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You watching the men's diving?

some volleyball players are hot. one on left, huge booty what sport or person are you referring to though? :] and well this, shes cute, but very fit you know

New IA amps up on the SSA Store: http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/categories/amplifiers/incriminator-audio.html

The 80prs will NOT do a 3 way active nor will it do a 2way with an 8" sub and 3" mid. Going to need different processing if you want to go that route.

The sole goal of a full range is to have it play as much of the frequency range as possible. This allows a driver like the SLS referenced above which can almost play to 300Hz nice, anything above and you don't want it. What can be recommended depends on budget, goals, capability and the like. An ideal processor is a computer, but that'll take a lot of know how to yield a good sounding setup out of it. Once you are in the realm of a 3 way you need a stand alone proc of some sort that isn't limited. New ones on the market are limited and expensive so I'd lean on used for that.

You should buy something passive. What you have won't do really anything and based on you posting it there is no way that a 3 way active is a good idea.

you feel this way because of my current head unit? explain why? I realize my current head unit will not work. By posting specs on a head unit that has absolutely no active capabilities whatsoever and asking about it clarifies the fact that you aren't ready for a 3 way. In fact you should expect that a 2 way will sound WORSE than a passive for at least 6 months of tinkering. A 3 way will be a complete and utter mess. It is far from trivial.

It is only hard to learn when the student chooses to not try. Frustration shows you are starting to try, it is a good sign. Do NOT build a door pod for the SLS and a 3" FR. That won't work. If the 3"ers are not 100% on axis you will need a tweeter meaning you are back to a 3 way. That you aren't ready for. At the same time I would avoid using the SLS completely at the moment as integration is going to create so many compromises it will seriously jack your learning curve. Personally I also wouldn't run that Clarion. The 80prs kills it for actual adjustments and learning. On top of that the crossovers that it "can" do even when used flipping the mid/sub are FAR from ideal for what you propose. What you should do is run your current set active and determine what about the sound you don't like. From there it will be very easy to look at your mounting locations and come up with a solution. Starting with the SLS has fail written all over it.

Any tuning experience? Heard any drivers you like?

Even at the same price I'd buy the PPI over the 800.4. If this is your first active setup, I'd spend less on the drivers as the learning experience can create both blown speakers and an enlightening experience that makes it difficult to like whatever you bought. I'd also recommend that you buy something simple and forgiving to integrate. A set of local CL used component set with paper mids and silk tweets would be a great start. Use them, determine what you like and don't and then upgrade. Nothing will "keep up" with your subs. Cone area isn't something you can overcome. That being said you can still have something that sounds great with an 6-7" mid but just don't expect monster midbass.

Yes, but that isn't at all why I answered what I answered. As long as there is reasonable build quality in an amp, an amp is an amp. If there is no overheating problem or ultra reliance on stable voltage then a smaller one will always win for me. I have three of the PPI variant (Polk actually) amps in my boat and I trash the living crap out of them. No reason not to buy if they have the power you "need"

Seriously though on the FT1. Anyone who is running one has zero idea about audio. Remember that as you read build threads. Even worse when they run multiples.

The same amp is made by PPI, Hertz, Polk Audio, NVX and someone I am forgetting. All variants are basically identical. I dislike them not for an amp. If you read above I am pretty clear about an amp being an amp

Start with anything used and play. Nothing will help you decide really whatvto buy more. IMO the 900.4 is a much bettervsolution than the 800.4.

3 way and passive = BOOO. If the Mbass goes in the door and the mid/tweet in the kicks okay, but anything else it is fucking pointless.

Never heard a set I'd buy. I too would tend to agree with the above. Not the cheapest, but not all that much more. If NVX released a set it may be interesting.

...they don't have a 3 way though, yet

SB Acoustics is who they are copying. Noting them their copy will include the build house, perhaps even licensed perhaps not.

As everything Jon, this really comes down to install. WAY more so than a 2 way,. If he wants a 3 you should discuss that effort, and then let him talk his way in and out of what it is.

If I saw an 8 that required that much space I'd shop for a larger diameter driver. Single ported 8's rarely make sense though from a space/output perspective.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8604 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html Would it makes sense to still go with the ppi900.4 if he will be using the crossover features from his Pioneer 80PRS head unit, could he just save some bucks and run the Pioneer GM-D8604 above? Sometime around the mid-90's Pioneer lost me permanently on their amps. Doesn't mean anything though, but the sour taste in my mouth still exists. Compounded by being hard to recommend an amp that I personally have no experience with. I haven't actually used a PPI 900.4 either, but have 3 of the Polk versions of exactly the same amp. And personally, I'd never use ANY crossover on an amplifier. Makes tuning a complete fuckshow. The exception of course being an SSF as unless you have an offboard proc you are almost reduced to having no choice. So, Pio might be fine. Long term resale I'd doubt in comparison though. To me cost is always buying price - selling price which I'd bet wins for the PPI. In particular if a used copy were purchased.

Volume on the 80prs is completely dependent on your amplifier, not the headunit. Exactly why there is gain setting. Personally I'd set it up so that at 62 it is seriously clipped on a 0dB recording. Won't be a "safe" setting but you have ears so using them is a good idea.

It isn't the sub, but your goals that don't work with a sealed enclosure. Either your desires or expectations need to change for it to be a match.