Leaderboard
-
garychurch84
SSA Regular7Points1,114Posts -
j-roadtatts
SSA Supporter L25Points9,752Posts -
Quentin Jarrell
SSA Regular5Points4,549Posts -
Julian
Super Moderators3Points7,743Posts
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/2014 in Posts
-
24 ETHOS LEFT FOR PRESALE
2 pointsOnly 24 Ethos left for presale. Once these are sold the next batch of Ethos will not be available until the beginning of February 2015.2 points
-
12" single ported Ethos enclosure design
Post your max dimensions and how you want the port and sub to face.2 points
-
Box size for a HdS210
2 points
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect If both are agms should be fine! Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct? Sounds good1 point
-
[Wanted] 18" Basket Only (Prefer DC)
im pretty sure DC uses a 6 spoke 18 inch frame, it will be the same as ANY 6 spoke 18 basket.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.you can use the rear battery as a distro blockrun to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreedSo if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?Edit...stupid phone autocorrect If both are agms should be fine!1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
I have ran several HO alts and have never fused between the alt and battery.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot. you can use the rear battery as a distro block run to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot. agreed1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot. you can use the rear battery as a distro block run to rear batter straight from front battery no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
fusing is a good thing!!! If something went wrong an your charging wire went to ground then you would be glad you fused it. dead shorts will draw all the amps possible causing all kinds of problems! melted wire,blow fuse(if fused)fried alt etc1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
fusing only protects against ampres,not voltage1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Fuseing is to protect the wire etc,however your alt could go bad bad and have a voltage spike...which could send who knows how much voltage through your electrical system,frying pcms,relays,headligjys etc.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Then your drawing more current than you fused for. With that being said I didnt fuse my alt either!1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list. http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33 As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp? typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Here is the Group 31 version battery just to show you an example of which line-up im referring to: http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-marine-battery-group-size-31m-price/p-02850131000P1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
You will want a sealed battery if mounted inside the vehicle. Lead batteries give off toxic AND flammable fumes.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Go look at batteries and see what will fit, Sears has Diehard Platinum batteries for good pricing. Check them out1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
I used this product in my car. Worked great to fill body voids to block road noise. Good for bracing too, IF in the right application.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
So is there any "rule of thumb" as to what can be used? Or just measure and go as big as possible? And as for the alt...I could get a larger one elsewhere for twice the price. In my research so far people seem to be able to get away with a 200 amp on that power without any issues (with big 3 and big battery or 2). 200 amp x 12 volt = 2400 watts. 200 amp x 14 volts = 2800 watts. Granted the alt doesn't make that at idle. The battery is for reserve to fill in at peak moments.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
While the car is apart put deadener on each rear quarter panel. They rattle and flex like a tin can.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
Iirc up front it's pretty space limited, so a cheaper group 31 like a used deka intimidator or similar would be a great suppliment for the rear for pretty cheap x but as jaycee said it depends on your listening habits.1 point
-
Need some electrical advice for my first big (to me) build
I would replace the battery under the hood with the biggest that could fit first along with the alternator, then monitor voltage to see if a battery in the rear is needed. Depending on your listening habits you may get by without buying two batteries. Is that the biggest alt you can find for your vehicle?1 point
-
How much for re-cone
0 points
-
24 ETHOS LEFT FOR PRESALE
-1 points
-
24 ETHOS LEFT FOR PRESALE
-1 pointsi said it from the start you could very well sell this sub for 4~450 but i think the DSS nation is spreading too fast for that !-1 points
-
How much for re-cone
-1 points
-
[Wanted] 18" Basket Only (Prefer DC)
-1 pointsProduct I'm looking for: 18" Basket Budget: Reasonable it's just a basket. (If you just want me to pay shipping that is very fair) Let's say $30 shipped. Condition: Not broken? Time Frame (if applicable): ASAP-1 points