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I used the four major brands from O'Reilly's to remove this crap. The Tarminator worked like a sand blaster getting this stuff loose. Everything else just turned it into a slimy goo. Two trash bags of rags later and I have made some descent progress.

Nice box wish I had better wood working tools but I spent all my funds on steel working tools are car detailing tools.

Glad you got that sorted.

Charged the instant I wasn't fishing with a good charger/conditioner....assuming you trust the Ranger ones. Was in a 4 year old Ranger 521vx Comanche. As for last, I can see that some people would use them longer. Mine would still hold a charge, but I lost significant speed and charge holding capability. Considering I live on Lake Minnetonka and regularly have large amounts of water to pound through and windy/wavy conditions it sucked when the trolling motor lost it's mojo. By the end of the year it was no where near 109lbs anymore and responded like my buddies 80lb trolling motor.

The amount of garbage in the interface on the Samsung gets removed completely by rooting. Sort of like taking a Windows disk and installing it yourself, versus getting 800 extra programs installed that changes windows completely with some other branded computer.

I personally would never buy a used battery. Would have to be a monster deal. Of course, I look at these from the fishing world. Used to have 3 in my boat just for the trolling motor and when used 8 hours a day the batteries were shot no matter what after a year. I should add the day is only in the summer here as I do live in the Great White North. That being said, if they are truly almost new and half price you should be guaranteed half the life. Anymore than half and I'd just buy a new one.

I would move LG after stock. Feels the closest to it to me. I came off a nexus and hardly noticed a difference although I had an s6 for 2 weeks in between and it drove me nuts

yes sir i can do that, automotive finish, price will go up due to more labor and materials. but i can do it. check out the link below to see more of my work and message me on facebook if interested. https://www.facebook.com/JeffsCustomCarAudio/?fref=ts

I was just goofin bro. I think every window came out of White Lighting at one time or another to fix rattles. A good cleaning and fresh urethane (think that's how it's spelled) always seemed to work. Good luck.

Is it detachable face? I had an issue a few years back where I didn't for some reason get a good connection when I snapped the face in and it felt locked in but the radio would shut off and back on randomly too.

Think of this thread as the IHOP's new born son, a fresh start

wtf, don't make two threads for the same topic.

Huh? You have an Icon & an RD and have a box but aren't using it? What's the question?

You need a crossover that matches the impedance of whatever final load you have. I don't mean whatever final load you theoretically have but what you actually have. And using 4 super tweeters is asinine. I suppose you'll tell us you have 32 mids to blend with them too. They aren't called super since the sound super btw.

Interesting comment considering you run a pair and had a lot to offer. Everyone always laughs at the guy with 64 Dayton Neo tweets on his dash, but balance wise a pair of those is similar in output. The Dayton's will sound better thugh.

If I had to order coffee, I do it from Intelligentsia in Chicago

You are balancing an act of dealing with interference both constructive and deconstructive in a car. In general minimizing this should be the first goal as they will wreak havoc on your frequency response. Of course like anything in a car it is a compromise. Reflecting has a longer path length which is another thing you want to maximize in order to make the L/R as similar as possible. That being said in general it is still a terrible idea to fire off the windshield. Comparing an install where this question even comes up to one owned by someone with an ear for seriously tuning parametric equalizers and really dealing with the anomalies correctly is not a good idea. Sure competitors can do this and in some classes based on the rules might even be logical but the disadvantages outweigh the advantages and in general there are much better ways to achieve great sound. So yes, if you aren't willing to spend hours tuning and have both the gear and ear to do so then I'd avoid firing it at the glass. Reflections are a serious bitch. Have you ever seen a home audio system reflecting off anything? Serious listening rooms put traps and all sorts of things to block as many reflections as possible for this exact reason. Sure you may gain some staging but at the cost of frequency response. That compromise is not one I would ever recommend.

I'm a it depends on the car, the budget and the goals guy. In a perfect world I wouldn't even run tweeters in a car. Of course atm my system is absolutely stock, although it would still score better than many of the SQ competitors lol. It is critical though to pick your mounting locations before picking drivers. Different drivers are better at different things. That being said if we knew more about your install it would help us help you more.

Won't matter where you put your fronts if you are putting those in the rears. Just put them where it's easy. Either you are choosing not to notice or you don't.

Sums it up well, but basically they are the ONLY option for getting really loud and not sounding like shit. Of course without someone who can tune them they can still sound like shit.

Ported 12" takes some crafting and a small (cheap) lift or glass work. Sealed 12 is easy. ie, 2 cuft is available without trying super hard.

A pair of 12's won't fit sealed...unless a seriously cramped box is okay or a huge seat lift is used. Even 2cuft gross is not trivial although another cuft can be found with clever use of fiberglass.

Yes. 99.99% of Bandpass boxes are utilized for ALL the wrong reasons. The Type R is a poop cannon compared to the w6.

Only at forums filled with dipshits.

And 99 out of 100 times listeners pick the louder one on the board, not the better. Classic snake oil sales man trick is to play the more spendy units louder. For clarity in case anyone else reads this thread. If ANYONE does a comparison with the DD-1 take it as a subjective test. That piece of gear is useless and anyone who trusts it is equally as useless when it comes to reviewing gear.

I'd like to see Audio Precision test the DD-1. Just to see if the algorithm it uses works properly. It doesn't. Designer came on here. Wasn't the intent of the product.

Stock stereo grounds are usually crap. I always pull a fresh one. As Impious said, it's almost always a ground issue so make them all your own.

indeed but it isn't a good sign either when someone is concerned about wattage to greater than 50% accuracy for music

Ex PG guys IIRC. Huge boneriffic following on wakeboard boat sites like the Malibucrew. Unbelievable moronic reasoning too. Absolutely laughable. Like other boat manufacturers they make HLCD's that are capable of some output. Even more overpriced than there other stuff though. And yep, nothing special.

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/ported-single-15-subwoofer-enclosure.html

It will sound worse than just running the 2 way you have. The whole benefit of having a 3 way is getting to use a single driver optimized for the great majority of the musical range without giving up midbass or top end sparkle. You will gain non of that. The two most important steps in deciding on a logical 3 way setup are 1) driver choice and 2) setting up the crossover appropriately. The 2nd one either requires some serious savvy in making passive crossovers after measuring your speakers in place or a flexible processor with the capability of providing the crossover portion electronically.