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Over the last month I've been prepping my car to power the Ethos I have on order. So far I've replaced the front battery with an Optima Yellow Top Group 34/78, done the Big 3 in 1/0 ofc, installed a 220 amp HO alt and made a positive and negative run of 1/0 to the rear (positive fused within 18 inches of post with 250 amp anl fuses). For now the rear battery is not installed. I have the negative taped off and the positive run stops at the rear fuse holder. Over the weekend I decided to hook up the amp that I plan on using for the front stage to power my entire system I'm currently running. It's a Hifonics (I know some of you are cringing right now) X14 Brutus X1200.4. Power is supposedly 150x4@4, 300x4@2 and 600x2@4 ohms bridged. I contacted the company to make sure that it could be run in 3 channel mode, to which I was told yes... to use Channels 1 and 2 for the fronts and bridge the rears on 3 and 4. Hooked everything up, powered on and was pleasantly surprised at the power it was pushing to the subs (SSA DCON D4s wired to a 4 ohm final load). I did not set the gains with any type of meter, just the normal up 3/4 on the volume and increase to distortion then back off until there was none. Sounded beautiful for the first 30 to 45 minutes and then it quit and went into protect mode. The amp was VERY hot to the touch so I let it cool for a few and even backed the gains down some. Restarted the car after approximately 15 minutes and played for a while before going into protect again. Backed the gains off even more and so far (knock on wood) it hasn't cut off, but the longest I've been in the vehicle was this morning for an hour drive to work. And when I arrived it was pretty darned hot again. My first thought was bad ground, and it may still be.... but I'm not so sure. The amp is sitting under the passenger seat. Maybe the fact that it's laying down and is an A/B doesn't help. I used a point where the seat attaches to the body as my ground. Sanded the paint to bare metal, used a copper terminal ring and even dremeled the threads with a wire brush and used dielectric grease. I also replaced the 80 amp in line fuse with a 120 amp anl. The one thing I haven't done yet is replace the speaker wires. I currently have 14 gauge speaker wire on everything. My previous amp was only pushing 300 to the subs so could it be the wire being too small for the power being delivered causing this? Thanks in advance guys.

To bad it wasn't a Saab. You would have a saab story to tell.

Neither will work in your given space, think more like two fifteens

Hi everyone ! I own a brand new MAzda CX-5 2.2 l Diesel. It's my first SUV, I've never had so much room in the cargo area ! I'm still waiting on a dash kit and an adaptor for the head unit. I sold a lot of things from my ex car, the Toyota : rca's, power and ground (cca) wires, box, a Kinetic 1200, a DD 9515 ;-) and more....It gave me some serious cash to buy a few items. Here what I have so far : head unit : Pioneer X5600BT I need a double DIN unit to keep the screen for the parking radar (how do you call that ?) Amplifiers : Incriminator Audio 20.1 for the bass and a 3.4 for the mids & highs. (thanks SSA for the Black&Blue sale). Sub : SSA Zcon 15" Mids & highs : my old set of Focal 165 KP still with its original passive filters. Box : design from RAM is coming... Wires : Knu and Phonocar rca's, Knu 0 gauge power set, and what I already had. I'm not a photographer, so here are some pics

We are proud to announce that we have teamed up with Exo Contralto and he can now call the SSA forum home for his forum and video threads. Welcome to SSA! If you aren't familiar with Exo's video, follow this link: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnPUPyvBxLU7AckK16m9n1w

No the 14 guage wire wont cause problems.

Aaron.... Look at those BONC #'s...... 0_0

Todays project. Making tombstones out of flitch.

Also is the amp vented on the bottom? If so did you allow space between the amp and mounting surface for air flow?

Bad connection, voltage drop, and as Alton said wired incorrectly and the fact that class a/b runs hot.

