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That was all installation, would have been real close with a BTL in similar optimal conditions. That install obviously also sounded like crap... Power is not the way to output, nor is some driver. It is all install. No matter what Speakerboy does replacing a driver with one that is close to 1/3 the Sd is not going to end up in comparable output across the frequency range. If he wants a fart cannon, er one note wonder, to replace it then we could discuss but something musical no way.

all you need now is a lift and to do an epoxy resin floor coating!

Your posts give me the giggles buddy. I literally don't have an insult for you that I think you'd be able to make sense of Speakers are pretty simple, they do what they are told to do. That being said, I know I've blackened a few coils thinking I was still putting out clean power, but I'm a little hard on my equipment, I know this. I would say for sure get it reconed, and try it out on a different 2k, and see how it sounds. You most likely have, but have you tried different box orientations? Forward sounds cleanest in my truck, up is loudest, and back is the quietest, but the easiest to blend with the mids. If you have the space, try it out. The surround being gnarled is a bummer, I can't even imagine what happened, I can't say I've seen that in person.

I decided it was time to build a garage to work on Aaron's cars and build box's for SSA sub-woofers. At some point I will have an APM2 to meter cars. Without further to do here are the pictures of my progress,

I have about $16k in this building.

congrats on the new shop. will be nice to work in comfort.

It looks great Neal. Lots of space!

Compared to an 18" BTL those are baby woofers. Will be a HUGE step down. It is really hard to replace all that cone area, nearly 3x in fact. That and the BTL in general is a better choice for his application than the DD anyways.

How about we start over and focus on what you are trying to do and what parts we can help with.

Bad ass man

Might I add that Arthur Clinton will be my right hand mechanic.

oooh man!

Drains set.

Stone tamped and vapor barrier down.

I have 46 ton of 2B stone in the base of this building.

I've had no problem with any of the SSA or Fi subs I had. Me and my friends have ran a few of them, and we are more and more happy ! I try to not abuse my equipments, but I can't speak for my friends !!!

A little Sunday fun day. Church, then Traeger vs BGE brisket.

Haha yeah ok No need to admit your accolades and stop saying pro's and please stop getting in your feelings. Either take the answers and use them or move on, its that simple. But resorting to name calling just shows your maturity.

Might have to do a new build log for my building.

18" BTL will not be replaced by a 12"

Read what he is proposing again before getting butt hurt lol

He is using his COMPLETELY differently You just need to hear any car that stages right and sounds good and you'll be enlightened.

It isn't what I consider, but what it is. Rear fill would be with some logical band pass and filtering such that the rears don't destroy the front stage. As for the four corner question, no it is a terrible idea. If you had music that was specifically recorded in four channel you could make the argument it could make sense although it is much more logical to not use the rears at all. See the picture of the soundstage up earlier in this thread. I have an Escalade. It is HUGE compared to your car. The rears are not at all connected to the stereo. No rear passenger ever complains either. Adding the rears doesn't make it louder, just makes it sound worse. There are no compelling reasons to run rears playing the same source as the fronts. Complete waste of money. Add to that the market for 6x9's is teeny so all the choices are garbage. You really don't want rears. You will have the same problem if you add dash speakers to your components. Will just screw things up. If instead you ran a bandpassed midbass in the doors and a full range driver in the dash perhaps, but bouncing tweeter frequencies off the window is really hard to get to sound good so then you'd need a 3 way which is rather complicated. Just bridge your amp to the front components you have and when it is missing something ask how to improve it. Everything else you propose to do is a waste of cash.

How is the install? Normally when you think it sounds better with rears it means the front install is jacked. Interested in pictures of the baffle, deadening, mlv....sure we can help fix it so you can sell off those rears happily.

Do NOT run a 6.5 and a 3.5 in parallel on an amp. That would be idiotic.

Raw drivers chosen for their environment, aiming and frequency response with a processor to run the crossover and eq.

