although minimally. My first thoughts, extremely light and overall better build quality than the TS4 channel. The pots seemingly had much less play than the 4 channel which was great news. Also the Power, Clipping, and Protection is a nice touch, while I am reluctant to touch the clipping indicator; the protection light is nice. Whenever it is near low voltage (~12v) it will begin flashing and then turn solid right before it is going to protect, Nice touch. Also the amp stays very cool even at ambient temperatures around 80-90s in a black car. I ended up getting the triple 1/0 inputs from ToolMaker for about 30 bucks shipped, shipping was quick straight from North Carolina. The sound. The sound is no different than any other class D Korean amplifier. Unlike other Brazilian amplifiers it does have better cone control at low volume while sitting idle, and does not have the same dampening factor issues such as the Soundigital SD16k. Now the bad, I will start from my biggest complaints to the smallest. The output terminals for the speaker terminals are NOT covered on top, I went to move the amp slightly when I was making sure it was working and adjusting the gains, I ended up accidentally touching the terminals.. OUCH, luckily it was on low volume so I didn't hurt myself too bad. Next are the INCREDIBLY loud fans, in an SUV or somewhere behind a wall might not matter, but in the mustang where it is about 4 feet away from you it sounds like a jet engine. The fans do not change speed based on temperature, they are either full on or off. The SSF goes from 5hz to 50hz, for me as I rarely run a SSF due to my experience using Korean amplifiers which run from 20-50hz. I got an unwelcome surprised when a song had a full reverse sweep that dropped pretty low and bottomed out on full power. Granted it was mostly my fault for not noticing that it started at 5hz, but it seems a bit unrealistic that someone would honestly need to go that low. All in all, for the price to power ratio it is a definite good deal which is a plus. The amp quality is on par for the price, however despite my annoyances I would probably recommenced this amplifier to a friend and that's fairly high praise coming from me. On to the pics

Car is a '94 Buick Roadmaster. Purchased it about 2 years ago. Spent the 1st summer deadening the car, and last summer I just didn't have much time to get things done. Goal is to have a stereo finally installed in it this year! Have a little road trip coming up on June 22nd, and I would really like to at least have it playing music before then. Between work, the gym and my kids' evening activities I don't have much free time so that is quite a challenge. Not starting from scratch here. But hoping a little log will keep me on track and responsible for getting shit done. To get things up to speed...the car is deadened front to rear with SDS sound deadening. I believe 110 CLD tiles, 135sqft MLV/CCF and a roll of butyl rope. Let me also preface this by stating up front that fabrication ain't my thang. I can get it in there and make it work, but it ain't going to be pretty. So if you are looking for fabrication tips, this isn't going to be that type of log. I'm pretty proud of myself for not having any exposed MDF on this build so far as that's been pretty much standard in all of my previous systems. Right now equipment will consist of: Rockford ("Denford") RFX-8250Ti Headunit CSS LD25X Tweeters CSS VWR126X Midrange CSS Trio8 Midbass Adire Brahma 15" Subwoofer (for now, I think) JBL MS-8 Processor 3x Rockford P1000X4D Amps (speakers) Rockford P1000X1D Sub Amp Here is the car as it was the day I brought her home. So it's an old photo, but it still looks about the same... Amp rack, which as long as i didn't fuck anything up and it all works correctly should be done. Going back to that fabrication issue, if you look closely at the wires you can see a few of my mistakes. For starters I drilled the hole for the ground at the D-block too close to the block, I didn't account for the connector and left too tight of a bend for the wire to make. I also purchased new RCA's, which are a little thicker than those I had planned to use when I first laid out the rack last year. So in addition to having to take a Dremel and enlarge all of the RCA holes, the bends for the wire were a bit too tight in a few places for the RCA's as well...Oops !! Kinda hard to see in this pic, but I had also replaced the torsion bars in the trunk for struts. Can't have those pesky torsion bars in the way If I ever get a sub installed, you'll see why they had to go. With the trunk taken care of (except for the sub, but that'll come last) now moving on to the midbass in the doors. The Trio8's were designed for home audio, they are prefer an enclosure. Additionally, they are capable of moving some serious air. So in order to try to bring their response more in line with my goals, and to reduce door vibrations/resonances I'll be 'glassing ~.5cuft sealed enclosures for the door which should put the drivers in an alignment of right around .7 Qtc. They however are not shallow mount, so first I needed to make cut some metal to make room for the motors The ultimate plan here is to make a little "box" that recesses into the door that will fit basically the motor, the rest of the enclosure to be where the map pocket would be. No pics of the rest of it yet, but here's the hole I cut...don't worry about that little guy in the bottom left corner, he's been taken care of. I also do have the molds for the kicks and rings for the midrange and tweeter made, but I want to finish the doors before I move on to completing the kicks. Here's where they stand at the moment, the rings aren't attached to the mold so this is most definitely not their actual aiming. But just to give you can idea of the general setup And that's where it stands right now. Hopefully mid week I'll be able to get crackin' at it again. In the mean time if there are any questions on equipment selection, system plan and layout, etc fire away.

