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I'm not 100% sure about the crossovers in your exact set, but there is a very good chance the mid was playing 1000hz and 2500hz. 1000hz may actually play better out of the mid than the tweeter. It may be difficult to get to, but treat each component set as if it were two separate speakers. Listening to each one individually really does tell you a lot. I didn't understand this until I tried it myself. I spent hours researching tweeters one week as I was sure I needed new ones. Come to find out, after listening to each speaker individually, the sound I didn't like was actually a peak in the frequency response on my mids. A little eq and it was gone. We all have to start somewhere, sometimes diving in is the best way to learn.

Of course, it's definitely the easier, quicker and more secure way to do it but when you don't have that option...

whats a woofer tester? and i thought u said a cheap multimeter wont work? so how would i test one note at a time? test tones? around how much should i expect to pay for a multimeter that can do this? thanks! edit: just looked up woofer tester and these things look expensive? at least $100? and i would have to completely remove the speakers to test each individually? wow? im trying to get help. and m5 is really nice enough to spend time and answer my questions. please can you stop these petty comments. contribute something positive or go elsewhere

Advanced wont help. You could measure an impedance curve one note at a time...but something like a woofer tester would be way easier.

I used to have such a switching device years ago. I used non-shorting double pole-double throw switches, hooked the amp/input wires to the common terminals, the wires going to the speakers on one set of the switched terminals and a set of wires that cross going from that set of terminals to the last. It's important they're non-shorting switches because when the switch is flipped from one position to the other it would cause a short to the amp for a moment. Under a bit of power that could cause the amp to go into protect or worse damage it. Otherwise it's a super handy tool!

You forgot to google cancellation. Wiki knows more than you and that is uber sad. Feel free in your exuberance to try to explain differently though. There are many of us that are waiting to "learn" from you.

Almost time to put to eighteens in the trunk!

Does the H800 do anything else goofy? 3 seconds is a super long time for it to boot up. I blame it but can't say I have great ideas on what to check on it. Naturally I'd double check all my grounds, but eek

Makes more sense. Amps are turning on too fast. The minidsp delay circuit or another will solve it. Sucks the h800 doea that

I am against stating generalities in audio, but the most true one there is should give you some solace. 8ohm mids > 4ohm mids, nearly always.

Yikes, no thanks. Polarity switch on a DSP is a prerequisite for any install I am in doing.

That is a Pandora's box question. Not trivial to pull off by any means and if you don't pull it off right the net effect can easily be a worse response. The PA portion of the question makes it even worse as 90% of the drivers on the market will be bad for the question at hand, but of course there are exceptions that could work. If they are too it would require quite the tweeter install to mate nicely as well. Ignore the recommended rms lol. Much more important to model it and understand what it means. You do reference midbass so yes there are tradeoffs, but understand them don't assume them. This is definitely the first step before even thinking about a ported front stage.

I have t/a and have found that it's not really reliable to use a tape measure so I've been messing with it by ear. It helps a ton but I overall need more powerful frontstage drivers, they're almost at their limits on 50rms/ch x_x I'm all for two way instead, just really want something that can produce reputable midbass and stay clean in the upper range. Would a ported pa style 8 be what I'm looking for, or a ported mid in general?

Even if there is unless it is 100% on axis (I know it isn't) then it means 3 way which IMO is beyond the scope of what he should chew atm.

A 10" driver does not work as a mid in a car. No way, no how.

The a878's have zero place in car audio or audio for that matter. Complete and utter horseshit.

That was fast. What 6.5 and 3.5?

Maybe sharing what you want since you know it would help. Guarantee it isn't GRS...

I'd stay away from garbage speakers and extra crossovers especially when they are shitty. More drivers usually makes a worse speaker not a better one. GRS are chinese built crap. Don't bother. I've not seen a Dayton full range I'd run either. You need to decide where you want to install before what. You are shopping backwards again...

Don't expect full rangers to be loud either as that is NOT where they excel

Maria

But Seth, I want to work until I am 80.

Mustang!

Anyone a garage door guru? Door goes down about a 1' stops and goes back up. Sensors are fine. If I hit the button to stop it there and then restart it it will go down. It's on the wives door and has been doing it for three weeks. It's worse when it is cold. She's probably getting sick of me not fixing it. Not sure where to start. I double checked the sensors and am "sure" they are okay. Figure that the motor is feeling an extra load somehow but I am not sure where to check for binding. It feels pretty smooth if I detach the whole motor and just open and close it manually. Is slop in the chain or some adjustment on the springs to blame/help?

Dual spring I'm 90% sure. Will triple check in a few.

No lights blinking. When the sensors go bad it blinks.

My Gal would shut off if you had it in the reverse accessory but not the forward one. Need to just find which wires are hot when

First worry about your frequency response. Stage height is meh in comparison. Dial in the response and you'll stop caring where it is coming from.

3.5s will require a tweet if you can't get 100% on axis. And yes bass is cheap and easy....

Perhaps stated more clearly. In the past 20 years none of my vehicles have EVER had both tweets and both mids all be in electrical phase.

I know what phase is smartass I'm just saying in a car audio environment I don't see how running all your speakers out of phase is going to help anything. I'm almost positive he is getting no cancelation from speakers that are at different distances from his ears how could he.

What are you running in that M5 a house stereo? You got 5.1 Dolby surround in your Saab?