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Bernie cared about human beings. Trump might... I can't tell. Hillary, well I'm almost certain that she hates her fellow man.

Seriously??? WTF https://www.yahoo.com/celebrity/shes-very-popular-donald-trump-133008982.html We've got the dumbest bitch in the world running for the Dems and this idiot for the Republic. Fuck me. Where is an independent worth voting for.

I spy Evil mids.

Latest update, thank you Sean for sending me this.

Yes One thing has not changed...YOU ARE STILL HERE M5 MAKING LITTLE KIDS CRY!!! Man I totally forgot all about you...SSA and M5 used to go hand in hand back in the day and still do apparently... Price was mention in original post...(line 7) $1500 to $2500 USD....

Might I add that Arthur Clinton will be my right hand mechanic.

I'd build the box (or a mock) and figure out how much space I really have. I don't remember your propensity for tuning. Looking at all passive or is active possible? I also assume the budget includes the whole she-bang, ie box materials, deadening, wiring, along with the obvious amps/speakers/proc. Have you checked on any forums to see if your stock head unit has a non-processed output or a heavily fuxored one? Makes a big difference in proc choices...

Just a friendly reminder that Second Skin has created some custom sized product packs for USPS Flat Rate Box discounted shipping!!!! Same great American made products, shipped anywhere in the USA for the same great low prices!!! Check 'em out here http://store.secondskinaudio.com/united-states-boxes/ Always insist on high quality American made sound deadening products!!! Second Skin For The Win

One other thing. Sub and under 4" doesnt work. 1.5" for the box alone....

One thing hasnt changed. Center and rears are pointless. The other of course is we still need an idea of budget

Be careful with your ears! It is the only sense we have that is best the day we are born. Test bench in this case meant just hooking it up to a frequency source and an amplifier.

Any speaker can be connected directly to any amp/setup. Just could damage it really easily. ie, it would be possible to blow a tweeter with 1w at the wrong frequency. Really making sure you are only playing safe frequencies through it are 100% necessary. Keep the gain down (ie start at ZERO and turn up slowly) and only listen to frequencies that are 2x Fs or more and you will be fine. It can be safe much lower, but that requires more attention and will not be necessary to confirm there is a difference between the two. It will also isolate any install problems or buzz/hum.

Not saying I recommend you do that, but I personally would. Hell you need it out to send it in anyways.

Resonant frequency of the tweeter. I googled your set real quick and couldn't find it. Normally it is listed for raw drivers. Start at 3000Hz and you'll be fine even not knowing it. Go up from there. If it is the tweeter you'll hear a difference. If you don't it could be lower in frequency too, but the lower you go the quieter you need to play it to keep it safe.

Depends on where it is and your tolerance. In normal listening I surely don't want mine above 20', but you and I are probably different cats.

Indeed. I bought spare replacement F1 Status tweets brand new for $30/piece which when you realize the MSRP was $4000 for the set it shows what you are buying with name brand gear. They better honor the warranty...

It doesn't matter, just use what sounds best. That is the trouble with playing music in a cabin, it doesn't behave like it would in a free field environment. ...but yes when you flip the wires twice it is back to normal.

Everything is a compromise in car audio. Yay!

Used or new will work the same.

And the set is generic anyways. Meaning ie the crossover components weren't chosen for your speakers but any of the ones they could ship in that set. Single driver trade is no problem. No worse than it was brand new anyways.

No you misread what I said. They do not make custom crossovers for every driver. They should, but they should make the measurements to do so in your car. Obviously that isn't happening... As for the buzz, it is time for some closed cell foam. Put it in between anything that rattles. If you are going back into your doors though spending some time with some other deadening would be a real good idea

Depends on what you can find locally. 1/4" or so is fine. Just want something soft between buzzing points. For rattles any which way to apply it is fine. Glue, Velcro, Tape, just need it to be in between what buzzes. By deadener I meant CLD. Constrained Layer Damper which turns vibration energy in your panels into heat. Metal is your target, but if you are flopping plastic it can be a cure but there are plenty of other simple cures for that too. Go to Sound Deadener Showdown and read some install hints. Will expedite your learning WAY faster than any forum conversation.

Alpine stuff is all mass produced and "identical". Quotes due to manufacturing tolerances not making that completely possible. What I meant by buzz was that there are two spots rubbing/buzzing/making noise. You need to separate those with something soft. ie, CCF.

Any CCF is fine. Open cell holds water. What a manufacturer labels it has nothing to do with what problems it will solve

The answer is in the description of what it does. Can CLD help on plastic? Sure, but it is somewhat a waste of product.

Boo, Windows update raped my pc. Reflashed to August 2015. Gotta update some shit and re-image.

Just phone music. Currently running 128 which means I really have to limit my collection and that sucks.