I have a brand new Icon 10 I'm selling. Never mounted or had power ran too it, only taken out of box for pics. I bought it from Sean (W140) for a friend who just never ended up using it. My friend wants to sell it since he doesn't want it anymore. He found a deal on 2 SA 12s. Price is 280 shipped anywhere in the 48. $60 off original price and it's brand new. Will be shipped in original box as well.

Started on this box for a local customer this afternoon. Subs being used are 2 AB XFL 15's being powered by a Kicker 2500.1. All this going in a 90's model single cab Chevy. Box specs: Rear chamber: 6.0 cubes net (2) 3.5" octaports tuned to 26hz Front chamber: 6.0 cubes net 16" octaport tuned to 58hz Pictures as they are taken...

I got the spindles extracted yesterday!! They are the only part going back in the front end. A few carnage shots...

I really like the defined rules.

http://www.moviebodycounts.com/ AAAAAAAAAAHNAAAAAALD

Eat healthy, non-processed foods. Don't smoke and try to stay away from too much alcohol. If you can do that, you are going to be 100% better off in the long run. I used to spend an ungodly amount on suppliments for years. Decades. As I get older I realize that clean living eating healthy foods is really best. Obviously you must work out (hard) regularly, but your diet plays such a big role in everything... I am almost 40. I work out 5 days a week, I run a lot. I work 60+ hrs a week. I don't really get sick, ever. I don't get injured too often, I really have to push to get injured. I eat lots of red meat I kill myself (Elk, Bear and Deer) I eat stuff I grow in our garden and try not to eat much junk food. I haven't taken any meds other than a pain killer when I break a bone or am getting stitches... Seems to work for pretty good for me...

I'd like to see it do 60's on music.

Definitely good news. I'm looking forward to having DSS go all the way to world finals with me this year and do better than last years world final results!

My FIL decided to change the break fluid in the 38 with the silcon type. He was out driving it and after the breaks heated up and the fluid got warm the breaks quite releasing. Seems those old lines swelled shut and would not allow the fluid to return to the master cyclinder. So we spent some quality time getting the 38 ready for parades and shows.

You need to prioritize your goals like Impious stated, in audio terms akin to Hofman's Iron Law. Supplements don't play a large role in the big picture. Some may help you get motivated/pumped to work out which is good rather than not working out. Creatine might provide you with a little extra energy for that last rep here and there. Branched-chain amino acids are good for providing nutrients quickly for building muscle and if you consider protein a supplement then it's good if your diet is lacking, but even the listed (protein intake aside whether it be from food or powder) aren't going to dramatically increase muscle growth or fat loss like a magical pill. If I wanted to lose fat I would focus more on aerobic exercises than anaerobic (I'd still do strength training as maintenance but not primary) and I wouldn't be eating or taking anything beforehand. Afterwards I'd stick to a fat and protein meal, later in the day I'd eat some carbs with a low glycemic index. The reasoning behind my suggestion is that the metabolic pathway that uses fat as energy requires more oxygen than does the pathway that uses carbs. In essence at high heart rate / anaerobic you're mainly using carbs->glucose/glycogen for energy, as you reduce heart rate and lean more towards aerobic exercise then you can use more fat for energy rather than sole dependence upon carbs. Another reason why I suggested not eating before the workout and not eating carbs directly after is insulin levels. When you eat carbs and protein (to a lesser extent) it increases your insulin levels. Insulin levels and the rate of which fat can be used for energy are logarithmically proportional, so a small increase in insulin will substantially reduce the rate of "fat burning." I'm oversimplifying the metabolic processes of the body very largely for what it's worth, but I hope it provides some insight as to the how or why, and like politics everyone has an opinion on nutrition whether they're right or wrong--including me. Good luck.

Finished!

Almost done!

Gettin' there...

garbage parts

Looks great man, you have some fab skills. Those prime amps are excellent dollar per watt value and quality.