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We inspect every single driver and there are tolerances for what passed and what does not. This driver would not fail as a B-stock -- even then most people getting our B-Stock are amazed we failed those units.

Okay, we were finally able to get the vehicle that will be replacing the van as our daily driver. I found a nice 2010 Traverse AWD with everything the wife wanted in it and a little more with decent miles on it and I even got a decent deal on it. Now, the wife realized before we even got serious about shopping for one that we should probably tone down the size of the install in the new vehicle. While she was/is still wanting some good sounding speakers and some bump going to the the size and extent of the build in the van was more than we need for this one. One of the biggest reasons for that was simply because of the damage the Q's caused the van. Before I installed them it was QUIET, not one interior panel rattled or made noise, not hardly a hint of sheet metal rattling could be heard. At this point now not only is there a great deal of noise coming from the interior panels (particularly in the rear) but the Q's even managed to tear a spot welded seam in the floor of the van loose. We simply don't want to repeat that in the new one. For this build we're looking at something smaller, possibly along the lines of a pair of 10's if the space is right, single 12, etc. Something like the DCON, GCON or ICON come to mind, SSD's, possibly even IA or something else I've not got a chance to try yet as well. We'll be running 1,000 to 1,500 watts on the subs and no more than that at all. What goes in will depend completely upon the space available and which sub choice will work best with that space. I'm going to try to keep the rear of the vehicle as usable as possible so I'm probably going to be building an enclosure with the subs firing downward and the port to the side. The enclosure will likely consume all the space available on the width and depth behind the 3rd row seat and my limiting factor will be that we're trying to keep the enclosure height to about half the total height of the 3rd row seat. The wife wants another Kenwood HU so we'll likely be ordering a DDX491HD and a Maestro RR integration unit this weekend for the source and to keep all the factory wheel functions and such. I'm looking to use a PPI P900.4 for the highs and a similarly sized subwoofer amp to run the subs and those will be tucked away in the storage compartment under the floor in the rear with added ventilation if necessary. That brings me to my biggest frustration with this build, lol. Before we got serious about shopping for a vehicle the wife was COMPLETELY on board for me doing whatever was necessary to install the Bravox 603's. Fiberglassed custom door panels were in the plans for whatever that vehicle was going to be, uh, well, right up until we picked up the Travy. Now it's, "You aren't really going to cut it up and put holes in the doors are you?" and "There's already places for tweeters, you can just use those right?" then finally "You can just use the factory places for now, I want it to have a good sounding stereo but not know it until you hear it, as in can't see nothin'." So, there goes anything remotely close to what I was wanting to do. I thought if the Bravox's wouldn't work out I might do a dedicated full range/midbass setup, or maybe even the equivalent of the Arc Audio Black 6.2 speakers in the SB Acoustic's mid and tweeter that Arc is using, or something really and truly worth a damn to do. Nope. She gave me a pretty much open budget for speakers but I don't see the point in spending any kind of good money on a set of components that cannot be optimally installed. So I'm not completely sure where I'm going to go with the highs. I have found a hell of a deal (<$250)on a new set of Kicker QS65.2 components which I'm leaning toward but I have to verify if there's any possibility of getting that tweeter behind the A pillar. I've also looked at the MB Quart QC216 set which has a nice looking large format tweeter but since Maxxsonics has their nasty hands in MBQ now I'm kind of shying away from them as well. As soon as I can figure out what the hell to do (still need to verify some measurements) I'll pull the trigger on equipment and get it coming. Although the Travy is pretty quiet from the factory I'm still going to be ordering some SDS to treat the doors and all of the rear to start with. I'll work on the floor and roof after we've had it a little while. It has the sun roofs so I'm not in a real hurry to tear all that interior off the roof, nor am I in a hurry to figure out how to tear all the seats, center console, and carpeting out to treat those areas just yet. I also have to pull the door panels off to see what kind of baffles I'll need to construct for it. Luckily with the lower power I'm looking at running and the 170A factory alternator I shouldn't be looking at having to do anything too major on the electrical side of things. Probably just the BIG 3 in 1/0 with Knu Kolossus. So, that's the, um, kind of the plan, for what little plan there is. The more I can verify as far as fit in this thing the better the direction for what/where it will go is going to look. I hope to have all that figured out and to be ordering equipment and supplies this weekend. Here's a quick shot of the Travy. I just grabbed it to show to a co-worker. Any input is welcome, especially from anyone who's done some install work in one of these as the entire Lambda platform is completely new to me.

B stock to me would be uber obvious cosmetic things or ANYTHING that changes the performance. Can't say that either of those fit in that category.

Just my opinion but that looks pretty normal and expected to me.

you should probably contact them directly. personally I wouldn't be happy with a sloppy glue job.

And the rest of what I shot.

And more

Aargh, photobucket

Got about 80% done trimming and sealing it off. Should be done tomorrow and will post pics tomorrow

I added a little extra unicorn milk to the 18's so it should wang pretty damn good

Listening to the individual driver will give you an understanding of that particular drivers acoustical signature and limitations and that's about it. I will give my best guess from what you have described, your music type and without listening in person. You are looking for a driver with an acoustical signature in a whole different pall park. Something with more amplitude from 100-1k and less cone breakup above that. IF there has to be a sacrifice it would be lossing 80-100hz. Just a guess, but gives you an idea what info is needed. As at this point is obvious you just don't like that drivers acoustical sig and you are looking for an upgrade.

I've dealt with Tantric Sounds a couple of times when purchasing drop in recone kits and have had nothing but excellent CS and products. People do not realize what drivers the owner of Tantric Sounds has designed and engineered. All the hate over a little grammar etiquette is plain asinine. It's a forum for cripes sakes, get over the narcissistic ways that has plagued this forum for years now. As to the minion follwers, get informed before posting ignorant remarks just because an authoritive ass hat has replied. The Ti basket issue is not an issue when you look at it. So many brands have and continue to utilize the Ti basket. So many new cookie cutter brands are coming out with a new sub and they all utilize an open tool bakset. Welcome to the world of "Made in China". It's not about to change anytime soon.

yeah man SERIOUSLY! !!

Seriously?

From everyone ive personally spoke with sundown is really good about customer care and will most likely take care of it I hope.. I really dont want to buy two more just to try to have a flawless matching pair...

I cant really understand this as A stock though ... when I read the description of what they sell as B stock well this is what I have.

I ran old school rockford hx and hx power back in the day and replaced a few here and there and they always looked perfect. Maybe my standards are to high .

IDk maybe im wrong for feeling this way but I believe paying $200 for a 12 inch sub when get one two years later being its the same model I should have an identical twin! When I order two at the same time should be identical. I wouldn't say you were wrong per-say, but I have a feeling that sundown might tell you the same. hope not I got these subs for the look also . The look not is not A quality. .. if this is A stock I hate to see B stock lol... I spent a lot on a custom enclosure an would like my subs to not only sound but look flawless.

IDk maybe im wrong for feeling this way but I believe paying $200 for a 12 inch sub when get one two years later being its the same model I should have an identical twin! When I order two at the same time should be identical.

I did contact them late yesterday. Brandon emailed back I sent pictures and information im waiting on a reply. On here I was just asking how everyone else's look for curiosity. Im not bashing anyone I want to get that out there for sure I have nothing bad to say about sundown audio some of the best sounding subs and amps I've ran.