It sounds to me like the subs may not be wired correctly. Double check the series/parallel wiring of your subs to verify for certain you have them wired for 4 ohms. Hook your voltmeter/DMM up to the power terminals on the amp and watch the voltage. If you have a bad connection/ground you'll see the voltage drop. I had a Hifonics ZXi6006 several years ago running the components in my van and it ran pretty hot all the time. Class A/B amps just aren't very efficient and a lot of the power they draw from the electrical system (a little better than 50% efficient in most cases) is simply lost as heat. That's just my .02

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. If you have a multimeter can you try hooking it up to the inputs of the amplifier and measure the voltage drain on heavy bass hits to make sure your voltage isn't the culprit here. I have my idea as to what it could be with it being an A/B amp. I had an old JVC that did the exact same in 3 channel mode. It simply just wasn't a good enough amp for that particular job of driving the sub the way I wanted and it made me keep putting the gain for the sub channel well in to clipping to get it loud enough for my liking.

*sigh* Last week I sold the backhoe and that was Cummins Turbo I'd LOVE a Ram with Cummins.... This thing does 10.26:

In mother Russia they name you.

In those dimensions you've only got about 13.25cuft total space to work with. I think once you subtract the sub displacements, bracing, and port displacement you're going to come up short on space. What are your goals for this sub stage? The more details you give the more help everyone can be.

Sign in the newbie thread. Welcome to the ssa forum. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/11-newbie-sign-in/

Oral sex can make your day..... But anal sex can make your hole weak.

there's a rotation gizmo that spins the pigs, as well

The sub looks small on the pics, but it's a 15" ! The box is big, but "only" 4 ft3 net, @ 33 Hz. It plays everything. first time I have so much bass in a car, and it's the first time I can feel the lows so hard ! I feel like the car reacts to each note in a different way : it's amazing. During a little demo, some people around were afraid, thinking about an earthquake !!!! We regularly have some small ones here in the Caribbeans :-( Thank you SSA for your great products, and for all the advices !

Here are some better pics :

It's the first time I use Facebook to insert a pic in a post here. It works great ! Thanks QJ. This Zcon is coming alive now. WONDERFUL ! People were so impressed friday night. With a few adjustements it sounds even better. It's loud as f..., and plays all the notes like a champion. I have room in the cargo area, but I can't imagine 2 of those in my car. Now I need to check the voltage at the amplifiers, to be sure everything is ok.

Test fitting on the box : We had to change the spray : red looks like pink or purple. I wanted real red ! And finally here it is : More pics to come...

Alton, We couldn't have said it better. Please use the Remote knob on your Q1-750. It's not an accessory. It is a piece of the amp. The SoundQubed remotes are Gain knobs and do offer the ability to watch for clipping. Check out this link for amp set up instructions: http://www.soundqubed.com/Amp-Setup-Instructions-_ep_69.html

Some more pictures. Everything is good and plays. The steering wheel coontrol works fine with the head unit and the Pioneer adaptor. But I don't have the right plugg for the FM antenna, and the one to receive the info from the parking radar. I can only hear the biiiip. I need a better picture of the battery and the big 3. We tried to make everything look stock

It was too dark to keep working :

Head unit unit in the place ! It was easy to do...with all the instructions coming from a Mazda document I found online I will use the Focal passive filters. I don't know wher are the covers. It's ugly but it will work. The sun is killing us : power for the bass amp : Not going for the most beuatiful instal, but I like it ! Testing everything: It works.

Little preview on the box : I don't think it will look exactly like this. 4 cubic feet @ 33 Hz.

15% tint. Rear windows were already dark, stock tint. in a hurry ...before the night, we just took out the stock plastic box to put that ring in. After 8 years, the Focal mid needed a little point of glue ;-) very bad picture, but you can guess the amplifiers mounted and the Chinese Group 31 battery I will use (it was relatively cheap, and available). 2 shops should receive XS batteries in a few weeks, but they will be 3 times more expensive, and I can't wait !

why in the hell can't we (USA) get a diesel version of this? Nice ride, I have always enjoyed your builds.

The stock head unit : and some old pics just for fun :

the Zcon : I have a picture of the mids and highs speakers, but it's too ugly. I can't post it ! I'll take a better one assp. a little rca mess : I like those wood rings for the mids : they are well done. thanks to Phonocar (the only brand I know making EVERYTHING for car audio) :