Hell no especially not from you, haha thanks for the laugh this morning. But yes if I were in your shoes with all these knowledgeable people giving me advice I would but again me and you are different people.

Perhaps you could see this from a different light. You were very decided on what exactly you wanted to do and asked for verification it was the right thing. When it wasn't agreed that your method was the right choice you took everything as an attack when we are just trying to show you that you are making decisions without understanding the best path for success. It has nothing at all to do with being a champ and everything with wanting to learn. If you don't want to learn, why bother asking a question?

Instead of reading and comprehending whats wrote you rather add words and speculate. If thats what you got from my post then I cant help you. If your letting words get to you or under your skin then I can't help you. No ego here, dont get your panties in a bunch.

That is irrelevant, we were discussing front stages.

Umm, no. Buying a single driver that works good in a location is not a "component set". A component set can indeed include raw drivers. Good example is the Alpine F1 status set. It consists of a Scan Speak Revelator mid and a Scan Speak D2904 tweeter. Retail on the mid is $200, retail on the tweeter about the same. Alpine then slapped together some shitty ass crossover to mate with them and sold them for $5,000 as a component set. A set includes the drivers and the crossover. I will never buy another compromised crap ass car audio crossover ever in my life. Last time I did was in the 80's. I see no reason in it. Of course, it is easier to not.

Gasket is pointless. Build a baffle, fix your install. You say you like having a rear stage as well, what I read is you don't like your front stage. Stop talking about the rears and liking them and instead fix the front so you don't. It is really easy and will be a monster revelation to you once done. The rears add nothing and make the front stage worse. No ifs ands or buts.

To start off I would like to say I have had a love hate relationship with my 12" zcon from day one and also noticed from day one that the surround had a soft spot in it but never questioned it cause it seemed to play just fine. It sounds fantastic on a handful of songs but lacks to play a variety of music very well which they claim this woofer to not be a "one note wonder". I know your enclosure has a lot to do with things so I thought maybe the zcon needed a better home so I moved it from 3 cubes @ 30hz to 2.5 cubes @ 32hz. The new box made a big difference but after having it in its new home for a while I still had a love hate relationship and found it lacking on a lot of music. I have recently pulled the system out of my car cause I just wasn't happy with it and decided I needed a change. Threw my amp up for sale and the box and woofer have just been sitting here in my room collecting dust the past few weeks. I then decided I was gonna keep my amp and closed the sale down on it literally today. I got tired of looking at my equipment collecting dust so I pulled the zcon from the box today to check everything out. Lets say I was not happy with what I found... Soft spot in surround is actually a crack on the underside of it and I found many other small cracks that you couldn't feel or notice from the top side. It looks as if some kind of glue was smeared on the underside of the surround which I assume once dried became stiff. Imagine what would happen if you smeared super glue on some cloth and tried flexing it, its probably not gonna work too well. The coil looks black all around, particularly like it had an internal short from the pictures I googled. I don't recall what it was looking like when I first bought it new but I know it should be shiny copper and not black. Both coils measure out at 2 ohms like they always have, I don't abuse my equipment and everything was setup right as far as i'm concerned. I'm not trying to bash SSA but I feel like this thing wasn't right from day one or my amp isn't putting out clean power and this thing got toasted before she even got broken in. I'm not gonna blame anyone or hold anyone responsible but I am gonna have my amp checked out for safe measures. Ill most likely send the zcon back to SSA for a recone but i'm unsure if ill run the zcon afterwards do to what I have seen and experienced. I have heard nothing but good about them and I feel like either I got a bunk woofer or my SAZ-2500D that I bought second hand that was suppose to be new which it sure as hell was flawless when I got it is putting out some dirty power. Maybe I got ripped on the amp but that still doesn't explain the surround being the way it is. Hopefully the amp will check out fine and I can find a new woofer or maybe give the zcon another try. This is not a bash thread, i'm just shearing my experience with everyone and looking to see what others have to say or think. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to be detailed about my situation and seek advice from the fellow bass heads.